Barcelona El Raval

Authentic Catalan mainstays (found mostly on the side of El Raval farthest from Las Ramblas) and trendy fusion spots sit next to Middle Eastern restaurants and a growing number of student- and vegetarian-friendly juice/smoothie bars. There are several wholesome, tasty, self-service vegetarian eateries clustered around Carrer Dr. Dou. Near the MACBA, you’ll find a few upscale restaurants catering to museum-goers.

Organic, C. Junta de Comerç, 11 (☎933 01 09 02; www.antoniaorganickitchen.com). This vegan-friendly eatery provides wholesome, healthy dishes—starting with the filtered water used to prepare the food. Vegan salad bar and lunch menú (M-F €10, Sa-Su €14) served under candlelight and exposed ceiling. Salad bar regulars include cheese-and-mushroom croquetas and cucumbers and yogurt. Dinner served a la carte. 2nd location in La Boqueria market also has a menú and bocadillos; takeout only. Open daily 12:30pm-midnight. MC/V.
Rita Rouge, Pl. Gardunya (☎934 81 36 86; ritarouge@ritablue.com). Liceu. 2nd branch Rita Blue, Pl. Sant Augustí, 3 (☎933 42 40 86; www.ritablue.com). Savor a healthy, delicious, and high-quality lunch menú (€11; weekends €14) full of creative offerings and vegetarian choices on a shady, black-and-red terrace just behind La Boqueria, or come at night for a mixed drink (€6-8) on zebra-striped cushions or in the glittery bar’s red and silver bucket seats. Entrees (€9.50-22) include chicken tandoori with yogurt and basmati rice. Salads and wok dishes €6-12. Open M-Sa noon-2am, Su 6pm-2am.
Kasparo, Pl. Vicenç Martorell (☎933 02 20 72). Catalunya. Walk down Las Ramblas, make a left on C. Elisabets, and a first right onto C. de les Ramelleres. The plaça is on the right, and the restaurant is in the far right corner. Alternatively, walk down C. de Pelai and make a left onto C. de les Ramelleres. The plaça is 3min. down, on the left. Kasparo capitalizes on—and helps to create—the bustling atmosphere of the Raval plaça. Almost all of Kasparo’s seating is outdoors; pull up a metal table under the building’s vaulted overhang and people-watch to your heart’s content. Perfect for an early-evening drink or a late-night cortado —but be warned, you might get comfortable and end up staying for dinner too. Luckily dishes (€5-8) include fresh soups, salads, and pasta, with some vegetarian options. Open daily 9am-midnight. Cash only.
Restaurante Can Lluís, C. Cera, 49, and Reina Amalia, 1, (☎934 41 11 87). Sant Antoni, L2. From the metro, head down Ronda S. Pau and take the 2nd left on C. Cera. For over 100 years, Can Lluís has been a defining force in Barcelona’s cuisine—and politics. On Jan. 26, 1946, a grenade set off in the restaurant killed the owner and his son. Later, under Franco, artists used Can Lluís as a gathering place. Eschewing trendiness, the menu is filled with traditional Catalan favorites prepared home-style and always bursting with flavor, including succulent lamb ribs (€9.80), grilled squid (€10), and fresh grilled asparagus (€5.40). Dinner menús (€20-35) include wine. Entrees €6-20. Open M-Sa 1:30-4pm and 8:30-11:30pm. MC/V.
Mendizabal, Junta de Comerç, 2. Try the zumo del día (juice of the day) at this colorful student favorite, right near the school of fine arts. Need something to wash down all that juice? No problem: beer is cheap (€2.50), as are the bocadillos ( serrano ham, brie, tomato; €3.50), freshly grilled behind the counter. Crayola-colored patio furniture beneath umbrellas in the plaça across the street. Open daily 8am-12:30am. Cash only.
Shalimar, C. Carme, 71 (☎933 29 34 96). From Catalunya, L1/3, right on C. Carme. Indian and Pakistani cuisines make their peace at inexpensive prices. Walls sport blue-and-white tilework. Chicken, lamb, and seafood curries €6.50-9. Chicken tandoori €6.50. Open M and W-Su 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight, Tu 8pm-midnight.
Hello Sushi, C. Junta de Comerç, 14 (☎934 12 08 30; www.hello-sushi.com). Universitat. Zen red-and-blue decor and small tea area with floor cushions. Lunch menú €9; dinner menú €15. Entrees €15-25. Open Tu-Sa 12:30-4:30pm and 8:30pm-12:30am, Su 8:30pm-12:30am. Reservations required F-Su nights. AmEx/MC/V.
Madame Jasmine, Rbla. del Raval, 22. Eclectic decorations, a spirited staff, and an array of wonderfully mismatched chairs overlook Fernando Botero’s fat cat sculpture in the middle of Rambla de Raval. Delicious bocadillos (€5.50) and salads (€7). Mixed drinks €6. Open M-F 5:30pm-2:30am, Sa-Su 1:30pm-2:30am. Kitchen open daily 1pm-midnight.
Juicy Jones, C. Hospital, 74 (☎934 43 90 82; www.juicyjones.com). Liceu. Walk down C. L’Hospital. JJ is a DIY vegetarian juicebar where everything’s made by hand, from the murals and graffiti on the walls to the menus on the tables. Offerings include a lunch menù (€8.50), thalis (mixed plates of Indian dishes), salads (€4.50-5.30), guacamole (€3.80), the house cookie (€1), and Pear-Celery-Lime juice (mixed juices with three fruits, €3.45; add spices like ginger for €0.50). Open daily 1-11:30pm. MC/V.
Ultramarinos Bar, C. Sant Pau, 126 (☎635 14 47 26; www.ultramarinosbar.com). Paral-lel. Walk down C. Sant Pau; the bar is on the left. By day, Ultramarinos serves up Iberian ham, cheese, and pa amb tomaquet (bread with tomato) as well as other traditional Catalan dishes. Showcases local artists’ canvases. By night, the 2-tier bar has a DJ and a small but committed crowd of regulars. Entrees €5-10. Mixed drinks €5-7. Open daily 6pm-3am. Cash only.
Elisabets, C. Elisabets, 2-4 (☎933 17 58 26). Liceu. Walk up Las Ramblas and make a left onto C. Elisabets. This welcoming, smoky old-school bar serves tapas (€1-8) and home-cooked dishes like lasagna to a young clientele. Popular during the day, but really buzzes on weekend nights. Lunch menù €8.50. Entrees €6-12. Open M-Th 8am-midnight, F-Sa until 2am. Cash only.
Original Pizza-Bar, C. Joaquim Costa, 47 (☎933 17 20 89). Universitat. Walk down Ronda de Sant Antoni and make a right on C. Joaquim Costa. This pizzeria has colorful red, orange, and black walls and serves greasy, delicious, and cheap slices, perhaps best enjoyed late at night. Try the eggplant, goat cheese and walnut pizza, or the ham-and-chili. Slices €2. Empanadas €2.90. Open daily 1pm-2am, F-Sa 1pm-3am. Cash only.
Bar Invisible/Pizza Ravalo, Pl. d’Emili Vendrell, 1 (☎934 42 01 00), at the intersection of C. Joaquin Costa and C. del Peu de la Creu. Liceu. Walk up Las Ramblas and make a left onto C. del Carme. When you hit C. Joaquin Costa, make a right. The bar is on the left, just after the intersection. This bar is easy to miss, but a delight to find. Set back from C. del Peu de la Creu and obscured by shrubs in large terra-cotta pots, the burgundy-walled venue offers delicious mixed drinks. Try the specialty (cava, pineapple juice, peach, and cassis; €5). Pastas and pizzas €7.50-13. Be bold and try the “surprise” pizza (€13). Open daily 6pm-midnight. MC/V.
Chelo, Pl. Vicenç Martorell (☎933 18 55 01). Catalunya. Walk down C. de Pelai and make a left onto C. de les Ramelleres. The plaça is about 3min. down, on the left. The beautifully stenciled plants and flowers on this restaurant’s walls reflect its attention to detail and commitment to natural ingredients. Chelo has open-air seating on a popular plaça and serves excellent smoothies, milkshakes, and pastries (€3-6). Open 10am-midnight. Cash only.
Cafe d’Annunzio, Pl. Vicenç Martorell (☎933 02 40 95). Catalunya. Walk down C. de Pelai and make a left onto C. de les Ramelleres. The plaça is about 3min. down, on the left. The decapitated heads of Greek statues stare at you from this cheerful eatery’s red walls. Inside, 1 table is cozily tucked below the low-hanging ceiling in a sunken recess. The majority of the seating, however, is out in Pl. Vicenç Martorell—enjoy a full breakfast (rare in Barcelona) of coffee, eggs, ham, juice, and toast here for just €6. Entrees €6-12. Open 9:30am-1am. MC/V.
Cafeterium, C. Tallers, 76 (☎667 64 01 11; www.cafetarium.com). Universitat. Walk down C. Tallers. This all-purpose cafeteria/restaurant/ cerveceria has streamlined white tables by day and caramel-colored lighting by night. Tasty, elegantly presented dishes and a relaxing ambience explain why the venue is nearly always full. Tapas €3-12. Sandwiches €2-5. Happy hour 6pm-midnight; beer €1. Open M-Sa 8am-11:30pm. MC/V.
Narin, C. Tallers, 80 (☎933 01 90 04). Universitat. Walk down C. Tallers. This shawarma restaurant sets itself apart from a thousand other similar venues with fresh ingredients, fiery sauces, and a dining room with elaborately tiled walls and pine wood tables. You might even consider eating here sober. Hummus plate €3.40. Shawarma with chicken €3.90. Falafel combo plate €7. Open M-Th and Su 11am-2am, F-Sa 11am-3am. Cash only.
L’Antic Forn, C. Pintor Fortuny, 28 (☎933 04 25 18; www.lanticforn.com). From Catalunya, C. Pintor Fortuny is 5min. down Las Ramblas. From Liceu, it’s 5min. up Las Ramblas. It’s rare to find lace curtains, white tablecloths, and gourmet dishes at prices this affordable. Try the risotto with shrimp and parmesan cheese (€6.50) or the grilled lamb chops with garlic salsa (€7.80). Selection of pizzas. Entrees €5.50-16. Open 9am-5pm and 8pm-midnight. MC/V.
En Ville, C. Doctor Dou, 14 (☎933 02 84 67; www.envillebarcelona.es). From Catalunya, C. Pintor Fortuny is 5min. down Las Ramblas. From Liceu, it’s 5min. up Las Ramblas. Make a right onto C. Doctor Dou; the restaurant is on the right. Although this restaurant is indoors, its terra-cotta floors, mirrored walls, and floral bouqets make it feel like an upscale, outdoor patio. Live music Tu and W nights after 9pm. Try the octopus carpaccio with arugula and citrus (€9.70) or the duck with polenta and caramelized apples (€15). Open M 1-4pm, Tu-Sa 1-4:30pm and 8pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
Tallers 76, C. Tallers, 76 (☎933 18 89 93; www.tallers76.com). Universitat. Walk down C. Tallers. This new restaurant serves Valencian-influenced tapas, sandwiches, paella, and a few meat dishes in a geometric, purple space with excellent natural lighting. Start with the tapa of paella (€5.50) and follow it up with a smoked salmon, fresh cheese, and lettuce sandwich (€4.80). Entrees €5-11. Open M-Su 9am-11:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Olivia, C. Pintor Fortuny, 22 (☎933 18 63 80). From Catalunya, C. Pintor Fortuny is 5min. down Las Ramblas. From Liceu, it’s 5min. up Las Ramblas. This white-walled cafe has light wood booths and an organic menu. Savor a perfect cup of coffee and a slice of carrot or apple cake (€3.50-4.50). Tranquil and newspaper-friendly. Open M-Sa 9am-9pm. MC/V.
DosTrece, C. Carme, 40 (☎933 01 73 06; www.dostrece.net). Catalunya. This restaurant-bar’s mosaic bar and high-backed, red leather barstools give it a retro diner feel. American/Mediterranean/Middle Eastern cuisine. Downstairs lounge has Moroccan accents. Lunch menú M-Th €10.50, F-Sa €12. Entrees €6-17. Wi-Fi. Kitchen open daily noon-midnight; bar open Th-Su until 3am. AmEx/MC/V.
Mamacafé, C. Doctor Dou, 10 (☎933 01 29 40), right off C. Pintor Fortuny. Catalunya, L1/3. A great place to find healthy, fresh options (some vegetarian) with an exotic twist. Try the ravioli with brie, candied onion, and tomato jam (€9.90) or the crunchy chicken with plump sweet corn and olive pesto (€12). Bright, geometric designs make for an atmosphere that is casual without being shabby, and artsy without being pretentious. Lunch menú M-F €9.60, Sa €13. Open M-Sa 1-4pm, F and Sa 8pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
Silenus, C. Angels, 8 (☎933 02 26 80). From Catalunya, L1/3, a right off C. Carme. As much art gallery as restaurant, the softly elegant Silenus is the place to go for gourmet food and soft conversation (date night, anybody?). The menu, memorably titled “A Short Treatise on the Passions of Flavors,” includes duck and a venison hamburger (€12) as well as the exotic filete de kangoo (yes: kangaroo) in raspberry sauce (€17). Lunch menú changes daily (€6-14); the artwork changes 3 times per year. Open M-Th 11am-11:30pm, F 11am-midnight, Sa 1pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
Restaurante Biocenter, C. del Pintor Fortuny, 25 (☎933 01 45 83; www.restaurantebiocenter.es). From Catalunya, L1/3, right on C. del Pintor Fortuny. See-through white wooden shelves and white canvas curtains turn what would otherwise be a sizeable restaurant into a linked chain of intimate, lamp-lit spaces. Organic and vegan options (self-service buffet at lunch, table service at dinner). Try the organic “bio wine” (€2.25), or sip on a “hot chickory drink” (we’re not sure what it is either; €2.50). Lunch menu M-F €9.75, Sa €11.75. MC/V.
Papitu, Placa Sant Galdric (www.ravalero.com). Liceu. A cheerful, yellow-walled food stall with a long chalkboard menu outside. Boquiera -fresh tapas like gambas a la plancha (€5). Patrons can sit at patio tables among large oak barrels topped with vases of carnations. Beer (€2.50) and wine served. Open daily 9am-1am. Cash only.
Carmelitas, C. Carme, 42 (☎93 412 46 84; www.carmelitas.biz and www.carmelitasgallery.com). From Catalunya, L1/3, right on C. Carme. Sunshine brightens the simple and stylish interior of this new, airy restaurant during the day; a red light (not that kind) illuminates it at night. Menu items are scrawled on the windows and mirrors in chalk. For lunch, there are entrees of fresh fish straight from the nearby Boqueria market (rotating appetizers and entrees €4-14). At night, snacks include artichoke chips (€2.70) and the excellent calamares a la plancha (squid strips; €8.50). If you had to lay off your personal sommelier, don’t worry; dotted lines on the menu connect dishes with suggested wine pairings. Vegetarian options. Open M-Th and Su 10am-midnight, F-Sa 10am-2am. Reservations recommended Th-Sa. AmEx/MC/V.
Pla dels Àngels, C. Ferlandina, 23 (☎933 49 40 47). Universitat. The inspired decor of this colorful, inexpensive eatery befits its proximity to the contemporary art museum. Creative, healthy dishes and a large vegetarian selection served on the terrace. Entrees €5-8. Open daily 1:30-4pm and 9-11:30pm. MC/V.