Parque Nacional Cahuita Overview

Parque Nacional Cahuita’s claim to fame is its spectacular 600-hectare coral reef. Though the vast majority of the park is underwater, most visitors come to lounge on the white sands of Playa Blanca or hike through the seaside jungle, which is home to sloths, monkeys, vipers, and other creatures.

Transportation

Cahuita is the gateway town for Parque Nacional Cahuita. The Kelly Creek park entrance is in the town of Cahuita, and the Puerto Vargas entrance is 6km south of Cahuita on the bus route toward Puerto Viejo. See Transportation for transportation to and from Cahuita.

Orientation

Parque Nacional Cahuita lies on the south end of the Atlantic coast in the province of Limón. The park has two ranger stations accessible from Cahuita. The southeast end of the main road takes you over a bridge to the Kelly Creek Ranger Station, which is used by most visitors. Puerto Vargas, the second station, is off the main highway between Puerto Viejo and Limón. To enter the park through the Puerto Vargas ranger station, take the Puerto Viejo de Talamanca bus in Cahuita and ask to be dropped at the Puerto Vargas entrada (entrance).

Practical Information

If you enter through the Kelly Creek Ranger Station, you must register in their logbook. No admission fee is required, but they ask for a voluntary donation; most visitors leave about ¢1000. (Station open daily 6am-5pm; last entry 4pm.) A standard US$10 national park admission fee is required if you enter from the Puerto Vargas Station. (☎2755 0461, 2755 0302, or 2755 0060; aclac@ns.minae.go.cr. Open daily 6am-5pm, last entry 4pm.)

Hiking

An easy 9km (2hr.) Rainforest Trail leads from the Kelly Creek Station in Cahuita to Punta Cahuita for 4km and continues 3km until it reaches Puerto Vargas. The hike finishes 2km past the station along the main highway, where you can catch a bus back to Cahuita (6km, every hr. 6am-7pm, ¢250). The trail often seems more like a narrow road than a path, with bikers riding through and local mothers pushing strollers. Because the path is close to the water, it is known to flood. About 1.5km along the path is the Río Suarez which can be 1m in depth during high tide. Plan accordingly and be prepared to get wet.

The views along the 2hr. hike make the trek worthwhile. On one side, the rolling waves of the Caribbean drum against secluded, white-sand Playa Vargas; on the other, swampy forests clash with towering coconut palms. The treetops of Cahuita are among the best in the country for spotting howler monkeys and white-faced monkeys; at sunrise and sunset, the reclusive primates sometimes come down from their perches to meander along the shoreline.

Numerous cawa trees (Cahuita’s namesake) line the path; the tree is recognizable by its thick folds, which make it look as though they’re resting on a wrinkled base. The tree is also called sangrillo, for the blood-like sap it “bleeds;” Bribrí shaman have been known to prescribe concoctions of the sap to pregnant tribeswomen as a natural abortive. Look for the white trees that locals call gringo pelado under their breath: the trees peel in the sun like pale gringos. Boiled in milk, the peelings are thought to promote weight loss.

Though the majority of Cahuita’s animals are harmless, the park is known for yellow vipers, which are deadly and live in and around the park. Though they are often seen on the trail, they are timid and won’t attack unless disturbed. However, avoid wandering off the trail and give the snake space if you see one.

The Coral Reef

Fish of all kinds populate Cahuita’s 600-hectare coral reef; over 35 coral species line the ocean floor. In the past few years, the reef has shrunk due in part to the accumulation of eroded soil from banana plantations. Additionally, banana pesticides have drained into the water, contaminating the reef. Earthquakes have also deteriorated the reefs and have left dead coral in their wake, thus obscuring the sites. With the help of a guide ( Guided Tours), you can find some of the best snorkeling on the Caribbean coast. Snorkeling without a guide is prohibited. The most popular spot is Punta Vargas.

Daytrips From Parque Nacional Cahuita

  Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere.  Sixty-seven kilometers from Limón, Hitoy-Cerere is usually visited from Cahuita. Getting there by public transportation is possible, but the long journey necessitates starting early in the morning. Take any bus heading north from Cahuita and ask to be let off in the tiny town of Penshurt (20min., ¢170). Wait at the gas station for the hourly bus to Valle Estrallada, Finca 6. If you are coming from Límon, take the hourly bus from the MEPE station to Valle Estrallada (Ask to be let off at Finca 12; 30min., ¢360). From there, it is a 4km uphill hike along a winding dirt road winding through local banana plantations. There are no signs until you arrive, but it is the only road in the area. The ranger station has a large common space with TV, sheetless beds, outdoor and indoor bathrooms, and a friendly staff. ☎2798 3170; fax 2758 3996; aclaca@ns.minae.go.cr. Beds US$7. Open daily 8am-4pm. Camping not permitted. You can usually catch a ride back to Penshurt with one of the rangers, who descend daily in their 4WD vehicles. From there, wait for the hourly bus back to Cahuita or Limón. Guided tours of Hitoy-Cerere are available through agencies in Cahuita and Puerto Viejo; they usually run about US$65. Private taxis from Cahuita can be hired for about US$55; from Penshurt they run about US$25. Admission US$10.

The Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere is cradled between the Talamanca Mountain Range and the Estrella Valley, as well as by the three indigenous reservations of Tayni, Telire, and Talamanca. With an estimated yearly rainfall of 3500mm, the reserve has no dry season—merely a less-wet season. Because of the rain and the isolation, few tourists make it here, though it is a biologist’s paradise. Nature-lovers will enjoy the pristine, rugged trails and the vast knowledge of the rangers and local guides; there is even a collection of (dead) poisonous snakes and insects at the station. Guides are not customary, but rangers will gladly arrange a one. These guides are cheaper (¢8000-10,000 per day) than any arranged in Cahuita or Limón, and have experience in the area. Except for the two trails below, rangers request that visitors travel with a guide.

Sendero Catarata. This trail begins with a 10min. path starting from the station that eventually intersects the Río Cerere. Build a cairn (small pile of stones) to help you recognize the exit when returning. The rest of the trip is not a trail, but rather an effort to follow the river. Depending on recent rainfall, you could end up crossing the river seven to 15 times to reach more manageable, dry paths. Never wander far from the river, but follow it for 2km until you reach the first waterfall. The trail isn’t marked, but it is easy to follow. You may get soaked, so dress accordingly. The waterfall at the end provides luxurious bathing. A second waterfall, 1km farther, is off-limits without a guide.

Sendero Tepezcuintle. This is a tiny loop (1km, 45min.) through the woods near the ranger station. This trail offers the best views of Hitoy-Cerere’s flora and fauna. It is a safe, well-lit, well-marked path, but watch out for the tiny, bright red frogs—they are poisonous, even to the touch.