Barcelona Vall D’Hebron And Horta-Guinardó

In this neighborhood that’s mostly residential and proud of it, restaurants are few and far between, but generally worth the trek. For groceries, visit the large Mercadona (www.mercadona.es; MC/V) at the intersection of Calle de Petrarca and Calle Duero. Calle de Petrarca is just down Passeig de Maragall from Horta or just up Passeig de Fabra i Puig from Vilapicina.

El Casinet 1903, Pl. Santa Eulalia. Virrei Amat. Walk down Pg. de Fabra i Puig and make a left onto C. d’Amilcar. The plaça will be just off this street, on the right. If you happen to be in the neighborhood, join the locals who pack into El Casinet for its out-of-this-world lunch menú (€8.90). Not fancy, but serves immensely satisfying, ample portions of home-cooked dishes like bacalao and fried chicken. And you can smoke! Open M-F 1-4pm. Cash only.
A Tavola!, Pl. d’Eivissa. (☎933 57 62 24) Horta. Walk up C. de Fulton to Pl. d’Eivissa. Cheerful trattoria and pizzeria. If you’re still hungry for Italian after dinner (which you shouldn’t be), head to the gelateria across the plaça. Caprese €6. Pizzas €8-12. Open daily noon-5pm and 8:30-11:30pm. MC/V.
La Panera, C. d’Horta, 69. Horta. Walk up C. de Fulton, which turns into C. d’Horta. Pass the branch near to the Metro stop and walk up the street to the less-crowded locale. Part bakery, part cafe, and part restaurant, La Panera is perfect for either a quick snack or a lengthy meal. The back room has cute mismatched tables and chairs. Lunch menú €9. Sandwiches €2-4. Open M-Sa 6am-9pm, Su 8am-9pm. MC/V.
Can Cortada, Av. de l’Estatut de Catalunya (☎934 27 23 15; www.gruptravi.com). Mundet, L3. Visible from Pg. de Vall d’Hebron. This impressive 11th-century building, originally a feudal defense tower, was converted into a farmhouse in the 15th century. You can still see the old underground dungeon tunnels and the Hhorse-feeding corner. Feast on hearty Catalan staples like the filete a la piedra —meat cooked on a hot stone tableside. The beautiful, flower-filled grounds are a pleasant break from the hot and dusty streets nearby. Be brave and try the frogs’ legs (€8.40). Entrees around €10. 3-course meal €18-27. Wheelchair-accessible. Open daily 1-4:45pm and 8pm-1:30am. Reservations recommended. AmEx/MC/V.
Can Travi Nou, C. Jorge Manrique (☎934 28 03 01; www.gruptravi.com). Mundet, L3. Exit Mundet to the left and turn right onto Pg. de Vall d’Hebron. Take a right at C. Jorge Manrique; it’s at the end of the street. Nestled in the shade, Can Travi Nou is housed in a 17th-century farmhouse. Outside, several shaded terraces overflow with bougainvillea, and inside, baskets of fresh produce give the large dining rooms a classic feel. Woody Allen set one of the restaurant scenes in Vicky Cristina Barcelona here. Try the pig’s feet with almonds (€27) or 1 of 4 types of bacalao (€22). 3-course meal €24-30. Wheelchair-accessible. Open M-Sa 1:30-4pm and 8:30-11pm, Su 1:30-4pm. Reservations recommended. AmEx/MC/V.
All i Oli, C. Alella, 3 (☎934 08 35 42; www.allioli.com). Fabra i Puig. Walk up C. Fabra i Puig and make a right onto C. de Velia. Make another quick right ono C. Alella. Overlook this restaurant’s cheesy decor and focus on its delicious food. Amid faux-stalactites and plastic statues, All i Oli serves up tasty Catalan dishes such as chuelton de buey (steak; €23) and caracoles “llauna” (snails; €14). All dishes come with all i oli —the most delicious of mayonaise-based sauces. Open M and W-Su 1-5pm, 8pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.