Positano Restaurants

Positano's centro is full of elegant restaurants—or at least, restaurants disguising tourist-trappery with elegance. While it won't be hard to satisfy seafood cravings near the coast, head up the hill toward Chiesa Nuova for great views, fewer people, and slightly better prices. The Mini Market A.D. stocks basics and is close to Chiesa Nuova bus stop. (V. Pasitea 352☎089 81 23 437 i Credit cards accepted. h Open M-Sa 7:30am-1:45pm and 4:30-9pm, Su 8am-1pm.)

• C'era una Volta, V. Guglielmo Marconi 127 (☎089 81 19 30; www.ristoranteceraunavolta.info), When they're not scribbling down takeout orders from hungry backpackers and locals, the busy waiters will be running to your table, delivering piping-hot plates in record time. This place has excellent pizza that will fuel you up for a day of rushing or resting—though, when you see the views of the coast from C'era una Volta's rooftop terrace, you'll probably choose the latter. It may be an uphill trek from the beach, but, with lower prices and that fabulous view, it's all the better for its elevated locale. Luckily for hostelers, all they have to do to get here is roll out of bed. Down the street from the Chiesa Nuova bus stop. Cover €1. Pizza €4-7. Open M-W noon-3pm and 7-11pm, Th 7-11pm, F-Su noon-3pm and 7-11pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Da Constantino, V. Corvo 95 From Ostello Brikette, walk upstairs, and turn right when you hit the real road, or take the bus to Nocelle. Amazing views, sea breezes, and occasional live music. Try the specialty crespolini al formaggio (cheese crepes; €9). A vegetarian buffet is available (€9.50). Pizza from €4. Primi €5-10. Secondi €8-13. Open in summer daily noon-­­3:30pm and ­­7pm-midnight; in winter M-Tu and Th-Su noon-­­3:30pm and ­­7pm-midnight; closed Nov.-Jan
• Saraceno d'Oro, V. Pasitea 254 (☎089 81 20 50; www.saracenodoro.it), Under soft red arches and twinkling lights, indulge in a meal that perfectly captures this part of Italy—everything from the coastal view to the homemade scialatielli allo scoglio (finely-cut pasta with seafood) shouts, “Amalfi!” Large doors open out onto small sidewalk tables, making the restaurant as airy as it is aromatic—you can be assured, that fish smell is drifting from the kitchen, not the ocean below. Though half the joy comes from lingering a while, margherita pizzas on the go (€5) can save you some time and money. Halfway up V. Pasitea between the Chiesa Nuova SITA stop and the tourist office; walk up the hill or take an orange city bus. Cover €2. Pizza €6-10, takeout €4-8. Pasta €10-15. Meat and fish €9-15. Open daily Mar-Dec noon-3pm and 6pm-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Trattoria Grottino Azzurro, V. Guglielmo Marconi 303-305 (☎089 87 54 66), Seafood restaurants often have a somewhat stuffed-shirt attitude, perhaps thanks to their usually elevated prices. Fortunately, with its white walls and wooden tables, the simple interior of this laid-back trattoria looks more like a tugboat than a cruise ship. There's no need for aesthetic flair because, as the natives of Positano know, this spot has the best seafood around. No pizza means you'll have to content yourself with a proper spoon, fork, and plate. Don't worry: with food this good, it won't be hard. Outside the Chiesa Nuova SITA bus stop. No reservations. Open M-Tu 11am-3pm and 7-10:30pm, Th-Su 11am-3pm and 7-10:30pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Lo Guarracino, V. Positanesi d’America 12 To avoid over-priced restaurants by Spiaggia Grande, take the stairs on the way to Fornillo Beach; the restaurant is to the right. Pizza €10; takeout €5. Primi and secondi €9-16. Reservations suggested for seaside tables. Open daily noon-­­3pm and ­­7pm-midnight