Barcelona Montjuïc And Poble Sec

The more time you spend in Poble Sec, an up-and-coming neighborhood nestled between Montjuïc and the Raval, the more you’ll love it. Streets that seem empty by day bustle after 9pm; by night, the nearby hillside lends the whole neighborhood an enchanted-forest feel. At dinner time (10pm), head to Calle Magarit —the street has several delicious Catalan and Italian restaurants. Dining options are not as plentiful in Montjuïc as elsewhere in the area, but the Fundació Miró, MNAC, Castell de Montjuïc, and Teatre Grec all have pleasant cafes. Poble Espanyol has a number of touristy restaurants. Menús at these run €10-15.

Inopia, C. Tamarit, 104 (☎934 24 52 31). Poble Sec. Walk up Av. del Paral·lel 1 block to C. Rocafort; make a right, and Inopia is 1 block up, on your right. You might think that this unassuming tapas bar, which has tile walls adorned with customers’ postcards and more stools than tables, is nothing special. You would be wrong. Inopia is run by Alberto Adrià, the kid brother of Ferran Adrià (of El Bulli fame) and also El Bulli’s pastry chef; the tapas (€2-10) are innovative takes on more traditional dishes and are always fresh. Try the Bikini with mozzarella and boiled Iberic ham (€4.50) or, for dessert, the strawberries with caramel and chardonnay vinegar (€3.80). Open Tu-F 7-11pm, Sa 1-3:30pm and 7-11pm. Reservations recommended, or expect to wait in a long line. MC/V.
La Tomaquera, C. Margarit, 58. Poble Sec or Paral·lel. From Poble Sec, walk 4 blocks down Av. del Paral·lel to reach C. Margait. From Paral·lel, C. Margait is 5 blocks up. This boisterous, popular Catalan restaurant has no menus and accepts no reservations but serves some of the best caracoles and carnes a la brasa in town. Try the butifarra (€7) or the artichokes (€9.30). Open M-Sa 1:15-3:45pm and 8:30-10:45pm. Cash only.
Quimet i Quimet, C. Poeta Cabanyes, 25 (☎ 934 42 31 42). Paralel·lel. Walk up Av. del Paral·lel and make a left onto C. Poeta Cabanyes. This tiny and much-loved tapas bar’s floor-to-ceiling shelves are stocked with bottles of wine of every caliber. Squish in among the locals who pack the place and eat your fill of innovative montaditos (little sandwiches). Open Sept.-July M-F noon-4pm and 7-10:30pm, Sa noon-4pm. MC/V.
Xemei, Passeig de l’Exposició, 85 (☎935 53 51 40). Poble Sec. Walk 1 block down Av. del Paral·lel and make a right onto C. de la Creu des Molers. Walk 7 blocks up to the end of this street; the restaurant will be directly in front of you. This Venetian restaurant owned by twin brothers serves gourmet Italian fish and pasta in a candlelit restaurant on the Montjuïc hillside. Try the espresso risotto with zucchini and crawfish (€18). No lunch menu; only a la carte offerings. Open 1:30-4pm and 6pm-midnight. MC/V.
Bella Napoli, C. Magarit, 12 (☎934 42 50 56; www.bellanapoli.net). Poble Sec or Paral·lel. From Pable Sec, walk 4 blocks down Av. del Paral·lel to reach C. Margait. From Paral·lel, C. Margait is 5 blocks up. This trattoria is rumored to have the best pizzas (€7-12) in town. Exposed brick walls and white tablecloths make for a classy and cozy setting in which to eat your provola, bresaola, tomato, cherry, and rucula pizza (€11) or, on Su, your lasagna (€15). What other restaurant has the confidence to serve only lasagna on Sundays? Open Tu-Su 1:30-4pm and 8:30-midnight. MC/V.
Bar Seco, Pg. de Montjuïc, 74 (☎933 29 90 06). Parel·lel. Walk up C. Nou de la Rambla to Pg. de Montjuïc. This corner bar, nestled at the base of Montjuïc, is the perfect place to sip your cafe con leche (with croissant; €2.30) or eat a light lunch. Ingredients are local and organic; try the bocadillo “Solo,” with apple, walnuts, and gorgonzola. By night, the restaurant is quieter, and white Christmas lights twinkle in the windows. Open M 9am-5pm, Tu-Th 9am-1am, F 9am-2am, Sa 10am-2am, Su 10am-1am. Cash only.
Barramon, C. Blai, 28 (☎934 42 30 80; www.barramon.es). Poble Sec. Walk up C. Blai. This bar, with an outdoor patio, specializes in the food of the Canary Islands. Try the almogrote (€5), a mixture of cured cheese sprinkled with garlic, red pepper, and olive oil, from the island of La Palma, or the lamb marinade (€8.50), which is common on all of the islands. Entrees €5-10. Open M-F 6pm-1am, Sa-Su 1pm-1am. Cash only.
Montalban, C. Magarit, 31 (☎934 42 31 43). Poble Sec or Paral·lel. From Pable Sec, walk 4 blocks down Av. del Paral·lel to reach C. Margait. From Paral·lel, C. Margait is 5 blocks up. No printed menus—just a chalkboard that lists a lot of delicious, fresh fish dishes—at this neighborhood favorite. The crawfish is a must-try. Open Tu-Sa 2-3pm and 9-10pm and Su 2-3pm; no one is hurried out and meals often take a few hours. Reservations necessary. MC/V.
O Meu Lar, C. Magarit, 24 (☎933 29 70 74; www.omeular.es). Poble Sec or Paral·lel. From Pable Sec, walk 4 blocks down Av. del Paral·lel to reach C. Margait. From Paral·lel, C. Margait is 5 blocks up. The turf to Montalban’s surf, this restaurant serves up wood-grilled meat in a subterranean enclave. Try the rabbit (€7) or the sirloin steak (€24). Open 1:30-4:40pm and 8:30pm-midnight. MC/V.
Taverna Can Magarit, C. Concordia, 21 (☎934 41 67 23). Poble Sec. Walk up C. Concordia. Fill your glass at one of the large casks of wine at the entrance to this old-fashioned tavern; use it to wash down tasty traditional Catalan fare. Entrees like buitfarra with beans and rabbit €9-15. Open M-Sa 9-11:30pm. MC/V.
La Fibula, (☎934 42 48 35). Poble Sec. Walk up C. Blai. This Moroccan-style tea shop with tiled tables and ornately etched glasses is the perfect place to enjoy conversation or a thick novel. The teteria offers over 35 types of tea (€2.30) including caramel, eucalyptus, and kiwi, and nearly as many styles of hot chocolate (€2.80-3.10). Middle Eastern music on the stereo. Sweets (baklava and more) €1.10-2.20. Open daily 9:30am-2pm and 5-10pm. MC/V.
La Soleá, Pl. del Sortidor, 14 (☎934 41 01 24). Poble Sec. From Av. del Paral·lel, walk up C. de Radas. Make a left onto C. de Magalhaes; Pl. del Sortidor is at the end of the street. This sunny bar has orange and yellow tiles, patio seating, and a menu that includes Mediterranean dishes like hummus (€3.50) as well as more standard fare (nachos; €4.50). Perfect for a quick bite. Open Tu-Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-6pm. MC/V.
Zodiaco, C. Magarit, 17. Poble Sec or Paral·lel. From Pable Sec, walk 4 blocks down Av. del Paral·lel to reach C. Margait. From Paral·lel, C. Margait is 5 blocks up. This cheerful bar has ladybug-print wallpaper and patio seating on C. Blai. With better options in the neighborhood, this might not be the place to eat a full meal, but it does offer a prime location for people-watching and sipping a coffee or a beer. Open daily in summer 1:30pm-1:30am, in winter 6pm-1:30am. MC/V.