Perugia Nightlife

There are tons of lovely bars in this student town, many tucked away down small alleys or under covered streets. The heart of the nightlife is Piazza IV Novembre—Italians just can't resist boozing it up on the steps of their Duomo. No glass bottles are permitted here, but local establishments pour out drinks into clear plastic cups. No one seems to mind, though all those cups make a nice crunch-crunch underfoot at the end of the night.

• Il Birraio, V. delle Prome 18 (☎075 57 23 920; www.ilbirraio.net), This partially underground bar has an Arabian Nights, hookah-lounge feel, while offering microbrews and artisan beers. At the entrance, you ascend past giant copper brewing things to enter the airy, pastel upper level with dozens of painted wooden stools along a friendly blue bar. Downstairs is dominated by floor cushions and low tables. Il Birraio is enormous and will probably be deserted in the summer when there are good outdoor bar options—its small outdoor provides a nice view but lacks the interior's atmosphere—but come early to snag a pile of pillows when the weather drives the nightlife indoors. Follow signs to Porta Sole. Beer €3-5. 1L Sangria €10. Open Tu-Sa 11am-2am, Su 11:30am-2am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• La Terrazza, Mercato Coperto Under the covered archway off of P. Matteotti and past the flea-market stalls is a large, bustling outdoor pub with an incredible 270º panoramic view of Perugia. Try a rum e pere shot—that's rum and a chaser of pear juice. Recommended drinking method is to swish the pear juice around and coat your mouth before shooting the rum. V. del Mercato, accessed from P. Matteotti. Open M-F 11am-2am, Sa 11am-2:30am, Su 11am-2am. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Elfo's Pub, V. Sant'Agata 20 (☎347 078 5981), Crowded in a pleasant way, Elfo's Pub is the only establishment on a small, steep side street which becomes an extension of the bar itself in the later hours. This is a pretty good version of the whole Irish pub thing. Elfo's is known for hosting jam sessions throughout the year, and it's an unofficial satellite of the Umbria Jazz Festival. During the festival, late-night shows start every evening shortly after the finish of whomever was playing the Arena. Being an Elfo's barfly is one of the best ways to take in some serious free jazz and hang with musicians instead of partiers. From C. Vannucci take V. Priori, which splits the Palazzo dei Priori, downhill. 2nd left, more downhill. Shots €3-4. Beer pints €5-6. Open M-Sa 8pm-2:30am. Closed in late Aug. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Caffe Morlacchi, P. Morlacchi 8 (☎075 57 21 760), Comfortable and spacious, this cafe across the street from Teatro Morlacchi gets a before- and after-theater crowd—to drive it home, out front they have, not a bench, but a row of wooden theater seats. Inside is quirky and friendly, with anthropomorphized decorations like terra-cotta flowerpots with scary, scary troll eyes. Downhill from P. IV Novembre, past P. Cavalliotti. Espresso €0.80. Bottled beer €4-5. Open M-Sa 8am-1am. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.