Parque Nacional Santa Rosa Overview

Established in 1971 as one of the first national parks in Costa Rica, Santa Rosa preserves the largest remaining tropical dry forest in Central America and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park stretches over most of the Península Santa Rosa, at Costa Rica’s northwest corner, and has managed to keep its beaches, though famous for surfing and turtle-watching, relatively free of tourists. The park is part of the Area de Conservación Guanacaste (ACG), one of 11 conservation areas in Costa Rica, and consists of nearly 200,000 hectares on land and sea. The unique flora includes the Guanacaste tree, Pochote, Naked Indian, and Caoba, as well as 115 species of mammals (lots of deer and monkeys), 400 species of butterflies and moths, 250 species of birds, and more than 30,000 species of insects. There are a number of enchanting miradores (lookout points) on the natural and man-made trails.

The park also houses a famous historical site, Hacienda Santa Rosa (La Casona). On March 20, 1856, a ragtag Costa Rican army defeated invading troops sent from Nicaragua by American imperialist William Walker. Though it only entailed 14min. of fighting, this battle is one of the most famous in Costa Rican history. The region’s penchant for stunted military intrigue persisted, and invasions were also prevented later in 1919 and 1955. Sadly, La Casona did not withstand its most recent invasion, on May 20, 2001, when two vindictive deer hunters snuck into the park and set fire to the site, burning over half the fort to ashes. The arsonists, apparently angered by recent hunting restrictions, were caught and convicted. Costa Ricans raised ¢200,350,000 to rebuild the fort, and La Casona now stands restored, with roof tiles from 1886 and (appropriately) a state-of-the-art fire alarm system. Out front, you can watch cattle going through immersion baths in preparation for their truck journey from the embarcadero to the corrales de piedra (stone corrals).

Transportation.  Buses traveling along the Interamericana Hwy. (such as the Liberia-Peñas Blancas bus, from Liberia every 2hr. 5am-7pm, ¢900) stop at the entrance station at La Casetilla. About 12 buses per day pass in each direction. No buses run the 7km to the administration center or along the dirt road to the beach, so those without wheels need to find other means of transport. Hotel Guanacaste, Hotel La Posada de Tope, and Hotel Liberia arrange transportation during the dry season (US$20 per person), but it may be cheaper to find your own taxi if you are in a group (US$60 roundtrip).

Orientation And Practical Information. The national park’s entrance station is 35km north of Liberia and 24km south of La Cruz, on the west side of the Interamericana Hwy. From here, a dirt road leads 7km to the park’s administration center, with MINAE offices and an information center. A bit farther to the left is the campground, and to the right, past the cabins, is the comedor (cafeteria). Beyond the administration center is a 4WD road (often closed to traffic during the rainy season) leading to the coast, 12km away. The road forks after 7km; the left branch leads 4km to Playa Naranjo, a popular campsite and famed surfing beach, and the right heads 8km to the turtle-hatching beach of Playa Nancite. Contact the park for volunteer opportunities, mostly available before and during the turtle-hatching (June-Dec.; reservaciones@acguanacaste.ac.cr). Access to this beach requires special permission. Contact the park (☎2666 5051). You cannot camp on Playa Nancite without permission.

The park’s Sector Murciélago  (open 8am-5pm), encompassing the isolated northern coast of Península Santa Rosa, isn’t accessible from the rest of the park; visits require starting from Cuajuniquil, 8km off the Interamericana Hwy. and reachable by bus from La Cruz or Liberia and a 7km walk on a dirt road to the sector’s ranger station (if you want to drive, 4WD is required year-round).

Park information is available at the administration center (☎2666 5051, ext. 219; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr). Open daily 8am-4pm. For reservations, contact reservaciones@acguanacaste.ac.cr. Park open daily 8am-4pm. US$10; beaches US$15; camping US$2 extra.

Accommodations And Food. The park offers lodging in small houses near the main offices and decent meals in the comedor. An on-site snack bar is open to all. Reserve lodging at least one month before. (☎2666 5051. Meals US$6 per day, served 11:30am-1pm; call ahead. Lodging US$12 per person.) A campground near the administration center has drinking water, toilets, and cold-water showers. The campground at Playa Naranjo and Nancite has toilets and non-potable water. Ask about camping at the administration center.

Sights And Hiking. La Casona, near the administration center (follow signs past the administration center to the left), is a museum featuring historic rooms with accompanying information and an exhibition about the Area de Conservación Guanacaste. (Open daily 8am-4pm. Free.) The Monument to the Heroes of 1856 and 1955 lies beside La Casona, with a windy view of nearby volcanoes Orosi, Cacao, and Rincón de la Vieja. The lookouts Mirador Tierras Emergidas, about halfway to the administration center from the entrance on the way to the coast, and Mirador Valle Naranjo, starting 6km after the administration center on the way to the coast, offer some stellar views of the mountains and the beach. All trails and points of interest are marked on a useful map available at the entrance (¢100). The short 1km Sendero Indio Desnudo (a.k.a. Gringo Pelado, or “Peeled Gringo”) begins on the north side of La Casona and features an impressive selection of regional plants. Many of the trees in this region lose their leaves during the dry season, so it’s not unusual to see them bare. Sendero Los Patos (3km), 5km beyond the administration center on the road to the coast, is one of the best trails for spotting birds and features Mirador al Cañon del Tigre. The 2km Sendero Palo Seco lies 300m before Playa Naranjo, as does the 6km Sendero Carbonal that leads to Laguna El Limbo, a crocodile hangout. On the coast, you can swim at Bahía El Hachal, Bahía Danta (temporarily closed), Coquito (temporarily closed), Santa Elena, and Playa Blanca (17km long), or hike the 600m trail (Poza del General) to see an abundance of birds and monkeys. You can camp in the area, but check with the park office to see if there is space, especially during Semana Santa (☎2666 5051). No potable water is available.

Beaches. The famous fast waves of Piedra Bruja (Witch Rock) break onto the 80-million-year-old stone off Playa Naranjo. Though there are great waves all along the shoreline, surfers might want to seek out particularly prime sandbars where the estuary meets the ocean at Piedra Bruja; these are best from December to April. Bring a mosquito net if you plan to use the campground at Playa Naranjo and beware of biting chitras on the beach at dawn and dusk. Playa Nancite hosts the country’s second-largest arrival of Olive Ridley turtles. The nesting season is from July to December and is at its height from October to November, especially during the eight days of the crescent moon, when 1000-6000 turtles arrive at 800m of beach each night around 9pm (these numbers vary depending on season). Access to Playa Nancite is restricted, and you need permission at the administration center. Lodging is only open to researchers and students. (Camping US$2 per day; maximum 25 people per day.) Call administration center (☎2666 5051, ext. 233) 20 days ahead to reserve camping near the beach; lodging available (US$10 per person, up to 20 people). If you arrive at the park by car, keep in mind that it is forbidden to drive to Nancite. Drop the vehicle off at Playa Naranjo, where a guard will watch it for you.