Rocca Albornoziana And Ponte Delle Torri. The Rocca, a papal fortress up V. Saffi from P. del Duomo, was a high-security prison until 1982. During WWII, 94 Italian and Slovenian prisoners staged an escape to join partisans in the Umbrian hills. The complex’s only drama now is in the restored 15th-century frescoes of the Camera Pinta. (☎0743 46 434. Museum open Tu-W and Su 9am-1:30pm, Th-Sa 9am-7:30pm. €6, ages 18-25 €3, under 18 and over 65 free. Rocca open M 10am-6pm, Tu-W and Su 9am-6pm, Th-Sa 9am-3:30pm. €6, ages 15-25 and over 60 €5, ages 7-14 €2.50, under 6 free. Combined ticket €7.50/6.50/3.50/free. Tower €2. Guided tours in Italian offered Sa-Su 11am and 3pm; call to reserve.) On the far side of the Rocca is the massive Ponte delle Torri, a stunning 14th-century engineering feat on an ancient Roman aqueduct. Ten 80m arches support the bridge, and the view across the Tessino Gorge is riveting. Several hikes start at the end of the bridge. (Free.)
Monteluco. The 800m trail along Spoleto’s steep “mountain of the sacred grove” begins across Ponte delle Torri and winds through a canopied forest, passing abandoned mountain shrines and the churches of San Giuliano and San Pietro. At the peak of Monteluco, you’ll find hotel-restaurants, a flat grassy picnic-ready clearing, and the tiny, 13th-century Santuario di San Francesco di Monteluco, once the refuge of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Bernadine of Siena. (Open 9am-noon and 3-6pm. Free.) Rain can turn the path into a rocky stream; to avoid slippery terrain, it’s best to hike there on a sunny day or take a bus. Wear proper footwear and get a trail map from the tourist office before leaving.
Duomo. Spoleto’s Romanesque cathedral was built in the 12th century and later expanded by a 1491 portico and 17th-century interior redecoration. Inside, brilliantly colored scenes by Fra Filippo Lippi fill the domed apse, such as The Coronation in the half-dome of the main apse and a nativity scene on the lower right side. The 15th-century Cappella dell’Assunta is covered in eroding frescoes, while the more lavish 17th-century Cappella della Santa Icone stands to the right of the main apse. Lorenzo dei Medici commissioned Lippi’s tomb, which was decorated by the artist’s son, Filippino, and is now in the right transept. The soaring campanile features a mixture of styles and materials: stone blocks, fragments of inscriptions, friezes, and other remnants of the Roman era combine to form this structure. (Down the steps from Casa Romana. Open daily 8:30am-12:30pm and 3:30-7pm. No visits during Mass M-Sa 9am and 6pm; Su 9, 11:30am, 6pm.)
Casa Romana. This small AD first-century Roman house, once home to Emperor Vespasian’s mother Vespasia Polla, features well-preserved mosaic floors and other artifacts. (V. di Visiale 9. Beneath city hall. From P. del Duomo, take stairs opposite duomo entrance, then take a right and follow the yellow sign. ☎0743 23 42 50. Open daily Mar. 16-Oct. 14 10am-8pm; Oct. 15-Mar. 15 daily 10am-6pm. €2.50, ages 15-25 and over 65 €2, ages 7-14 €1; with Museum of Modern Art and Pinacoteca €6/4/1.50, valid for 3 days.)
Chiesa Di Sant’Ansano And Cripta Di San Isaaco. Built on the ruins of a Roman temple dating to the first century BC, Sant’Ansano has a Renaissance facade and interior. Haunting frescoes detail scenes from the life of St. Isaac, who lives in an AD sixth-century sarcophagus at the center of the room. (Heading away from P. Mercato on V. dell’Arco di Druso, the church is on the left hand corner. ☎0743 40 305. Open daily Apr.-Oct. 9am-noon and 3-7pm; Nov.-Mar. 9am-noon and 3-6pm.)
Museum Of Modern Art. A refreshing alternative to ancient ruins and holy frescoes, this collection includes early works by Moore, Consagra, Pomodoro, and Leoncillo. The museum’s first room is dedicated to American artist Alexander Calder, whose Teodelapio now stands in Spoleto’s P. della Stazione. (Follow V. Mercato as it turns into V. Giovane, and go downstairs; the museum lies straight ahead. ☎0743 46 434. Open Mar. 16-Oct. 14 daily 10:30am-1pm and 3:30-7pm; Oct. 15-Mar. 15 M and W-Su 10:30am-1pm and 3-5:30pm. €4, ages 15-25 and over 65 €3, ages 7-14 €1.50.)
Other Roman Ruins. Spoleto’s ruins, a testament to the city’s prominence in Roman times, are found mainly near P. della Libertà. Take V. S. Agata from the piazza to reach the entrance of the Museo Archeologico Statale, which houses a small collection of Roman artifacts found in the area. Admission includes the opportunity to explore the Roman Theater, which hosts concerts and plays during the summer festival. (☎0743 22 32 77. Open daily 8:30am-7:30pm. €4, EU citizens ages 18-25 €2, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free.) The Arco Romano, at the top of V. Monterone, once marked the town’s entrance. Off P. Fontana, the Arco di Druso commemorates Emperor Druscu’s military triumphs. Though closed to the public, the amphitheater stands just beyond the Roman walls.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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