Few tourists make it to Phetchaburi, commonly known as Phetburi. This prosperous provincial town, bearing a strong Chinese cultural influence, is only a short bus ride south of Bangkok. The town is sprinkled with historic wats, a former royal palace, Khao Wang, as well as nearby stalactite and stalagmite-filled caves, and is known throughout Thailand for its delicious desserts. Those with an eye for culture, a taste for sweets, and a yearning to escape fellow farang will find Phetchaburi a rewarding place to explore.
Phetchaburi is best navigated by using the murky brown waters of the Phetchaburi River as a point of reference. The river runs south to north, bisecting the city. Damnernkasem Road runs parallel to the river on the western bank and intersects at its north end with Rodfai Road, which leads west, away from the river, to the hospital and train station. Heading south from Rodfai Rd., Damnernkasem first intersects Ratchavidhi Road, which also leads west away from the river to Khao Wang. It next intersects Cheesain Road, which leads eastward to several hotels, wats, and the Chomrut Bridge across the Phetchaburi River. Cheesain Rd. becomes Phongsuriya Road on the eastern bank of the river. Another main road, which runs parallel to the river on the eastern bank, is called Phanitcharern Road south of Phongsuriya Rd. and Thaywes Road north of Phongsuriya Rd. In addition to the river itself, Khao Wang, the white prang of Wat Mahathat, and the clock tower at the southern end of Surinruechai Rd. are all useful landmarks.
The accommodation situation in Phetchaburi is grim: most places are unclean, unfriendly, or both. Budget guesthouses along the river are friendlier and convenient, but often have low standards of cleanliness; the few mid-range hotels that cluster near the highway are cleaner, but less personal and convenient.
Phetchaburi is a far better place for eating than for sleeping. The city is known throughout Thailand for its scrumptious Chinese-influenced desserts, most famously khanom mor gaeng, a delicate egg custard perfected in Phetchaburi. A number of good dessert stalls line Phetkasam Soi Kao Rd. at the base of Khao Wang, near its intersection with Phetkasame Rd. But guard your sweets carefully: this is monkey territory. Both the night market (at the corner of Damnernkasem and Ratchavidhi Rd.) and the day market (along Surinruechai and Matayawong Rd., south of Phongsuriya Rd.) are excellent introductions to local cuisine. The night market offers the usual range of Thai dishes as well as Chinese items and local desserts. There also are many noodle stalls along Damnernkasem Rd., which cook up inexpensive and delicious meals.
With the exception of the Banda-It and Khao Luang caves, all sights are within walking distance of one another, though bicycling is not a bad idea.
Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park And National Museum (Khao Wang). In the 1850s, King Rama IV, tired of the heat and exhaustion of central Thailand, looked south to build a new royal retreat. His search ended on the hilltops overlooking Phetchaburi, where in 1858 he built Phra Nakhon Khiri. A unique mixture of Chinese and Western architecture, the park spreads across the hill’s three peaks. While none of the sights are individually spectacular, the fragrant hillside paths and terraces offer nice views, and the experience of wandering among the palace’s sights is greater than the sum of its parts. The westernmost peak houses a collection of halls and pavilions that form the royal residence. The palace’s original furnishings are still on display here. Phra That Chom Phet, a 49m-tall chedi, sits on the middle peak. On the eastern peak is Wat Phra Kaew, which Rama IV ordered to be constructed in the same style as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok’s Grand Palace. In early February, the town celebrates the Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair ( Festivals, ), which features local art shows, cultural performances, and cart races. Many visitors have complained about the especially aggressive behavior of Khao Wang’s monkeys. In order to avoid monkey harassment, don’t bring any snacks or sweets with you up the mountain. (Accessible by a cable car that runs up to the royal residence, or the steep but short footpath from the end of Ratchavidhi Rd.; entrance to cable car is located on an access road just east of Phetkasem Hwy. To reach the cable car, take a samlor (30-40฿) from the town center. Cable car runs 8:30am-4:30pm; 70฿, children 10฿ . Cable car ticket includes cost of admission to the museum. ☎032 428 539 . Museum open daily 9am-4pm. Museum admission 40฿. Park open M-Sa 8:15am-4:30pm.)
Wat Kamphaeng Laeng. These five impressive laterite-block structures hold Buddha images that were originally part of a 12th-century Khmer Hindu shrine. It is likely that Phetchaburi was once the southernmost outpost of the Khmer empire. Each of the five prangs is thought to have been dedicated to one of the five major Hindu deities. In the Ayutthaya period, the temple was reconsecrated to Buddhism, and images of Buddha replaced the Hindu sculptures within two prangs. The lavish main shrine contrasts sharply with the older surrounding buildings, reflecting Kamphaeng Laeng’s status as the residence of Phra Khruu Yanwitmon, Phetchaburi’s most revered monk. Tables and chairs scattered throughout the grounds make an excellent spot for a picnic. An interesting time to visit is during afternoon prayers, which begin at 4:45pm. (Follow Phongsuriya Rd. east past Wat Yai Suwannaram and turn right on Phokarong Rd. The wat will be on the right after 500m. If the front gate is locked, turn right on the road just after the wat, and enter at the gate on the right. Open 6am-6pm.)
Wat Mahathat Worarihara. With its giant white prang dominating the Phetchaburi skyline and the Buddhist relics stored inside, Wat Mahathat Worarihara is understandably one of the most popular religious sites in the area, and many locals will recommend it to visitors as Phetchaburi’s can’t-miss sight. Indeed, it is one of only seven temples in Thailand to have Buddhist relics. The dozens of Buddha images surrounding the main prang and the stuccos on the prang pedestals draw crowds. The bot contains several gorgeous carvings. Ask a monk to access the cloisters (through a small door on the right of the bot ) to see its endless rows of peaceful Buddhas. (On Damnernkasem Rd., 1 block south of its intersection with the Chomrut bridge. Open 6am-6pm.)
Wat Yai Suwannaram. This 17th-century religious compound features outstanding examples of art and architecture from the Ayutthaya period. Try asking one of the monks to open the two wooden buildings that contain well-preserved 18th-century murals of mythical angels. In the center of the pond, a monastic library on stilts holds Buddhist scriptures. The library was built above the water to keep the sacred scriptures away from ants and other bugs. Also check out the bot surrounded by Buddhas in varying positions. (On Phongsuriya Rd., a 10min. walk east from Chomrut Bridge away from Khao Wang. Open 6am-6pm . )
Khao Luang Cave. There are actually two caves: Khao Luang, the more impressive of the two, and Khao Jung, which is above ground and is much less exciting. Khao Luang has four caverns, the first of which features Buddha’s footprints (on your right as you enter). The cave is best seen and photographed between 11am and 2pm, when dramatic shafts of sunlight illuminate the largest golden Buddha and the red-tiled floor. Bring a flashlight to explore the cave’s darker recesses, but the most detailed statues are in front. Good English tours operate out of a booth in the parking lot right before the pathways to both caves. Guides will ask for 200฿ per cave as a donation to the wat and for their services. Do not feel pressured: give however much or little feel is appropriate. (20min. bicycle ride from the town center . Motorcycle taxi from town center 50-60฿, round-trip 100-120฿.)
Wat Khao Banta-It. A set of steps between two elephant statues leads to several caves, which, in terms of sheer Buddha quantity, are impressive. Unless you are really brave, a flashlight is a good aid, and will help illuminate the “Thousand Buddhas” tucked into the crevices. You will arrive (after walking about 60 steps, and battling agressive monkeys) to a large gold Buddha head at the top of the hill. The Buddha head is, as of 2008, being renovated, but the view from the top is quite nice. (3km from town. Take Bandai-It Rd. west, away from the river, past Khao Wang. The entrance is 100m. past the intersection with Phetkasem Hwy., on the right side of the road, at the group of 3 ornate shelters. No English sign. Go through the archway and up the short road. 20min. bicycle ride from the town center. Motorcycle taxis from town 50-60฿, samlor 60-80฿. Open daily 9am-4pm.)
60km from Phetchaburi and best reached with your own car. No direct public transport goes to the park from town, but you can take a songthaew from the clock tower at the center of town to Ban Kaeng Krachan village (50฿, 1½hr., 6am-6pm), 4km from the park, and catch a motorcycle taxi from there (30-40฿). Rabieng Rimnum Guesthouse runs 1- and 2-day excursions to Kaeng Krachan for 800-1500฿ per person per day, depending on how many people go and for how long. 4-person bungalows 1500฿, tents 30฿ to pitch your own, 280฿ to rent. You should arrive at the park by 9:30am, as the road leading from the park entrance to the waterfalls becomes one-way in the wrong direction at 10am.
Home to the stunning Pala-U waterfalls, Thailand’s largest national park envelops 3000 sq. km of rain forest in the western half of Phetchaburi Province. Its terrain ranges over lush forests, grasslands, caves, and cliffs; tigers, dusky langurs, and gibbons, among many other species of flora and fauna, call it home. Since its opening in 1981, four white elephants, considered symbols of royal prestige and good fortune, have been captured here and presented to the king. The Phetchaburi and Phanburi Rivers entice rafters, and park rangers occasionally lead hikes. Inquire at the visitor station near the park entrance. Spending the night at Kaeng Krachan Lake, near park headquarters, is pricey unless you camp. There are two additional campsites 30 and 40km to the west, closer to Pala-U waterfalls. However, a drive is still necessary to get to them. Renting a bus to get to these sites costs 1500฿, but you can team up with others to split the cost. Kaeng Krachan Park is not easy to reach or explore, but is worth the effort.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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