Bolzano (Bozen) Restaurants

For a full smorgasbord of Bolzano’s hybrid cuisine, start with a bowl of rindgulasch (beef stew); then try wurst (spicy sausage), speck (smoked bacon that tops pizzas and breads across mainland Italy), and Hearty knödel (dumplings). For dessert, chose from three types of flaky strudel: apfel (apple), topfen (soft cheese), and mohn (poppyseed). An all-day market in P. delle Erbe and along V. della Roggia has sold fine produce, cheese, baked goods, and meats since 1295. (Open M-F 7am-7pm, Sa 7am-1pm.) A Despar supermarket, is on the corner of V. della Rena. (☎0471 97 07 46. Open M-F 8:15am-7:15pm, Sa 8am-6pm.)

• Hopfen & Co., P. delle Erbe 17 (☎0471 30 07 88, www.boznerbier.it). Housed in an 800-year-old building. No-frills pub, perfect for beer lovers and carnivores. Hearty Bavarian menu. At night, a young clientele spills out onto the street, gathering in nearby vacated vendor stands. Beer from €1.90-4.50. Specialty plates for 2 (€12-23) leave customers satisfied. Cover €1. Open M-Sa 9:30am-1am. MC/V.
• Exil Lounge, P. del Grano 2 (☎0471 97 18 14). To the wurst -intolerant traveler’s delight, this colorful cafe in the heart of town offers a diverse selection of healthy salads and sandwiches. Perfect lunch treats include baguettes with grilled vegetables, mozzarella, and pesto as well as yogurt bowls with granola and seasonal fruit. Extensive tea, wine, and drink list. Open M-W 10am-midnight, Th-Sa 10am-1am. Cash only.
• Lowengrube, P. Dogana 3 (☎0471 97 68 48). The name of this Bolzano favorite, which opened in 1543, translates from German to “the place of the lion.” Cheerful Austrian decor surrounds crowds of locals who attest to its popularity as a lunch spot. Primi €6.50-8.50. Secondi €12-19.50. Beer €1.60. Open daily 8am-1am. MC/V.
• Hostaria Argentieri, V. Argentieri 14 (☎0471 98 17 18). Flower-lined patio and quiet, candlelit tables provide a romantic evening at this upscale fish restaurant. Customers choose from a limited but tasty, handwritten menu. Primi €3.50-10. Secondi €7.50-30. Cover €1.50. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Trattoria Bar Nadamas, P. delle Erbe 44. What little nightlife Bolzano has to offer is centered around P. delle Erbe, mostly due to its cheap drinks. A slightly more mature crowd of locals and tourists fill the spacious, wood-furnished interior before gathering outside, drinks in hand. At lunch, enjoy bruschetta (€4.70), salads (€4-10.50) and a wide selection of antipasti (€4-8.20). Glasses of wine and beer from €1. Open M-Sa 9am-1am. Kitchen open noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm.