Barcelona Upper Barri Gòtic

Attic, La Rambla, 120 (☎933 02 48 66; www.angrup.com). Liceu. This chic restaurant promises high-class food at manageable prices. The modern, orange interior will feel like a refuge from touristy La Rambla. Mediterranean fusion cuisine, including fish (€10-14), meat (€8-15), and their specialty, ox burger (€11). Open daily 1-4:30pm and 7pm-12:30am. AmEx/MC/V.
Xaloc, C. de la Palla, 13-17 (☎933 01 19 90). Liceu. Classy local favorite. A clean look complements the butcher counter where pig legs hang from the ceiling. Expect simple plates with high-quality ingredients. Tapas €3-7. Cocas €4-6. Open M-F 9am-midnight, Sa-Su 10am-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
The Bagel Shop, C. Canuda, 25 (☎93 302 41 61). Catalunya, L3. Walk down La Rambla and take the 1st left, and then bear right onto C. Canuda; it’s on the left in Pl. Vila de Madrid. Bagels are rare in Spain, but here you’ll find a diverse selection (€1, toasted €0.15 more) and a variety of spreads, from cream cheese to mango chutney. Good place to go for a tasty, inexpensive lunch with plenty of vegetarian options. Bagel sandwiches €4-6. Open M-Sa 9:30am-9:30pm, Su 11am-4pm. MC/V.
Restaurante Self Naturista, C. Santa Anna, 11-17 (☎93 318 26 84). Catalunya, L4, on the left on C. Santa Anna off Las Ramblas. A self-service vegetarian cafeteria with a line of famished locals and an enormous selection of entrees (€3.30-€6.30) and desserts (€2-4). Lunch menú (3 dishes and a dessert) €8.80. Open M-Sa 11:30am-10pm. MC/V.
Els 4 Gats, C. Montsió, 3 (☎933 02 41 40; www.4gats.com). Catalunya. Literally “the four cats,” els 4 gats is actually a Catalan expression meaning “just a few guys,” an ironically diminutive name considering the cafe’s prestigious clientele. An old Modernista hangout of Picasso’s with lots of Bohemian character; he loved it so much he created a personalized menu. The building itself was designed by Puig i Cadafalch in 1897. These days the restaurant tends to attract more tourists than artistic geniuses, but it’s worth having one nice meal here. Food is expensive—entrees €12-20. M-F lunch menú 1-4pm (€13) is the best deal and comes with epic desserts; try the crema catalana. Live piano daily 9pm-1am. Open daily 10am-1am. AmEx/MC/V.
Čaj Chai, Sant Domenic del Call, 12 (☎933 01 95 92). Jaume I, L4. With quality teas from around the globe, a mosaic-covered interior, and a clever assortment of mismatched chairs and sofas, this tea house attracts a pensive, international crowd, poetry notebooks in hand. Pronounced “chai chai.” Tea €2-4. Small pastries €1-2. Open Tu-Su 10:30-10pm. Cash only.
La Colmena, Pl. de l’Àngel, 12 (☎933 15 13 56). Jaume I. A busy dessert shop appropriately named “the Beehive” offering everything from bon-bons to fruit tarts to meringues. The chocolate and whiskey tartlet (€2) is a particularly indulgent treat. Small pastries €1-3. Open daily 9am-9pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Betawi, C. Montsió, 6 (☎934 12 62 64; www.restaurantbetawi.com). Catalunya, L3. Take the 2nd left off Portal de l’Angel coming from the Metro; it’s across the street from Els Quatre Gats. A peaceful, delicately decorated Indonesian restaurant serving quality food in small portions. Menú €12. Entrees €9-14. Open M 1-4pm, Tu-Sa 1-4pm and 8-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Govinda, Pl. Vila de Madrid, 4 (☎933 18 77 29; www.amalteaygovinda.com). Catalunya, L3. Just to the right off Las Ramblas on C. Canuda. A mural of a flute-playing Krishna greets happy vegetarians and vegans. A true product of globalization: vegetarian Indian food served just a few feet away from a row of 2000-year-old Roman tombs in one of the world’s most pork-crazed countries. Serves thali (traditional Indian “sampler” meals with a variety of dishes on one platter; €18-22) as well as spring rolls, crepes, rice, Indian bread, fruit lassis (yogurt shakes), and more. M-F menú €9.50. Entrees €8-10. Open daily 1-4pm, for dinner Tu-Sa 8-11:45pm. AmEx/MC/V.