Barcelona Barri Gòtic

The Barri Gòtic is the oldest part of Barcelona; it came into being well before the grid layout in the rest of the city. The Barri Gòtic was settled during Roman times and continued to develop during the Romanesque and Gothic periods. Be sure to set a day aside to wander around the Barri Gòtic and explore the layers of history that have accumulated here.

Església Catedral De La Santa Creu I Santa Eulàlia (The Cathedral Of The Holy Cross And Saint Eulalia) . Three separate buildings have existed on this site: an AD fourth-century basilica, an 11th-century Romanesque church, and finally the present Gothic Cathedral, begun in 1298. The much-photographed facade comes from yet another era (1882), when it was added to the main structure by architect Josep Mestres. Mestres worked from a plan drawn up by Frenchman Carles Galtés de Ruán in 1408; this ensured a genuinely Gothic appearance.

In the cathedral’s plaça, seven stylized letters crafted by Joan Brossa spell out “Barcino,” commemorating the original Roman city settled on land that is now Barcelona. The Romans first marched through Spain in the third century BC in an effort to subdue North African powers in Carthage. They subjugated the resident Laietani and settled next to Montjuïc in 210 BC. In 15 BC, in honor of Augustus’s rule, the Romans gave the small town the unwieldy name of Colonia Julia Augusta Faventia Paterna Barcino.

As you enter the church, the cathedral choir is directly in front of you. The backs of the stalls are painted with 46 coats of arms commemorating the Chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece, an early United Nations of sorts, held in Barcelona in 1519. Behind the choir you’ll find the most important liturgical elements of the Cathedral, including the marble cathedra (bishop’s throne; thus “cathedral”), the altar with the bronze cross designed by Frederic Marès in 1976, and most notably the sunken crypt of Santa Eulalia, one of Barcelona’s patron saints. Discovered in the Santa Maria del Mar in AD 877, Santa Eulalia’s remains were transported here in 1339. The crypt holds a white marble sarcophagus that depicts scenes from the saint’s martyrdom at age 13.

Behind the altar, the Chapel of Sant Joan Baptista i Sant Josep features one of the most famous pieces of artwork in the Cathedral, the Transfiguration of the Lord altarpiece created by Bernat Martorell in 1450. The elevator to the roof is to the left of the altar, through the Capella de les Animes del Purgatori; it will give you a close-up view of the Cathedral’s spires, as well as a bird’s-eye view of the entire city.

Just to the right of the tomb is the exit into the peaceful cloister, home to the Fountain of St. Jordi. Thirteen white geese occupy the cloister, serving as a reminder of St. Eulalia’s age at the time of her death. The chapels in the cloister were once dedicated to the various guilds of Barcelona, and a few of them are still maintained today (including the shoe-makers’ and electricians’; see The Gilded Age). If you look back toward the interior of the Cathedral, you can see the only remaining piece of the Romanesque structure: the large, arched doorway leading back inside. The earlier fourth-century building was almost entirely destroyed by Muslim invaders in 985; what little is left is visible underground in the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat. Coming from the Cathedral, you’ll find the Cathedral museum at the near right corner of the cloister. The museum’s most notable holding is Bartolomé Bermejo’s renowned oil painting Pietà, the image of Christ dying in the arms of the Virgin; it’s in the Sala Capitular, to the left upon entrance. The museum also holds the famous monstrance (the receptacle used for holding the Host for communion), made of gold and silver and dripping with precious jewels. Legend has it that the monstrance was given to the cathedral by the last Catalan king, Martí, before he died childless in 1410.

The front of the Cathedral is also the place to catch an impromptu performance of the Sardana , the traditional Catalan dance. Performances generally occur Sunday mornings and afternoons after mass. (Jaume I, L4. In Pl. Seu, up C. Bisbe from Pl. St. Jaume. Cathedral open daily 8:30am-12:30pm, 1-5pm, and 5:15-7:30pm. Museum open daily 10am-12:30pm, 1-5pm, and 5:15-7pm. Elevator to the roof open M-Sa 10am-12:30pm and 1-6pm. Services Su at noon and 6:30pm. From 1-5pm €5 (includes cathedral, elevator, and museum), otherwise free. Museum €2. Elevator €2.50.)

Plaça De L’Angel. Outside Jaume I is the square where the main Roman gate into Barcelona (Barcino in antiquity) was once located. The plaça gets its name from the legend surrounding the transfer of St. Eulalia’s remains from Santa Maria del Mar to the cathedral: supposedly the martyred saint’s body suddenly became too heavy to carry, and an angel appeared in the plaça pointing a finger at one of the church officials, who, it turned out, had secretly broken off and stolen one of Eulalia’s toes. The angel statue (facing Via Laietania) commemorates the event, pointing with one arm to her own toe and with her other arm to the culprit. (Jaume I, L4.)

Roman Walls. Several sections of the northeastern walls of Roman Barcino are still standing near the cathedral. Carrer Tapineria, which runs from Pl. de l’Angel (to the left when you are facing Via Laietana) to Pl. Ramon Berenguer, serves both as parking space for mopeds and a viewing area from which you can see a large stretch of an AD fourth-century barricade under the Palau Reial Major. Continuing along C. Tapineria and making a left onto Av. de la Catedral lands you in Plaça Seu (in front of the Cathedral), where you can see the only intact octagonal corner tower left today (part of the Museu Diocesà). To the right of the cathedral are several more Roman towers and a reconstruction of one of the two aqueducts that supplied water to Barcino. (Jaume I, L4.)

Carrer Del Bisbe. In Roman times, C. del Bisbe served as the city’s main north-south thoroughfare. Today it is lined with various official buildings. As you walk from the Cathedral to C. del Bisbe, on the right is the entrance to the medieval Casa de l’Ardiaca, once home to the archdeacon and now the location of Barcelona’s newspaper archives. Stop and check out the mail slot designed by Domènech i Montaner in 1902, next to a sculpted tortoise with several swallows—according to one popular theory, an expression of his opinion of the postal service (supposedly as quick as a bird but actually as slow as a turtle).

Directly across from the Casa de l’Ardiaca is the Capella de Santa Llúcia; it is not well labeled, but you can enter through one of two small metal doors. The chapel was built in 1268 and is one of only a few remaining Romanesque churches in the entire city. Every December 13, the Day of Santa Llúcia, locals pay their respects to the saint, and the Fair of Sant Llúcia begins around the Cathedral.

Once you exit the chapel, make a left onto C. Bisbe. Walking down the street will take you past the Palau de la Generalitat on the right and the Casa de los Canónigos on the left, once home to the religious canons and now the office of the Catalan president. The two are connected by an elaborate neo-Gothic bridge built in 1929 as part of the restoration of the Barri Gòtic. (Jaume I, L4. Make an immediate left when you exit the main door of the Cathedral, before walking out onto the plaça. Walk to the end of C. de Santa Llúcia; it intersects C. del Bisbe.)

Roman Tombs. Located in the Upper Barri Gòtic, the Plaça de la Vila de Madrid contains one final Roman site worth visiting: a row of AD second- to fourth-century Roman tombs, lined up just as they originally were along a road leading out of Barcino. (Roman law forbade burial within the city walls.) Look for the tombs underneath the walkways over the pits; the recently restored tombs are significantly lower than the rest of the plaça, proof of how much the physical terrain of Barcelona has changed over the past 2000 years. (Liceu or Catalunya, L3. From Liceu, walk up Las Ramblas (away from the port) and turn right onto C. Portaferrissa. Take the first left onto C. d’En Bot; it will lead directly to the Pl. de la Vila de Madrid. From Catalunya, walk down Las Ramblas and turn left onto C. la Canuda. Make sure not to confuse C. la Canuda with C. Santa Anna; C. la Canuda slopes downward. Walk about 30 yards and Pl. de la Vila de Madrid is on the right.)

Plaça De Sant Jaume. Pl. de Sant Jaume has served as Barcelona’s political center since Roman times. Two of Catalunya’s most significant buildings have dominated the square since 1823: the Palau de la Generalitat, headquarters of Catalunya’s government, and the Ajuntament, or city hall. (Generalitat open 2nd and 4th Su of the month 10:30am-1:30pm. Closed Aug. Mandatory tours in Catalan, English, and Spanish every 30min. starting at 10:30am. Free. Ajuntament open 2nd and 4th Su 10am-1:30pm. Free.)

The Palau de la Generalitat is the center of Catalunya’s regional government and has served as the seat of power for 128 presidents of Catalunya, from Berenguer de Cruïlles in 1359 to current president José Montilla. The oldest part of the building is the Gothic facade in C. Bisbe, site of the original entrance; the government officials who commissioned it in 1416 were so happy with the St. Jordi medallion designed by Marc Safont that they paid him double what they had originally promised. Most of the center of the palace was added in the 16th and 17th centuries, including the beautiful Pati dels Tarongers (Patio of Oranges) and the Salón Dorado (Gold Room), a hall with an ornate gold ceiling and tapestries inspired by Petrarch depicting the triumph of honor over death and time over honor. Also notable is the Salón de Sant Jordi, whose cupola is visible from the Pl. St. Jaume. Part of the 17th-century additions, this extravagant room features a St. Jordi statue by Frederic Marès and is covered in allegorical paintings depicting the history of Catalunya. (Pl. St. Jaume. Enter to the right on C. Bisbe. Jaume I, L4. ☎902 400 012; www.gencat.cat/palau. Open for tours by appointment only the 2nd and 4th Su of every month 10:30am-1:30pm (application form available online).

The Ajuntament is Barcelona’s city hall and office of social-democratic Mayor Jordi Hereu. In the late 14th century, Barcelona’s elite Consell de Cent (Council of One Hundred) decided that the site of the original Roman forum would be the perfect place to construct their headquarters. The most impressive room in the building, the Saló de Cent, was completed in 1369; King Pere III had his first meeting with the Consell de Cent there in 1373. With red-and-gold brocaded walls, high arches, and a profusion of crystal chandeliers, it oozes with Catalan pride. Smaller but equally stunning is the Saló de la Reina Regente, designed in 1860 for plenary meetings and containing a half-dome stained-glass skylight. The Saló de las Crónicas wall decorations, created by Josep Marià Sert, depict episodes from Roger de Flor’s 14th-century expedition to the Far East. The entrance courtyard, meanwhile, further serves to glorify Catalan culture by displaying sculptures by some of Barcelona’s most famous artists, including Josep Llimona, Josep Subirachs, and Joan Miró. (Pl. St. Jaume. Jaume I, L4. Open Su 10am-1:30pm, last entry 1:15pm. Tours in English at 11am; Spanish at 10:30, noon, and 1pm; Catalan at 10, 11:30am, and 12:30pm, or as needed by large groups. Self-guided tours also allowed; pamphlet guides are available in Catalan, Spanish, English, and French. Free. )

Temple Of Augustus. At the end of C. Paradís, a plaque marks Mont Tàber, the highest point of Roman Barcino at 16.9m above sea level. Right behind the plaque, inside the protective walls of the Centre Excursionista Catalunya, a local outdoors club, are the four columns from the original Roman Temple of Augustus. These columns used to tower over the center of the ancient roman plaça. (Jaume I, L4. Inside the Centre Excursionista de Catalunya building. Enter Pl. St. Jaume from C. Bisbe and take a hairpin left turn into tiny C. Paradís. Follow this street around the corner and to the end. Open Oct.-May 10am-2pm and 4-8pm; June-Sept. 10am-8pm.)

Southern Roman Walls. In case you haven’t had your fill of Roman walls yet, the second concentrated stretch of them is located in what was the southeastern corner of the original city, near present-day Plaça Regomir and Plaça Traginers. This civic center hosts free art exhibitions in its front room and also showcases a substantial piece of an AD first-century Roman wall. The wall is visible from the street through a glass window but is also accessible from a ramp inside the building.

Soon after passing the civic center, turn left on C. Correu Vell. A tiny alley, C. de Groch, branches off to the left into a space where you can see a stretch of AD fourth-century wall and two square towers. If you then go back and take C. Correu Vell to its end, you will find yourself in the quiet Plaça Traginers, which hosts yet another substantial section of fourth-century walls. Check out the tower on the corner of C. Correu Vell and Baixada de Viladecols, right off Pl. Traginers. It was one of 78 towers that made up the second enclosing wall of Barcino in the AD fourth century, and unlike other Roman sites in the city, it has not yet been tainted by modern construction. (C. Regomir, 3. Jaume I, L4. From Pl. St. Jaume, take C. Ciutat; just as the street turns into C. Regomir, the Centre Pati Llimona will be on your left. ☎932 68 98 96. Centre Pati Llimona open M-F 9am-9:30pm and Sa 10am-2pm and 4-8pm. Free.)

Santa Maria Del Pi. As far as religious buildings go, the Catedral de la Santa Creu tends to usurp tourist attention in the Barri Gòtic. The most popular among locals, though, is the Església de Santa Maria del Pi, a small 14th-century church with exquisite Gothic stained glass. The three plaças surrounding the church (Pl. del Pi, Placeta del Pi, and Pl. de St. Oriol) are pleasant places for relaxing in the shade. (Liceu, L3. Take C. Cardenal Casañas from Las Ramblas. Open daily 8:30am-1pm and 4:30-8:30pm. Be sure to observe proper church etiquette. Free.)

Plaça Reial. The most crowded, happening plaça in the entire Barri Gòtic is the Pl. Reial, where tourists and locals congregate to eat and drink at night and to buy and sell at the Sunday morning flea market. Francesc Daniel Milona designed the plaça in one of Barcelona’s first spurts of productive (rather than oppressive) urban planning, replacing the decrepit Barri Gòtic streets with a large, architecturally cohesive plaça in the 1850s. Near the fountain in the center of the square there are two street lamps designed by Antoni Gaudí at the very beginning of his architectural career. The plaça is a popular place to grab a drink or meal, and some of the Barri Gòtic’s most happening and tourist-filled restaurants and bars reside here. Moreover, the regular police patrols make the Pl. Reial one of the safer places to hang out in Barcelona, day or night. (Liceu or Drassanes, L3.)

Other Plaças In The Barri Gòtic. Farther toward the water, off C. Ample, the much newer Plaça Mercé is a popular spot for weddings as well as for Barcelona’s soccer team: the Església de la Mercé on one side holds the image of the mother of God to which FCB players dedicate all of their successful games. One last plaça worth seeing is the Plaça de Sant Felip Neri, a right off C. Bisbe when you are coming from the Cathedral. It is peaceful and pretty today, but it has a rather morbid past: it was once the site of a Jewish cemetery, and in January of 1938 a Civil War bomb ripped through the area, killing 20 children. Shrapnel marks are still slightly visible on the facade of the Església de Sant Felip Neri. (Liceu, L3 or Jaume I, L4.)