Germany’s North Sea shoreline and the seven sandy islands strung like pearls a few kilometers off its coast conceal some of the most rewarding—and oft-overlooked—natural and cultural wonders of western Germany. The flat landscape of the mainland that unfolds into the North Sea is dotted with windmills, clusters of idle cows, and asymmetrical clouds—a stunning visual wonder that throws into sharp relief the neighboring bustle of river valleys and modern skylines. The seafaring Frisians, whose dialect is a close linguistic relative to English, treasure their strong tea, which is customarily served in elaborate porcelain sets over sugar candies called Kluntje, and is often spiked. A traditional tea ceremony may be filling (it’s impolite to drink fewer than three cups), but there’s always room for the region’s culinary delicacies. Try some Ostfriesische Rosinenstütten, a sweet raisin loaf on display in every bakery, or the unforgettable Bohnensuppe (literally, bean soup), which has nothing to do with beans, and is in fact a sweet delight made with raisins, brandy, and sugar. Though buses and trains in the area are often inconvenient, miles of unspoiled and uncrowded beaches, green fields, and rolling dunes compensate for the planning required. Travel to Baltrum and Norderney is relatively manageable, while buses to Borkum are still infrequent.
Twice daily, tides rush out of the Wattenmeer National Park, laying kilometers of the ocean floor completely exposed. The Frisian Islands make up one component of a much large, and ecologically diverse ...more
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