Barcelona Gràcia

Without a doubt, Gràcia is the best place in Barcelona to find authentic cuisine from anywhere around the globe. Traditional markets (see Shopping) and Catalan menus are popular, but the side streets of Gràcia are the place to find reasonably priced ethnic cuisine. Tapas bars dominate Plaça del Sol and Plaça Virreina; Calle Verdi is your go-to for culturally diverse (Egyptian, Japanese, Lebanese, Mexican, and Pakistani) food.

Gasterea, C. Verdi, 39 (☎932 37 23 43). Fontana, L3. Follow C. Astúries for several blocks and make a right on C. Verdi. Yellow walls cast a warm glow in this table-less bar. Grab a seat at one of the counters and dig in to Gasterea’s selection of excellent, fresh tapas (€1.10). Beer €2-3. Mixed drinks €5. Open daily 7pm-2am. Cash only.
Ikastola, C. Perla, 22 (☎933 68 83 87), off C. Verdi. Fontana, M3. Tired of being a grown-up? Then head to Ikastola (Basque for “nursery school”) without letting go of the perks of adulthood (like alcohol). Ikastola has the best bokatas in the city, and all the locals know it. Every night, a young, hip crowd of would-be Picassos and Verdaguers overflows onto the small backroom terrace, eager to draw on Ikastola’s chalkboards, play the upright piano, and eat sandwiches that would make any lunchbox proud. Bokatas €4.50, half portion €3. Salads €7. Beer and wine €2.50-5. Cash only.
L’iIla de Gràcia, C. St. Domenec, 19 (☎932 38 02 29; www.illadegracia.com). Fontana or Diagonal. Take C. Gran de Gràcia and turn on C. St. Domenec; the restaurant is 2 blocks down on the left. This spacious and brightly lit vegetarian restaurant has a long menu that will prove a relief to those who tire of persuading tapas-bar owners that ham isn’t a vegetable. Salads €4.60-5.70. Crepes (sweet and savory) €4-6. Ice cream €3-4. Open M-Th 1-4pm and 9pm-midnight, F-Sa and Su 2-4pm and 9pm-midnight. MC/V.
Sol y Lluna, C. Verdi, 50, (☎932 37 10 52). Fontana. Walk up C. d’Asturies, make a right on Torrent de l’Olla, a left onto C. L’Or, and another left onto C. Verdi; Sol y Lluna is on the right. Locals rave about this understated gourmet restaurant, which has a marble bar, wooden tables, and a giant hippopotamus statue. The menu includes large salads such as the Perigord ( foie gras, duck, and caramelized apples; €8.30) and crepes (chocolate and banana, €3.80; Grand Marnier, €4.10). Open M-Th and Su 8-11:30pm, F and Sa 1-3:30pm and 8pm-12:30am. MC/V.
La Gavina, C. Ros de Olano, 17 (☎934 15 74 50). Fontana, L3. Walk down C. Gran de Gràcia and turn left on C. Ros de Olano. Enjoy delicious Italian food in this no-frills pizzeria, complete with a life-size patron saint and confessional candles. Try the Catalana (tomato, mozzarella, chorizo sausage, garlic, and artichokes; €16). Gigantic pizzas €8-16. Open Tu 8pm-1am, W-Th and Su 1:30pm-1am, F and Sa 1:20pm-2am. Cash only.
Cantina Machito, C. Torrijos, 47 (☎932 17 34 14). Fontana, L3. Take C. d’Asturies until you hit C. Torrijos and make a right. Mexican food is rare in Spain, but this cantina with colorful walls, straw-covered seats, and a few sombreros serves affordable and surprisingly authentic tacos, mole, guac, and margaritas. Well-known for its Cinco de Mayo celebration. Entrees €7.50-14. Open daily 1-5pm and 7pm-1am. MC/V.
Laila, C. d’Asturies, 17 (☎934 15 52 70). Fontana. Walk down C. d’Asturies. This Lebanese pizzeria’s hip, red-and-black graphic decor and long, cushioned benches make you want to sit down and stay awhile. At any time of day, a young crowd lounges, eating gourmet pizzas (€7-11), drinking coffee, and socializing. Open daily 10am-midnight. Cash only.
Niu Toc, Pl. Revolució de Setembre, 3 (☎932 13 74 61). Fontana. This restaurant, popular for business lunches and also with young people, serves a €10 menù of Catalan cuisine, day and night. Try the specialty—cod—or steak, or paella. The dinner menu is an especially good deal thanks to this restaurant’s location on a plaça that is at the heart of Gràcia’s young nightlife scene. Entrees €8-16. Open M-Th 1pm-midnight, F-Sa 1pm-1am. MC/V.
Diamant, C. Asturies, 67 (☎932 17 02 18). Fontana. Walk down C. d’Asturies. This popular cafe and restaurant has cow-print coffee cups and a student-friendly atmosphere. Come in the morning for café con leche or at night to chew the cud with your friends. Sandwiches €3-5. Open daily 9am-3am. MC/V.
Sushi Itto, C. Londres, 103 (☎932 41 21 99; www.sushi-itto.es). A classy sushi place fusing Japanese cuisine with Western flavors in eclectic rolls. Nigiri €2.20-4.40. Entrees €7-19. 8-piece rolls €14. Delivery €2. Open M-Su 7:30-11:30pm. MC/V.
Ugarit, C. Verdi, 11 (☎932 17 86 22; www.ugarit.es). Fontana. Walk down C. de Asturies to C. Verdi and make a right; the restaurant is on the right. Tired of jamón and croquetas and looking for a change of pace? This Syrian restaurant, named after an ancient city, offers tabbuleh salads (€8), couscous (€13) and more. Dishes €3.90-13. Open daily 1pm-1am. MC/V.
La Llar de Foc, C. Ramon i Caja, 13 (☎932 84 10 25). Fontana. Walk down C. Gran de Gràcia to C. Montseny and make a left. This street turns into Ramón i Caja; the restaurant is on the left. Farm equipment on the walls and red-checkered tablecloths make this just the place to eat down-home, traditional dishes like escalavida (grilled vegetabels) and butifarra (white sausage). Colorful chalkboard menus outside the restaurant advertise a wide selection of carnes a la brasa. Entrees €5.10-14. Open 1-4pm and 8:30pm-midnight. MC/V.
Garda, C. Verdi, 15 (☎934 15 30 57). Fontana. Walk down C. de Asturies to C. Verdi and make a right; the restaurant is on the right. This romantic restaurant channels the decor and dishes of Provence in a uniquely Spanish way. Sip your wine at the bar or recline in a wicker chair and linger over a lamplit plate of camembert with small chorizos (€6.90). Entrees €6-15. Open daily 8:30pm-midnight. MC/V.
NUT, C. Verdi, 2 (☎932 10 86 40), at Pl. Revolució de Setembre 1868. Fontana, L3. This stone-walled restaurant could well be in the center of a pyramid: statues of pharaohs and a precariously hanging mummies watch over you as you eat tasty Egyptian fare. Try some hummus (€6), the ganog (eggplant with vegetables and lemon; €6), or the kuchari (rice with lentils and spices; €7.90). Dinner menú €9.90. Open daily 1-4pm and 8am-1am. MC/V.
Cafe Adonis 1940, Bailen 188 (☎934 59 12 92). Diagonal. Walk down C. de Corsega until you hit C. Bailen; Cafe Adonis 1940 is on the corner. This new restaurant-bar (opened in 2009) has industrial accents, like a rusted chandelier and bottle-lined shelves. Locals appreciate Adonis’s tapas ( patates braves; €2.50) and entrees (hamburgers; €7.50) at dinnertime. Wi-Fi available. Beer $1.90; mixed drinks €5.50. Open M-W 9am-1am, Th 9am-1:30am, F and Sa 9am-2:30am. MC/V.
Origens, C. Ramón y Cajal, 12 (☎932 13 60 31; www.lallavordelsorigens.com). Fontana. Near the Pl. of the Revolució de Setembre 1868. The “Llavor dels Origins” (this location is one of the mini-chain’s 4 restaurants) was, according to its menu, “born in 2000 with the intention of introducing to consumers quality Catalan cuisine and to spread the cultural and gastronomic values of Catalonia.” In keeping with this goal, the chic restaurant displays the work of regional photographers and serves up anxoves (anchovies; €4.28), amanida de llenties amb pop (salad with lentils and octopus; €5.90) and dishes for the less adventurous eater, like coca de tomaquet (tomato bruschetta; €5) and arros amb llet (rice pudding; €5). Leaving the restaurant, stop in the small front shop and buy the local wines, cheeses, and preserves. Dishes €2-8. Open daily 1:30-5pm and 8pm-1am. MC/V.
al. C. Encarnacio, 56 (☎932 19 82 13; www.alpunt.net). Joanic, L4. Follow C. Escorial for 2 blocks and turn left on C. Encarnació. Bring your dictionary to this restaurant; all the menus are in Catalan. The venue boasts local art for sale, white paper lanterns, and trendy patrons. Extensive wine list. Lunch entrees €11. Dinner entrees €7.90-€16. Desserts €6.20. Open for lunch Tu-F 1-3:30pm, Sa and Su 1-4pm. Open for dinner Tu-Th 8:30-11:30pm, F and Sa 8:30-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
Agappe, C. Riera de Sant Miquel, 19 (☎932 37 86 01; www.restauranteagappe.com). Diagonal. Gray walls, white ceilings, a stainless-steel counter, and enigmatic photographs of an empty burka floating in the desert give this restaurant a sophisticated and ethereal feel. Healthy fusion cuisine includes tuna carpaccio and curried chicken. Lunch entrees €12. Dinner entrees €25. Wheelchair-accessible. Open for lunch M-Su 1:30-4:30pm, for dinner W-Sa 6:30-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
Punda Maria S.L., between C. Benet Mercade and C. Cristobal Berga. Fontana. Walk downhill down C. Gran de Gràcia and make a right on C. Cigne; Punda Maria S.L. is at the end of Pl. Libertat, on the right. Would-be Rockys (Sylvester Stallone, not the raccoon), this is your mecca: the tiny shop has sold eggs and only eggs for over 100 years. Both chicken eggs and quail eggs are delivered fresh every M. The many teeming baskets of fresh eggs in the shop are eminently photographable. Small eggs €2; medium €2.10; large €2.50 per dozen.