Barcelona El Raval

Palau Güell. Gaudí completed Palau Güell—a Modernista residence built for wealthy patron Eusebi Güell i Bacigalupi (the industrialist, landowner and politician of Parc Güell fame)—in 1890. Güell spared no expense on this house, which, as the only building that Gaudí actually completed that has not undergone any major modifications, is considered to be one of the first true representations of the architect’s revolutionary style. Picasso, who famously wanted to “send Gaudí and the Sagrada Família to hell,” painted his Blue Period work across the street. Palau Güell was a private residence for the Güell family until 1936. During the Spanish Civil War, the palau was turned into a barracks; this left it in such a state of disrepair that its then-owner (Eusebi’s daughter) turned it over to the Barcelona city council. Because the building is currently under restoration, visitors can see only the main facade, the ground floor, and the basement—a detailed description of the chimneys that have been renovated, however, is available online. (C. Nou de La Rambla, 3-5. Liceu. ☎933 17 39 74; www.palauguell.cat. Partial entrance only. Open Tu-Sa 10am-2:30pm. Free.)

Eglesia De Sant Pau Del Camp. Although this small, ancient stone church may not impress at first glance, art and design students will note the decorated columns, vaulted ceilings, and tiny, intricately detailed stained-glass windows that together make this medieval marvel one of the most important examples of Romanesque architecture in the city of Barcelona. Guifré Borrell, the church’s founder and the son of Wilfred the Hairy (see Life & Times,), was buried here in AD 911. When first founded in AD 912, the church stood in the country, well outside the city walls (thus its name, Sant Pau “of the countryside”). The current church building, constructed in the 12th century, is very much a part of the city. ( Paral·lel L2/3, at the intersection of C. Sant Pau and Carretes, 2 blocks off Av. Paral·lel. Open M-Sa 10am-1:30pm and 4-7:30pm. €2.)

La Biblioteca De Catalunya. This library of Catalan studies, housed in the Antic Hospital of Santa Creu of Barcelona (a building that has been slowly restored over the past 15 years), is a cool and calm oasis in the heart of the city. The old Hospital has high, arched stone ceilings that juxtapose nicely with the building’s recently completed carrels. The library’s collection, founded in 1907 and once housed in the Generalitat, aims to bring together all the most important documents of Catalan history. While the library’s main study room is open only to scholars, a part of the room with benches and a short video about Catalan history is reserved for those come to see the library or to take a break from the tumult of surrounding Raval. (Carrer de l’Hospital, 56. Liceu. www.bnc.edu. Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa-Su 9am-2pm.)

Universitat De Barcelona. Overlooking Gran Via, this palatial 19th-century building housed the University of Barcelona until much of its campus moved north to Pedralbes in the 1950s. Today, the philosophy, religion, mathematics, and language departments remain in the regal hallways. The grounds include several beautiful, shady courtyards lined by arches and columns and filled with trees, ponds, and fountains. The library is open to the public for consultation; bring a picture ID. For those looking to sublet a room in a nearby apartment, check the bulletin boards scattered around on the ground floor. (Pl. Universitat. Universitat, L1/2/3. www.ub.edu. Open M-F 8:30am-8:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-8:30pm.)