Parque Nacional Guanacaste lies on the opposite side of Parque Nacional Santa Rosa, across the Interamericana Hwy. While the western reaches of Guanacaste share Santa Rosa’s lowland habitats, the environment changes as the park rises toward the summits of Volcán Orosi (1487m) and Volcán Cacao (1659m). The park, created in 1991 in part from old ranch land, is open mainly to students and scientists in the dry season and is difficult to visit without private transportation. However, there are three research stations scattered about the park at Marzita, Cacao, and Pitilla. Although the park is generally frequented by groups, tourists are rarely allowed to stay at the stations, which offer dorm beds and cold-water baths (US$14 per person, students US$6). For information, contact the Santa Rosa headquarters (☎2666 5051; fax 2666 5020). Reservation instructions are available from reservaciones@acguanacaste.ac.cr.
The most modern of the three stations, Marzita Biological Station, is 18km away from the Interamericana Hwy. Marzita is not open to visitors without reservations. The turnoff is to the east, at the Cuanjiniquil intersection, 8km north of the entrance to Santa Rosa. Marzita has lodging for up to 32 people, electricity, and food service (request at least 3 months in advace). At this station, research is focused on aquatic insects. The 2hr. trail hike, Pedtroglifos El Pedregal, is named for its approximately 800 observable petroglyphs.
A 12km trail ascends from Marzita to the Cacao Biological Station, which is only open to groups, students taking the biology course or occasional visitors with reservations. It begins in Potrerillos, about 9km south of the Santa Rosa park entrance. From Potrerillos, head 7km east to Quebrada Grande (take the daily 3pm bus from Liberia), then 16km north along a 4WD road to the station. At the station, there is a 900m trail called Pedregal, which is open to visitors and leads to an observatory for forest fires. You can also climb to the top of Volcán Cacao, a hard 3hr. hike into the cloud forest that starts on the east side of the lab. You will need a permission slip from the park office. Anyone can get one, but they are required to speak to you about the rules and precautions.
Pitilla Biological Station is 28km off the highway near the Nicaraguan border, around 10km south from the town of Santa Cecilia. At Pitilla, you can delight in incredible birdwatching and catch a glimpse of Lago de Nicaragua from the top of mini-Volcán Orosilito. There is lodging available at the station for up to 28 people enrolled in courses or with at least three-month advanced notice at the Santa Rosa headquarters, along with a study room, two-way radio, drinking water, parking, and a 6hr. trail.
Liberia is only 1hr. away from the border at Peñas Blancas, which is more of a frontier than a town—just a few houses (and a whole lot of police and huge trucks) along the tree-lined road to Nicaragua. Buses run frequently from Liberia’s Estación Central to the border (every 2hr. 5am-7pm; ¢900). Buses from Liberia that continue into Nicaragua stop in front of Hotel Guanacaste (5hr., 3 per day 7:30-9:30am, US$15-20). To reach Peñas Blancas from San José, take a bus from C. 14, Av. 3/5 (6hr., 9 per day 3:30am-5pm, ¢3000). To get to Peñas Blancas from La Cruz, take a bus from Liberia (¢500) or take a taxi (¢5000).
Both Nicaraguan and Costa Rican immigration offices are open 6am-10pm. The whole border-crossing process usually takes about 30min., except for buses, which take longer. Either way, if you intend to cross the border, it’s a good idea to give yourself extra time. The Costa Rica Immigration Office (☎2677 0230 or 2667 0064) is the first big stop. Inside, there are two lines of people, one for those entering Costa Rica, and the other for those exiting Costa Rica. If you’re leaving Costa Rica wait here to get your passport stamped. Afterward, drive or walk to the actual crossing about 100m down the road. Banco de Costa Rica (open daily 8am-5pm), next to the immigration office, can exchange money, and so can other agents on either side of the border. Rates are better on the Nicaraguan side. Hotel Guanacaste in Liberia will also change money. Snack vendors line the road to the border, while more substantial food (hamburgers and casados ) is served at Restaurante de Frontera, connected to the immigration office (AmEx/D/MC/V). Buses from the Nicaraguan border run to Rivas (1hr., every 30min. 4am-5:30pm, ¢20) and continue to Managua. For San Juan del Sur, take the Rivas bus and change in Rivas for San Juan (30min., every 30min. 5am-5pm, ¢20). As always, watch your belongings on these buses.
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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