While most travelers choose to explore the breathtaking natural beauty of Phang-Nga Bay National Park via speedboat from nearby Phuket or Krabi, there are some advantages to staying in small Phang-Nga Town. The provincial capital of Phang-Nga (pronounced “PUNG-aah”), Phang-Nga Town is also a launch pad for numerous bay tours, many of which are less expensive than those offered in Phuket or Krabi. From enchanting Sa Nang Manora National Park to the ancient Buddhist temple caves at Suwankuha, Phang-Nga is a treat for travelers looking to get a little off the beaten path.
Phang-Nga’s bus station (☎076 412 014) is on Phetkasem Highway, near the center of town, less than 1km away from most accommodations. Buses to Bangkok (11-13hr., 7 per day, 630-1039฿); Hat Yai (6hr.; every hr. 8am-3, 5:30, 7pm; 300-380฿); Krabi (1½hr., every 30min. 6am-8pm, 75-83฿) via Trang (3hr., 220฿); Phuket (1hr., every 30min. 6am-8pm, 80-90฿); Surat Thani (3½hr.; 7:30, 9:30, 11:30am, 1:30, 3:30, and 5pm; 90-170฿). Green songthaew run along the highway from the bus station to the pier (30฿), and to points around town (10-15฿). Motorcycle taxis also zip around town (20฿).
The entire town is on or just off a 4km stretch of Phetkasem Highway. The bus station is located just off the highway, near the center of town. From here, Phetkasem Hwy. runs north to Phang-Nga Guest House and a few blocks beyond. To the south, the town clings to the highway for about 3km, with most of the government offices 2km south of the bus station.
Phang-Nga is home to a wide range of accommodations. From the affordable with concrete floors, to the more expensive with gorgeous wooden interiors, there are plenty of places to get a good night’s sleep.
Phang-Nga has several good dining options near the bus station. The night market, off Phetkasem Hwy., two blocks to your left as you leave the bus station, sells fruit, soup, curry, and pad thai from 6-11pm. A handful of street vendors set up shop near the bus station on Phetkasem Hwy., with standard banana pancake and fried dough fare. (Open daily dusk-midnight.)
Most of Phang Nga Town’s interesting sights lie a good distance outside of town, but the Pung Chang Cave off Phetkasem Hwy., past the post office, is worth a visit. A stream runs through the cave, which has entrances 1.3km apart on opposite ends of a towering tree-covered limestone mountain. This mountain is visible from town and is said to resemble an elephant. Pung Chang is especially notable for its well preserved ancient cave paintings. Although you can walk to the entrance of the cave, you can’t get far inside without a raft. Sayan Tours and Mr. Kean operate half-day rafting trips through the cave for 500฿. (Open daily 8am-6pm. Motorcycle taxi to the cave from the bus station 50฿.)
Wat Thamtapan. The adventures at this sight are both riveting and appalling. As you enter the wat complex, head through the 50m dragon mouth. Once you exit the dragon mouth, continue straight on the dirt path leading to a beautiful cave with bridges that meander over the small river inside. Next, head back towards the rear of the dragon mouth bridge, take a right down the dirt path, and be prepared for some gruesome figures. This awesome but disturbing display is meant to be a portrayal of hell. The jarring images are not suitable for children. Upon exiting the hell portion of the wat, head right to the section portraying heaven, which is considerably less exciting. To the right of some monk dorms, past sofas, is a wooden ladder that leads up to a little pagoda with a view of the entire region. (1.7km from the bus station. From the bus station, head towards the hospital and take a right on Soi Thamtapan about 200m before the hospital. ☎076 413 805. Open 6am-6pm.)
Wat Tham Suwannakuha. This cave complex is a pleasant Buddhist temple, known by locals as Wat Tham. It consists of several caves, the largest of which is 40m long and houses an impressive 15m reclining Buddha. The temple (and its resident monkeys) is best visited late in the afternoon when the tourist buses have returned to Phuket, leaving the temple relatively undisturbed. ( 5-6 km. past Pung Chang Cave along Phetkasem Hwy. 8km outside of Phang-Nga, off Phang-Nga Koke Kloy Rd. To get there by motorcycle, continue down Phetkasem Hwy. until you see the sign for Wat Tham. Make a U-Turn and take a left into Phang-Nga Koke Kloy Rd. The cave is on your right 200m down the road. Roundtrip motorcycle taxi 200฿, roundtrip tuk tuk 400฿. Open 6am-6pm. 20฿.)
Phang-Nga Bay National Park. This massive park stretches over 400 sq. km, 80% of which is water, and encompasses vast, low-lying mangrove forests punctuated by more than 120 towering, postcard-perfect limestone islands. Touring through the maze of waterways on a longtail boat is a rare opportunity to experience a piece of pristine Thai wilderness. Although the bay’s status as a national park has aided in its conservation, responsible ecotourism is critical preventing damage to the islands. Most tourists make a beeline for the park’s twin jewels: beautiful Ko Khao Ping Gan and its satellite, Ko Tapu, better known as “James Bond Island” (scenes from the Bond flick The Man With The Golden Gun were filmed here). While the view of the thin limestone rock that is Ko Tapu (literally, “Nail Island”) slicing into the bay is quite striking, be prepared to wade through aggressive shell-vendors and tourists in order to stake out a prime photo-taking spot. If it gets too crowded on the beach facing Ko Tapu, take the trail that winds around Ko Khao Ping Gan for more spectacular panoramas. Another worthwhile destination is the Tam Lod Grotto, an open-ended, sea-level cave dripping with stalactites through which only small boats can maneuver. Ko Khien displays 3000-year-old drawings of boats and animals on the mountain’s edge, presumed to have been painted by seamen who were looking for shelter from a monsoon.
While larger boats visit from Krabi and Phuket, the most common tours are from Phang-Nga are on longtail boats, which, while a bit shakier, are able to maneuver through the narrow caves and waterways unlike the larger speedboats. It is possible to charter longtail boats from the pier during the high season. Still, it’s more relaxing to avoid the bartering and go with one of the reputable tour companies in Phang-Nga on a group tour. Phang Nga Town tour groups offer trips through the bay: ½-day 500฿, full-day 750฿, overnight trips 1050฿. The full-day trips include a stay at Ko Panyi and full-day kayaking trips (1500฿). The full day trip, also includes a couple more coves, swimming and lunch on the beach, and is probably the best deal of the four.
Whichever way you decide to visit the bay, be sure to dress to get wet. The “land” excursions may entail wading through knee-high water. Rainstorms on the bay, especially in the rainy season, can completely drench you in a matter of minutes. (Park admission 200฿, which will likely be included in the cost of your tour.)
Ko Panyi And The Muslim Fishing Village. Though technically part of the Phang-Nga Bay National Park, Ko Panyi is certainly worth a visit by itself. About 250 years ago, Muslim fishermen from Indonesia settled on the island, constructing homes and businesses on stilts above the water. Almost three centuries later, the Muslim fishing village is still a vibrant community with over 200 households, though nowadays it seems to cater more to tourists than to fish. Most tourist boats pull up along the southern shore at the docks leading to expensive waterfront restaurants. Behind these restaurants is an arcade of vendors hawking dried seafood and your typical tourist trinkets. The prominent town mosque is the only real site to see in the village, but watching gorgeous sunsets and sunrises from Ko Panyi village make the trip worth it. For more than souvenir shopping, turn off the arcade and amble down one of the town’s rickety, suspended streets to witness a fascinating community centered around the sea. Overnight stays are worthwhile, as the village assumes a different character after daytrippers return to the mainland. There is one hotel on the village. It is also possible to arrange a homestay with Panyee Homestay, (☎076 450 636; 250-350฿)—speak with any of the tour agencies. If you plan to stay there overnight, bring bug spray along for ubiquitous mosquitoes.
Sa Nang Manora Forest Park. This park, a small, secluded patch of dense rainforest bisected by a brook, makes for an adventurous day of hiking. Well-marked trails criss-cross the brook and its accompanying waterfalls, often on precarious “bridges” that are actually just two logs nailed together. Beware: the park closes for rain. There are ten hiking trails with a handful of small waterfalls with swimmable pools. Points of interest along the main 2km path include limestone cliffs, Shell Cave (which serves as an impressive reminder of the area’s oceanic past), giant trees, poisonous plants, and a finale known as Bat Cave. (9km from town, off a small, well-marked, winding road that branches to the right from Petchkasame Hwy. about 4km from town. Motorcycle taxis from the town center 150฿. The park headquarters at the entrance to the park offers free maps and will answer your questions, but does not conduct guided tours. There is no lodging or camping in the park. Open 8am-4pm. Free)
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