Perugia Restaurants

No visit to Perugia is complete without a taste of the world-famous chocolate at Perugina, C. Vannucci 101. (Open M 2:30-7:45pm, Tu-Sa 9:30am-7:45pm, Su and holidays 10:30am-1:30pm and 3-8pm.) While you’re at it, try the torta di formaggio (cheese torte) or mele al cartoccio (apple pie) at sweet-smelling Ceccarani, P. Matteotti 16. (☎075 57 21 960. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm, Su 9am-1:30pm.) Check out the covered market in P. Matteotti. Entrance is below street level, to the right of the post office off Via Baglioni. (Open M-Sa 7am-7:30pm.) The Italian chain, Coop, P. Matteotti 15, stocks essentials. (Open M-Sa 9am-8pm. MC/V/AmEx.) Complement meals with one of the region’s native wines: Sagrantino Secco, a dry red, or Grechetto, a light white.

Il Porchetto, P. Matteotti Somewhere between a hole-in-the-wall and a food cart, this distinctly pre-war, semi-permanent green kiosk appended to the front of the post office is a simple affair. They have a pig; you want a pig sandwich. They slice a chunk off whatever part of the pig happens to be up next for slicing and stick it on a roll. You give them €2.50. Done and done. A Porchetto sandwich carved straight from the pig is a Perugian standby, and you'll see them available at festivals and markets elsewhere in town. This particular kiosk, however, has been servin' 'em up since 1921. Get a bottle of beer (in a plastic cup, per local regulation) along with your hearty sandwich, and you have a swell takeout dinner. In front of the post office. Porchetto €2.50. Bottle of beer €2-3. Open 7pm-late, depending on business. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
Trattoria Dal Mi' Cocco, V. Garibaldi 12 (☎075 57 32 511), In the outskirts of the centro toward the university, this extremely popular small restaurant offers only a prix-fixe menu. That means, what they're offering is the only thing they're cooking today—you'll never order wrong here. Count on a meal that includes an antipasto, a primo, a secondo, bread, a dessert, and a liqueur. Reservations recommended, particularly when school's in session. Leave the city walls at Arco Etrusco, and continue north on V. Garibaldi. It's on the left, a bit easy to miss. Open Tu-Su 11am-2pm and 8:15-10pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
La Lanterna, V. Rocchi 6 (☎075 57 26 397), Three large, wildly different dining spaces fill this popular restaurant. The main indoor dining room is brick-lined, with high, vaulted ceilings and copper pans on the wall. Sit on the outdoor seating in P. Danti if you want to sacrifice character for excellent people-watching. Around the corner, an Oriental garden is lined with colored sheets to create a watery light. Behind the Duomo, off P. Danti. Garden is a bit downhill and around the corner. Cover €2. Open in summer daily 12:30-2:30pm and 7:30-10:30pm; in fall, winter, and spring W-Su 12:30-2:30pm and 7:30-10:30pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
La Tana dell'Orso, V. Ulissa Rocchi 32 (☎075 57 29 536; www.latanadellorso.com), This restaurant is a favorite of the study-abroad crowd—some students report getting special rates for being regulars. The menu is not extensive, but the kitchen is open late. Plus, there's free Wi-Fi. Avoid the overpriced hamburgers—no matter how homesick you are, a meat patty is not worth €11. From P. Danti, take V. Rocchi; it's on the left . Entrees €6-11. Open daily 11:30am-3am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.