With a port packed with impressive yachts and sailboats, Paimpol (pem-pohl; pop. 8300) has made a visible transition from fishing village to seaside vacation spot. Though it offers few sights of its own, the town provides easy access to the beautiful islands, cliffs, beaches, and hiking trails on this stretch of French coast. Meanwhile, its seafood, crêperies, regional specialty shops, and surprisingly vibrant nightlife give it a festive atmosphere with strong Breton flavor.
The market throughout the vieille ville provides picnic supplies (Tu morning), as does the Marché Plus supermarket, 11 rue St-Vincent, left at the roundabout from the train station. (Open M-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 9am-1pm.) Find seafood along quai Morand and crêperies along rue des Huit Patriotes.
Abbaye De Beauport. The ruins of this abbey lie hidden from the road under layers of vegetation. Built in 1202, the abbey has found new charm in its disrepair; grass and flowers sprout from its flying buttresses. The multilingual book-guided tour is included with admission, gives a complete account of the abbey’s history, and describes each of the structure’s sections in detail. During the summer, the abbey puts on an award-winning light show, which illuminates the ruins. (Chemin de l’Abbaye, 30min. from Paimpol. Follow directions to the campground but continue past rue de Cruckin to the next major left turn; the abbey is at the end of the lane. ☎02 96 55 18 54; www.abbaye-beauport.com. Open daily from mid-June to mid-Sept. 10am-7pm; from mid-Sept. to mid-June 10am-noon and 2-5pm. Last entry 30min. before close. 4-6 tours in French per day. Light show July-Aug. W and Su 10pm-1am. Tours Apr.-Aug. €5, students €4, ages 11-18 €3, ages 5-10 €2; Sept.-Mar. €4.50/4/2/1. Light show €8, ages 5-18 €4.)
Every other year in early August (next in 2009), the Fête du Chant de Marin (Festival of Sailors’ Songs) draws sailor-musicians for three days of dancing, boating, and general merriment. (☎02 96 55 12 77; www.paimpol-festival.com.) Paimpol is small, but it knows how to party. As the sun sets, crowds head to bars on side streets off the port, or to quai de Kernoa on the waterfront.
To get to Pointe de L’Arcouest, take a Tibus bus (☎02 96 20 94 58) from Paimpol (15min.; M-Sa 6 per day, Su 2 per day, more July-Aug.; €2). Drivers follow clearly marked GR34. Les Vedettes de Bréhat (☎02 96 55 79 50; www.vedettesdebrehat.com) runs boats to Île de Bréhat (10min.; 5-16 per day; round-trip €8.50, ages 4-11 €7, with bike €15 more). For a few extra euro, take a 45min. circuit of the island from the sea (€13, ages 4-11 €9.50). For a taxi, call Taxi Les Alizes at Pointe de l’Arcouest (☎02 96 20 49 76).
Six kilometers north of Paimpol, the peninsula ends in a tumble of pink granite called the Pointe de l’Arcouest. While the cape itself is a worthy destination, it usually serves as a jumping-off point for the Île de Bréhat. The surrounding blue-green waters offer some of France’s best kayaking; the Centre Nautique de Loguivy-de-la-Mer, 5km from the Pointe, rents kayaks and catamarans. (☎02 96 20 94 58; www.voile-kayak-mer.com. Kayak rental with guide €30 per ½-day, €49 per day. Catamarans €40 per 2hr. Open M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-5:30pm.)
Two kilometers out at sea lies the Île de Bréhat—a mesh of rocky pink beaches, small tracts of farmland, flower-draped cottages, and fields of elbow-high grass. The Île de Bréhat is actually the largest landmass in an archipelago of 96 islets, some of them so minute that they amount essentially to single rocks. Only 3.5km in length, Bréhat (bray-hah) is divided in the center by a small bridge. The southern half contains the bourg (town center) and the port, while the rugged northern half is mostly farmland, with a few scattered houses and the island’s two lighthouses. To get the most out of your visit, take an early boat, then head north to avoid the crowds. Plan to take at least half a day to see the island; the trip from Paimpol to the island takes about 45min., and the island itself deserves at least 3hr. of exploration.
Follow signs from the bourg to the tiny, orange-roofed Chapelle Saint-Michel. Perched on a hilltop on the west side of the island, the chapel offers a marvelous view of the island’s green fields and rock-speckled bay. The natural beauty of this panorama is only matched by the eroded pink granite rock piles at the island’s northern tip, where the Phare du Paon lighthouse sits. According to legend, when unwed women throw a pebble between the rocks, the number of bounces indicates the years that they must wait until marriage. The lighthouse and its scenic surroundings are worth the 40-50min. walk from the bourg.
To reach the tourist office —the Syndicat d’Initiative—follow the main road to the main square; the office is on the right. The staff sells a map (€0.20) of the island with six suggested paths. (☎02 96 20 04 15; syndicatinitiative.brehat@wanadoo.fr. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-4:15pm, Su 10am-1pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June M-Tu and Th-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-4:15pm, Su 10am-1pm; Nov.-Mar. M and Th 10am-1pm and 2-4:15pm, Sa 10am-1pm. Public toilets next door are free. The best way to tackle the island is by foot or bicycle; paths to major sights are clearly marked. Of the many options for bike rental, the closest to the port lies at the end of the walkway leading to the boats, marked by the sign “Vélos à Louer.” (€6 per 2hr., €10 per 5hr., €15 per day; under 18 €5/8/13. Helmets included. Open Apr.-Sept. daily 9am-6pm, depending on ferry schedules. MC/V.) In the bourg , you can find similarly overpriced restaurants and a 8 à Huit supermarket. (Open M-Sa 9am-8pm, Su 9am-6pm.) The island’s cafes primarily sell crêpes, sandwiches, ice cream, and frites.
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