Pavones Overview

Named after the flocks of Great Curasaw turkeys that used to roam here, Pavones is home to the second longest left-break waves in the world—at times over a mile long—and for this reason is known as a goofy-footed (right foot forward) surfer’s paradise. Bronzed international surfers may sit for months awaiting the level of swells that can create triple overhead faces, and a vibrant community of farmers has called this place home for years. There’s little in the way of nightlife since most people are on a surfer schedule and get up early to hit the first waves. A few can be found lounging on the beach or boogie-boarding, but daytime activity is mostly confined to surfing. Vast expanses of sand with fewer surfers can be found at Punta Banco, 5km southeast. Follow the dirt road along the coast until the beach becomes less rocky (1km) and continue your trek on the dark sands.

The center of town is marked by a group of colorfully-painted, tin-roofed buildings with a parking lot near the soccer field. Two parallel roads run along the coast connected by a path that runs between the Abastecedor (Supplier) Willy Willy and Bar/Restaurant la Plaza. Two buses run daily from Pavones to Golfito leaving from the stop where the path meets the inland road (2hr.; depart 5:30am, 12:30pm; return 10am, 3pm; ¢1000 plus ¢50 for a ferry ride en route). The Golfito bus stops in Conte, where a bus from Neily to Playa Zancudo waits for people who want to make the connection from Golfito (noon and 4pm).

Public phones are located near the Supermercado Río Claro and Bar Esquina del Mar. The police station is located behind the soccer field next to Puesta del Sol. (Open 24hr.) SeaKings surf shop on the site of the original “Turkey Town,” the first surf shop in Pavones, is located across the street from Esquinas and sells surf gear, Pavones trinkets, and used boards for US$125-800. (☎2776 2015. Open M-Sa 10am-5pm.) Clear River Sports and Adventure, located in a small red building 100m outside of the town center, can satisfy all rental needs. They also have computers with Skype capability for use. (☎2776 2016, 2776 2017 or 2776 2403. US$3 per hr. Surf boards US$20 per day. Bikes and boogie boards US$10 per day. Open M-Sa 8:30am-4pm.) Next door to Sea Kings, Ylang Ylang sells handmade earrings, bikinis, and bags as well as other tourist items, such as hand-painted postcards. (☎2776 2401. Open M-Sa 11am-4pm.)

Accommodations

The gravel road that begins near Restaurante La Plaza and connects the beach road and the parallel inland road is lined with cabinas that are perfect for a variety of budgets. These places understand the mysticism awaiting a Pavones swell and will negotiate rates for longer stays.

• Cabinas Caza Olas (☎2776 2381 or 8876 4874), along the main gravel road around the bend from La Plaza. Neatly-decorated rooms in a 2-story blue house include access to the family’s kitchen. Laundry US$6 per load, or do it yourself for free. Check-out 11:30am. Quiet hours after 10pm. Doubles with shared bath US$20; triples US$30. With A/C and bath US$35/45.
• Cabinas Willy Willy (☎2776 2024), just up the road from Maureen. Newly renovated Willy Willy is 1 of the cleanest cabinas in town. Each room has A/C and bath with either 2 or 3 wooden beds. Double US$30; triple US$40.
• Cabinas Jasmin (☎8836 7196), 50m left from the bus stop where the gravel road meets the bus road. Has clean cabinas with cold ceramic bath, fans, wooden ceilings, and cement walls that keep rooms cool. Doubles US$25; triples with A/C US$45.
• Cabinas Maureen (☎2776 2002). In the same building complex as Sea Kings, Cabinas Maureen offers basic rooms with high wood ceilings, fans, and cold communal baths. The windows have screens, but bringing a mosquito net wouldn’t be a bad idea. Large rooms with shared bath US$10 per person. Rooms with bath US$15.
• Oceanside Cabinas Esquina del Mar, a cheap surfer hangout with a popular cantina. The bar is open irregularly, but it blares music during the day and offers a one-of-a-kind view of surfers enjoying the waves. Bring a mosquito net, as there are no screens on the windows. Ask for room #1, as it offers the best view of the sweeping lefts. ¢3000 per person with shared cold-water baths.

Food 

The biggest grocery store in town, Supermercado Río Claro, is up the gravel road, and left on the bus road for 200m. It offers everything from fresh fruit to pharmacy items. (☎2776 2012. Open M-Sa 7am-7pm, Su 7am-4pm.) Right in the center of town is Abastecedor Willy Willy, which sells basic groceries. (☎2776 2024. Open daily 7am-8pm.)

• Bar/Restaurante La Plaza (☎2776 2021), where the gravel road meets the main beach road. Locals and surfers alike fill up looking for huge portions of the best tico food in town. Diners eat on park benches and large patio chairs under a covered veranda. Casados ¢2500, with fish ¢2800; burger and fries ¢1500. Open daily 6am-8:30pm.
• Café de la Suerte (☎2776 2388; www.cafedelasuerte.com). Run by a pair of Israeli graphic designers, this cafe caters to California surfer palates with an all-vegetarian menu. Treat yourself to one of their creative sandwiches, like the guacamole, hummus, cheese, and pesto (¢3800), which will fill you right up. Open daily 7:30am-5pm.
• Restaurante La Bruschetta, located 2km south of town on the inland road (follow the signs for La Ponderosa). A colorful open-air Italian place with nice open views. The tasty Italian food and romantic atmosphere are worth the walk. Pizzas ¢5300. Pastas ¢5500. Try the gnocchi with gorgonzola. Open daily 11am-9pm.
• Puesta del Sol, just behind the goal of the soccer field, is a tourist-pleasing hut with irregularly-shaped wooden tables. It serves breakfast from a bamboo booth on the river’s mouth, right around where the lefts begin. Gallo pinto ¢1500; pancakes with fruit ¢1500. Open daily 8am-8pm.