Prachuap Khiri Khan Overview

Flanked by verdant rock formations jutting from the bay, the pretty fishing town of Prachuap Khiri Khan offers travelers a rare treat. Colorful fishing boats fill the harbor, and along the shore you’re more likely to see squid drying than fellow farang bumming on the beach. With inexpensive hotel rooms and friendly locals, the few tourists who come here are consistently charmed. The attractive coastline near town, with its beaches, wats, and boat-building village, is ripe for exploration by bicycle or motorbike.

• Trains: Train station (☎032 611 175), on Maharaj Rd. right where Kong Kiat Rd ends. To: Bangkok (5hr., 12 per day, 168-225฿); Chumphon (3hr., 11 per day, 34-358฿); Hua Hin (1hr., 12 per day, 49฿); Phetchaburi (3hr., 11 per day, 31-165฿); Surat Thani (5-6hr., 9 per day, 171-228฿ 2nd-3rd cl.).
• Buses: A/C buses to Bangkok (4½hr., every hr., 246-266฿) leave from Phitak Chat Rd., between Kong Kiat and Mitringam Rd. Most Bangkok-bound buses stop at Hua Hin (1hr., 80฿). The regular bus station, on Phitak Chat Rd. across from the Inthira Hotel near the night market, runs buses to Chumphon (4-5hr., every hr. 8am-4pm, 140฿). For Surat Thani, catch a southbound bus from Bangkok (7hr., about every 1½hr., 230฿) on the highway 3km east of Prachuap (motorcycle taxi 50฿), or take a bus to Chumphon and transfer there.
• Local Transportation: Downtown can be traversed on foot. For longer distances, rent a bicycle or motorbike or look for tuk-tuks. Any trip around town should be no more than 20฿. Tuk-tuks to Ao Manao 30฿, to Khao Khan Kradai Cave 40-50฿.
• Rentals: There is a small store without a name at the corner of Kong Kiat Rd. and Maharaj Rd., on your right when you reach the train station, that rents motorbikes for 200฿ per 24hr., with passport deposit. Open daily 8am-4pm. Prachuap Suk Hotel south of downtown also rents motorbikes at the same price and bicycles for 50฿ per 24hr.

Orientation And Practical Information

Prachuap Khiri Khan is extremely easy to navigate. It is laid out roughly in a grid, and the downtown area can be traversed on foot in 15min. The waterfront road, Chai Thaleh, runs north-south on the eastern edge of town while Khao Chong Krajok, Prachuap’s wat- topped mountain, rises on the northern edge of the waterfront. Between the train tracks and the waterfront (and running parallel to them) are, from west to east: Maharaj Road, Phitak Chat Road, Sarachip Road, and Suesuk Road. Perpendicular to these is Kong Kiat Road, running from the train station in the west to the pier in the east. Mitringam Road, south of Kong Kiat Rd., hosts the day market.

The  Tourist Information Office, well-marked, 200m north of the pier between Suesuk Rd. and Chai Thaleh Rd., gives out maps, and may be the friendliest, most English-proficient tourist office in Thailand. (☎032 611 491. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm.) Bangkok Bank, on the corner of Sarachip Rd. and Mitringam Rd., has currency exchange and a 24hr. ATM. (Open M-F 8:30am-3:30pm.) Other 24hr. ATMs are dotted along Sarachip Rd. and Phitak Chat Rd. Other services include: police, 15 Kong Kiat Rd. (☎032 611 148), at the corner of Kong Kiat and Sarachip Rd.; Prachuap Hospital (☎032 602 060), on the left, three and a half long blocks down Phitak Chat Rd. from Kong Kiat Rd.; Internet access at VIP Internet (sign is in Thai), on Kong Kiat Rd., half a block east of the train station (20฿ per hr., open 8am-midnight), and at Yuttichai Hotel a little farther east on Kong Kiat Rd. (30฿ per hr.). Other Internet stores can be found along Suesuk Rd.; most are open from 8am to midnight. There is a GPO at 44 Suesuk Rd. (☎032 611 035), at the intersection of Suesuk and Mitringam Rd., by the market. (Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-noon.) Postal Code: 77000.

Accommodations

Though Prachuap Khiri Khan has limited selection of accommodations, it does have some excellent budget options for those looking to catch a little shut-eye after a long day at the beach.

• Yuttichai Hotel (☎032 611 055), along Kong Kiat Rd., a 2min. walk from the train station, on the right. Everything here is impeccably clean. Pale colors and high ceilings give the spacious rooms an airy feel. Breakfast 15-30฿. Free maps of town. Singles 160฿, with bath 200฿; doubles 220/300฿.
• Prachuap Suk Hotel, 69-71 Suesuk Rd. (☎032 611 019). From the train station, go down Kong Kiat Rd. for 300m., turn onto Suesuk Rd., and walk for 3 long blocks, past the market on the left. A small, well-maintained hotel; near the water and in a quieter location than Yuttichai. The rooms are freshly scrubbed and have private bath. Fairly large singles with fan 200฿; doubles with A/C 350฿.
• The Inthira Hotel, 120 Phitak Chat Rd. (☎032 611 418). From the train station, go down Kong Kiat Rd., and take the first left; near the night market. This mediocre hotel is conveniently located and has adequate rooms with cold water bath and fan. Singles 200฿, with A/C 300฿, doubles 250/350฿.

Food

Cheap, delicious seafood is plentiful in Prachuap Khiri Khan. The day market is on Mitringam Rd., close to the post office. In the evenings, the night food stalls, in the parking lot area north of the police station, between Sarachip Rd. and Phitak Chit Rd., serve excellent seafood. (Open daily 5pm-midnight.) Look out for roasted hollow sugar cane stuffed with a delicious mixture of sticky rice and coconut (10฿).

• Ma Prow Restaurant, 44 Chai Thaleh Rd. (☎032 551 208), 150m. south of the pier. Serves exquisite, decently priced Thai curries and seafood to a mostly farang crowd. The Pad Char fish (120฿) explains why people rave about authentic Thai food. Great nightime view of the bay from the patio. Open 10am-midnight.
• Super Restaurant, on Kong Kiat Rd. across the street from Yutichai Hotel. This immaculate and unexpectedly chic eatery has flat screen TVs and stays open late. The mostly Chinese dishes are reasonably priced (60-100฿). Open 4pm-3am.

Sights And Beaches

Prachuap Khiri Khan affords several secluded and remarkable sights.

 Khao Chong Krajok (Mirror Tunnel Mountain).   It is 421 steps through a gauntlet of aggressive monkeys to the golden chedi of this hilltop wat , which offers a glorious 360˚ panorama of the surrounding bay and province. Living off the corn and bananas fed to them by Thai tourists, the swarms of brazen monkeys are a real challenge. Regardless, the view from the top (where there are no monkeys) is spectacular. (On the northern tip of town overlooking the bay. The steps start on Sarachip Rd., opposite the wat. Open 24hr. Free.)

Wat Khao Tham Khan Kradai And Caves. Two impressive cave systems overlook the Ao Khan Kradai Bay. About 20 steps up during the initial ascent of the mountain, on the right, is another set of steps. These shell-paved stairs lead to the first and smaller cave that holds several seated Buddha statues. Another superior complex holds two spectacular reclining Buddhas and offers a view of the bay. This cave is a testament to the Thais’ ability to put enormous Buddhas into caves of all shapes and sizes. Before heading up the steps, find a monk at the base of the mountain to turn on the cave lights. You won’t always be able to find a monk, so a flashlight is a good idea. Beware of bats in these caves. (8km north of town. Motorcycle taxi 80-100฿ round-trip. If driving, head north of Prachuap past Khao Chong Krajok, cross over a bridge into Ao Noi District, turn right at the blue sign for Ao Noi Seaview Resort, and follow that road until its end. There are no signs for the cave. Free.)

Ao Manao (Manao Beach).  Ao Manao is a scenic 2km beach enclosed by cliffs only accessible via the adjoining Thai airforce base. A golf course, campground, and shooting range are all in the vicinity. Chairs under umbrellas are 10฿. Inner-tubes (10฿) are available for visitors, and excellent seafood stalls (25-80฿) are located at the food court. (6km south of Prachuap Khiri Khan. Follow Sarachip Rd. south from town. Motorcycle taxi 40฿ 1 way. Foreigners must sign in and out of the base.)