Parque Nacional Corcovado Overview

Sprawling along the western coast of the Osa Peninsula, Parque Nacional Corcovado feels like an Edenic garden. Cool, clear streams spill out of the rainforest and into the warm surf of the Pacific. While these deserted beaches are truly tempting, luring hikers to swim or bodysurf, the real draw of Corcovado is its variety of flora and fauna. Though the peninsula comprises only 4% of the land mass of Costa Rica, it offers 50% of its biodiversity. The park protects the last portion of tropical humid forest in the world, and the hundreds of species of trees are overhung with bromeliads, orchids, and other epiphytes. There was no land access to the park until 1978. Despite its popularity in recent years; Corcovado still awaits full exploration; hundreds of species still await identification by the students and scientists who frequent the area.

Transportation.  Puerto Jiménez is the largest town on the peninsula and offers the most affordable transportation into the thickets of the national park. Most independent hikers choose this town as their base of exploration. To get to the ranger station at La Leona, take the colectivo truck from Puerto Jiménez to Carate (2hr., daily 6am and 1:30pm, return 8am and 4pm, US$8, with Costa Rican residency US$2), which leaves from Soda Thompson, one block south and one block west of the soccer field. From Carate, turn right onto the beach. It’s about an hour’s walk to the park entrance at La Leona. To get from Puerto Jiménez to Los Patos, take the bus to La Palma that leaves from in front of the Super 96 (1hr., 6 per day 5am-3pm, ¢500.) From there, hike to Guadalupe (2km, 1hr.) and from there another 1km to Río Rincón (30min.). Finally, from Río Rincón, hike 13km (3hr.) to the ranger station at Los Patos, on a path along the river’s banks that crosses water over 20 times and ascends a steep ridge toward the end. Because of the river crossings, this path is often impassable during the rainy season; check with MINAE in Puerto Jiménez before heading out. In the dry season, you may be able to take a taxi from Puerto Jiménez (2hr., US$80) or a taxi tractor from La Palma to Los Patos (2hr., US$60-80).

From Bahía Drake , the only way to get to the eastern and southern parts of the peninsula is by car or boat. Roads are very rough and often require passing through rivers and creeks. Boats, on the other hand, are very expensive. To reach the ranger station at San Pedrillo from Bahía Drake, either hike 18km (6-8hr.) along a shaded trail that hugs the beach, or hire a boat from one of the Drake hotels for US$60-80 per trip. The trail may be flooded and it may be necessary to take a boat when water levels are high; contact the Puerto Jiménez MINAE for more information. (☎2735 5036. Open daily 8am-4pm.) Most hotels in Bahía Drake also offer guided tours of Corcovado including transportation to San Pedrillo for around US$80.

Orientation And Practical Information. There are four ranger stations inside the park boundaries, each of which has water, bathrooms, and campgrounds. Three of these form a triangle connected by trails— Sirena on the southwest tip, La Leona on the southeast tip, and Los Patos to the north between them. In addition to a camping area, Sirena also offers beds, electricity and a lodge with food service. San Pedrillo, on the northwest tip of the park, is accessible from Sirena only during the dry season (Dec. 1-Apr. 31) or by beach from Bahía Drake with a guide. Los Patos and La Leona are best reached from Puerto Jiménez; San Pedrillo is most accessible from Bahía Drake.

Accommodations And Camping.  Although the more athletic or motivated can make a round trip in two full days, most overnight trekkers spend three days in the park: the first to hike to Sirena, the second to explore using Sirena as a base (the route to Los Patos is most popular), and the third to hike out. Rangers arrange lodging options and meals. (Breakfast US$12. Lunch and dinner US$17. Dorm beds US$8; bring sheets and mosquito net. Camping US$4 per person; only allowed in designated areas at the stations.) Where the colectivo truck stops in Carate, there are last minute meals and snacks available at the pulpería (coffee ¢500; gallo pinto ¢1500; steak and eggs ¢2000). A public restroom is available (¢300). Camping is also possible in a field across the street with access to showers and bathrooms (US$5 per tent).

There are two other options along the beach before La Leona. At the posh Corcovado Lodge , travelers can stay in large tents with real bed frames and mattresses and take it easy in the hammock seating of the bar. (San José office ☎2257 0766 or 2222 0333; www.corcovadotentlodge.com. High season singles US$74; doubles US$54 per person. Low season US$68/51. 3 meals included.) The more affordable La Leona Lodge Camping , has 13 tents with air mattresses, sheets, towels, and beachside hammocks for relaxing after a day of exploration in Corcovado. Newly built, the site has a kind staff and clean facilities. (☎2735 5705 or 2735 5704; www.laleonaecolodge.com. High season singles US$45; doubles US$35 per person. Low season US$35/25. Ages under 3 free, ages 4-10 50% off. With lodging, trail use, three meals, and unlimited coffee, tea, and juice: high season US$85/75 per person. Low season US$75/65.) Both lodges are well-marked along the beach within 100m of the La Leona ranger station.

Hiking. In addition to a tide chart, guides are recommended for attempting the three major long-distance hikes inside the park. The first trail goes from La Leona to Sirena (16km, 6-7hr.) along a sandy beach with several parallel forest trails that are fairly well-marked. Two sections (Salsipuedes and Punta La Chancha) are impassable at high tide. It is best to speak with the rangers before heading out. The second hike, from Los Patos to Sirena (18km; 6-8hr.), is especially difficult during the rainy season, particularly where it crosses the Río Pavo. This trail passes through the heart of the rainforest near a swampy lagoon, and is the best place to find wildlife. The third trail, from Sirena to San Pedrillo, is only open from December 1 to April 31. It hugs the beach and ends in the forest. (25.5km; 8-10hr.) Beware: this is a dangerous hike, as the first 18km are on beaches that offer little shelter from the sun; your guide may want to pass here by night. In any case, stay hydrated. The last 7.5km is considered by many to be the most majestic ecological terrain in Central America, with gargantuan trees reaching heights of 75m spread throughout. Two hours from the end of the trail, stop for a break on Playa Llorona, where a magnificent waterfall awaits. Shorter dayhikes are possible from each of the ranger stations. Behind the San Pedrillo station, the short Sendero Catarata, on the right facing away from the sea, loops near a waterfall (45min.). Sendero Río Pargo begins across the Río San Pedrillo, which runs along the station. This trail through the woods leads to the Río Pargo (Snapper River), where you can swim near the mangroves while watching the fresh water run straight into the ocean (1-2hr. loop). Sendero Playa Llorona is 6hr. round-trip, much of it along the coast. Retrace your steps to return. From La Leona, out and back day hikes of varying lengths are possible down the park’s main trail. Many people choose to hike out on the trail past the Río Madrigal where inhabitants used to pan for gold, to Punta La Chanca and then return on the beach. Hikers must be aware that sections of the beach become rocky, requiring a return to the forest trail.

Sirena is encircled by six trails that run the gamut of wildlife exploration, making it the most popular destination in the park. Guanacaste (1hr.) and Espaveles (2hr.) explore the swampy lowlands where most mammals can be found. The steep ascent of Ollas (1hr.) leads to the ridge of Corcovado (3hr.), an excellent place to watch birds and the sunrise through the rainforest canopy. The Río Claro trail (3hr.) runs adjacent to the river of the same name and is a great place to observe freshwater wildlife. Finally, the Naranjos trail (1hr.) returns to Sirena along a beach lined with palm trees. Any one of these trails can be explored individually, but many hikers choose to hike two or more on end before returning to Sirena. Many visitors choose to stay two nights in Sirena to take the day to explore all of these trails in one large loop. You can also return to Salsipuedes and explore the sea caves that are exposed during low tide.