Barcelona Las Ramblas

La Rambla is a world-famous cornucopia of street performers, fortune-tellers, pet and flower stands, and artists. A glut of tourists has led to a ton of restaurants and shops that cater to them. Watch your wallet; this is a pickpocketer’s paradise. The tree-lined thoroughfare consists of five distinct ramblas (promenades). Together, the Ramblas form one boulevard about one kilometer long, starting at Pl. de Catalunya and proceeding down to Rambla del Mar and the Mediterranean.

La Rambla De Les Canaletes. The portward journey along las Ramblas begins at the Font de les Canaletes, the glorified water pump for which la Rambla de les Canaletes is named; it is recognizable by the four faucets and the Catalan crests (red crosses next to red and yellow stripes) that adorn it. Legend has it that visitors who sample the water will fall in love with the city (if they haven’t already) and are bound to return to Barcelona someday. Stationed around here are the first of many living statues that line Las Ramblas during the day. Because of its symbolic position at the top of Las Ramblas on the Pl. de Catalunya, La Rambla de les Canaletes also sees a fair number of political demonstrations and Barça victory celebrations.

La Rambla Dels Estudis. You’ll hear the squawking of the caged residents of the next section of Las Ramblas before you see them. The next stretch of Las Ramblas, which extends to C. Carme and C. Portaferrissa, is often referred to as “La Rambla dels Ocells” (“Promenade of the Birds”). A number of stalls here sell birds of nearly every kind: roosters, parrots, ducks, and many, many parakeets. Guinea pigs, iguanas, fish, ferrets, tortoises, and pretty much every other kind of caged creature is also available. The official name of this stretch of rambla comes from the university that used to be located here; estudis is Catalan for “studies.”

La Rambla De Sant Josep. Here the screeching birds give way to the sunflowers, roses, and tulips on the segment of Las Ramblas commonly known as “La Rambla de les Flors” (“Promenade of the Flowers”). Vendors here have offered a variety of fragrant bouquets since the mid-1800s. In April, the flower stands are joined by book vendors in preparation for the Día de Sant Jordi, a Catalan variation on Valentine’s Day. On April 23, couples exchange gifts; women of all ages receive flowers while men receive books.

The hulking stone building at the corner of C. Carme is the Església de Betlem, a Baroque church whose interior never recovered from torching by anarchists during the Spanish Civil War. A bit farther down is the famous traditional Catalan market, Mercat de la Boqueria, officially named El Mercat de Sant Josep, the oldest of the city’s some 40 markets. At Pl. Boqueria, just before the Liceu metro stop, you’ll walk across Joan Miró’s circular pavement mosaic, created for the city in 1976 and now a popular meeting point.

La Rambla Dels Caputxins. Miró’s street mosaic marks the beginning of La Rambla dels Caputxins, the most user-friendly of the five Ramblas and the first of Las Ramblas to be converted into an actual promenade. The pedestrian area widens, and the majestic trees provide a bit more shade. Across from the recently renovated opera house, the Liceu, a strip of restaurants with outdoor seating vie for tourist euro, offering unremarkable and fairly expensive food.

La Rambla De Santa Monica. Following the tradition of naming the parts of Las Ramblas after the goods sold there, this stretch would most likely be nicknamed La Rambla de las Prostitutas. At night, women of the oldest profession patrol this wide area leading up to the port, beckoning passersby with loud kissing noises and lots of cleavage. During the day, however, this rambla distinguishes itself with skilled practitioners of a different art. These virtuosos can whip up dead-on caricatures in just five minutes. Also along this stretch you are bound to see peoople playing trile, a shell game with three little boxes and a tiny ball. Careful—these guys know how to manipulate that little bolita and they often have accomplices in the audience to help rope people in. This part of the rambla will take you all the way down to the Monument A Colom, and beyond that is the short Rambla del Mar leading to Port Vell.

Gran Teatre Del Liceu. After burning down for the second time in 1994, the Liceu was rebuilt and expanded dramatically; a tour of the building includes not just the original 1847 Sala de Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), but also the 1999 Foyer (a curvaceous bar/lecture hall/small theater). The five-level, 2292-seat theater is considered one of Europe’s top stages, adorned with palatial ornamentation, gold facades, and sculptures. A brief visit will give you a worthwhile glimpse into the majesty of the theater, but to really experience the place, try to catch a performance. Discount tickets are often available. (La Rambla, 51-59, by C. Sant Pau. Liceu, L3. ☎934 85 99 00; www.liceubarcelona.com. Box office open M-F 10am-1pm and 2-6pm or by ServiCaixa. Short 20min. non-guided visits daily 11:30am-1pm every 30min, €4. 1hr. tours 10am; €8.70, seniors and under 26 €6.70.)

La Boqueria (Mercat De Sant Josep). La Boqueria is just the place to pick up that hard-to-find animal part you’ve been looking for, plus any other delicacies you’ve been craving. A traditional Catalan mercat —and the largest outdoor market in Spain—located in a giant, all-steel Modernista structure, La Boqueria is a sight to behold. Specialized vendors sell produce, fish, organs, whole pigs, cheese, nuts, wine, and sweets from a seemingly infinite number of independent stands inside. A few excellent cafes have terraces outside and serve dishes incorporating fresh ingredients from the market. (La Rambla, 89. Liceu. A plate of seafood will generally cost €6-15, mixed seafood platter €20-25, for two €30-37.Open M-Sa 8am-8pm.)

Palau De La Virreina. Once the residence of a Peruvian viceroy, this 18th-century palace houses temporary art exhibits, often featuring contemporary audio-visual installations. Also on display are the latest incarnations of the 10-15 ft. tall dolls which have taken part in the city’s Carnival celebrations since 1399. The imposing couple Jaume and Violant, dressed in long, regal robes, are the undisputed king and queen of the Carnival parade. The cultural institute here serves as information headquarters for Barcelona’s cultural festivals. Las Ramblas, 99, at C. Carme. Liceu, L3. ☎933 16 10 00. Open Tu-F 11am-2pm and 4-8pm, Sa-Su and holidays 11am-8pm. Free.

Monument A Colom. Ruis i Taulet’s monument to Columbus towers at the port end of La Rambla. Nineteenth-century Renaixença enthusiasts convinced themselves that Columbus was Catalan, not Italian. The statue points proudly in a mysterious direction—not to the Americas, but out over the horizon toward Libya—which some take as error, and others as directions to what would have been Columbus’s first refueling point. Take the elevator for an excellent and broad view of the city from a somewhat cramped lookout-point. (Portal de la Pau. Drassanes. Elevator open daily 9am-8:30pm. €2.50, children and over 65 €1.50.)