Because of its remote location and lack of publicity, Parque Internacional La Amistad remains one of the best-kept secrets of Costa Rican ecotourism. Offering gorgeous vistas and stunning scenic variety, the park borders the southern edge of the Cordillera de Talamanca, which stretches well into Panama. This frontier-crossing accounts for the park’s name, which refers to the friendship between Costa Rica and Panama. La Amistad’s colossal size (199,147 hectares) and mountainous terrain make the majority of the area fairly inaccessible. In 1983, Amistad was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The government is wary of the dangers of its increasing popularity. Its priority is protecting the park, not promoting it.
The easiest place to begin exploring La Amistad is the Puesto Altamira entrance point. Altamira is most readily accessible from Buenos Aires via Las Tablas, or from San Vito via Las Tablas. The park is not really a feasible daytrip with public transportation, so plan on staying overnight at Altamira.
To get to Puesto Altamira, you must first travel through Las Tablas and the small town of Altamira. Departing from San Vito, head to the TRACOPA station and take any bus headed for San José or San Isidro and get off at Las Tablas (45min.; 5, 6:45, 7:30, 10am, 1:30, 3pm; ¢1200). Another option is to take the GAFESO bus from San Isidro to Buenos Aires and then switch to a bus for Las Tablas (1½hr.; noon and 4pm, ¢850). From Las Tablas, buses run directly to Altamira (45min.; 2 and 5pm, ¢900).
Estación Biológica Altamira is well-equipped with bathrooms, potable water, 24hr. electrical outlets, and a picnic area. There are tents with beds set up. Bring your own food or restock in the town of Altamira, 2km down the hill. Even in the dry season, reservations are usually unnecessary, though visitors should call ahead to the station. (☎2200 5355 or 2200 5675. Open M-F 8am-4pm. US$6 per person.) Campground facilities also available at the base of Cerro Kámuk with potable water and toilets (US$5).
If you think the views from the station are gorgeous, just wait until you get on the trails. It’s important to note that some trails are more difficult to follow than others, and some become impassable in the rainy season. Sendero Gigantes del Bosque is the only trail for solo hikers, as guides must accompany visitors on all other trails. Park rangers can arrange a guide from a group of 30 locals who have undergone extensive training from the park for ¢5000 per person.
Sendero Gigantes Del Bosque. The Sendero Gigantes del Bosque, named for its towering 40m trees, is a well-marked 3km stroll through primary and secondary forest and the only hike possible without a guide. The trail generally hovers around 1300m and never reaches more than 1500m. At the end of the trail, the birdwatching observatory on the border of the primary forest is a great place to spot feathers early in the morning. The hike out to the observatory and back takes about 2hr., and along the way you’ll see strangler figs, numerous species of butterflies, and maybe even a toucan or a quetzal. Wear long pants; the grass is scratchy and hip-deep on the second half of the route.
Sendero Valle Del Silencio. This hike is an 8hr. 20km round-trip journey through the “Valley of Silence.” This beauty is the best-known and most highly recommended trail in La Amistad. Hikers attest to the cloud forest’s eerie tranquility, claiming even the nearby rivers are silent. As the trail climbs, unique páramo ecosystems dominate the land above 2700m, where trees are stunted by the high elevation and the panoramic view becomes unobstructed. Guides are required for visitors wishing to undertake this hike. Call ahead. (¢5000 per person. Discounts available for large groups.)
Sendero Altamura-Sabanas Esperanzas. This trail takes you past an indigenous cemetery to natural savannahs that are 1808m above sea level and have dizzying views of the towns below. Keep an eye out for the birds, including quetzals. To reach the trail, turn left at the fork in the road next to the church in Altamira. This road leads to the town of Biolley (5km), which has a ranger station where you can get directions to the trailhead. A guide is required.
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