Barcelona Pedralbes And Les Corts

The sights in Pedralbes and Les Corts, though distant from the city center, are worth traveling for.

Monestir De Pedralbes. Set amid the low-rise apartments of Zona Alta, this monastery makes a surprisingly tranquil, refreshing, and historically interesting break for those with the time to leave the glamour and chaos of downtown Barcelona. Devout Queen Elisenda of Montcada founded the monastery in 1327 to atone for her earthly sins. She chose the name Pedralbes from the Latin “petras albas” (“white stones”). The first stone was put in place in March 1326, and by May 1327, the first community of nuns moved in. These were the Poor Clare nuns, the female branch of the Franciscan order. When noble women of the time became widows, they had two choices—remarry or become a nun. Those who chose the latter option often brought with them family riches; because of this, monasteries tended to accumulate wealth and art. Elisenda of Montcada was the fourth and final wife of King James II, and when he died a year after the complex’s completion, she chose to leave the court and live near the monastery. When she died in 1364, she left her substantial inheritance to the monastery, and requested to be buried there. Her tomb depicts her in two lights: in the figure that faces the church, she is dressed as a queen, and in the figure that faces the cloister, as a penitent and widow.

Inside the monastery, you can peek into the lives that the nuns led centuries ago; the courtyard, infirmary, kitchen, and dining hall have all been elegantly restored and opened to the public. Though the Poor Clares live on, they have recognized the historical value of the old monastery and bequeathed it to the City of Barcelona; they now reside in adjoining facilities. Inside the old monastery, the cloister (the central courtyard) boasts a garden and a fragrant exhibit. Around the cloister, one can see a series of day cells—the nuns’ own personal retreats, diminutive in size but perfect in detail.

Also worth seeing is the Dormidor. Once the nuns’ sleeping quarters, today, this cavernous hall holds the exhibition “The Treasures of the Monastery.” The collections of altarpieces and choir books are intricately crafted, gilded, and in general, dazzling. While the monastery once housed the impressive Thyssen-Bornemisza collection, it no longer does; this collection has been moved to the MNAC on Montjuïc. The monastery’s orange trees, splashing fountains, and shaded walkways create a rare sense of tranquility. (Baixada del Monestir, 9. Palau Reial, L3. Go north on Av. Pedralbes from Pl. Pius XII (the street is not well labeled, but it is the major roadway) and follow road signs to the monastery. Buses #22, 63, 64, 75 (school days only), 78. ☎932 56 34 34; www.museuhistoria.bcn.cat. €6, students €4. 1st Su of every month and every Su 3-8pm free. Open daily 10am-8pm.)

Palau Reial De Pedralbes. Located around the corner from the University of Barcelona, the Palau Reial de Pedralbes and its quiet park provide a secluded getaway from the rest of the city. The Palau itself, commissioned by the Güell family for the King of Spain (Alfonso XII) to make their father Eusebi Güell a count, was given to Spain at the International Exposition of 1929. The pale orange mansion is tastefully designed and houses the Museu de les Arts Decoratives and the Museu de Ceràmica. When you walk in, make sure to glance up and examine the impressive ceiling mural. Only real Gaudí enthusiasts will want to check out the much-lauded drinking fountain. The architect constructed it in his early years, and it pales in comparison to his more grandiose works. The fountain is off to the left of the main path to the palace, in a small forest of bamboo shoots. The simple design is a rather small twisting iron D dragon that spouts water over a Catalan shield. Above, a bust of Hercules surveys the proceedings. “Rediscovered” in 1983 after decades of neglect, the fountain was restored and now provides water to the numerous students picnicking in the park. (Av. Diagonal, 686. Palau Reial, L3. At the far end of the park.)

Finca Güell. The finca (farm) was built in 1883, when Gaudí’s patron Eusebi Güell extended his estate into Pedralbes. At one point, these pavilions were Güell’s summer estate and a working farm. Gaudí recreated the garden of the Hesperides as it is described in L’Atlantida by Jacint Verdaguer i Santaló, a great Catalan poet; thus the orange tree atop the pillar at the garden’s entrance and the D dragon that Gaudí created for this estate’s gate. Those disappointed with the relatively unimposing Gaudí iron dragon in the Parc del Palau Reial should head up Av. Pedralbes to see this more menacing monster. Meticulously welded, the animal spreads its wings across the front fence of the farm, flashing fearsome fangs to the curious ones who might be tempted to cross. (Av. Pedralbes, 7. Palau Reial, L3. A 5min. walk from Av. Diagonal, on the left. ☎933 17 76 52. Owned by the University of Barcelona and closed to the public except for guided visits M-F 10:15am and 12:15pm. Call for reservations.)