A major port city and the end of the Atlantic railway line, Puerto Limón is Costa Rica’s gateway to the Caribbean. Its large population of laborers from the West Indies and China, combined with a growing industrial economy and a laid-back Rasta vibe, maintains a balanced, calm atmosphere despite the constant action. Though the streets are more prone to crime after dark, the daytime is peaceful and beautiful, with vendors hawking everything from Bob Marley bags to hunks of meat in the mercado municipal and children frolicking feet from the Carribean at waterfront parks. Most visitors to Limón stay just long enough to catch a boat or bus on to Tortuguero, Cahuito, or Puerto Viejo, but those that take time to explore the city will come to appreciate its vibrant, diverse community. Larger, busier, and more complex than most Caribbean towns, it is still reasonably easy to navigate. The constant stream of shoppers, vendors, and loitering pedestrians means you will never have to look far for a helping hand.
NatureAir (☎2232 7883) and Sansa (☎2666 0306) run flights to and from San José and other destinations. The airstrip, reachable by taxi, is 4km south of town. Auto Transport Caribeños and Prosersa buses (in San José ☎2222 0610, in Limón ☎2758 0385 or 2758 2575) leave from the spic-and-span station Gran Terminal del Caribe, Av. 2, C. 7/8, three blocks west of the mercado municipal, and go to: Guápiles (2hr., approx. every 45min. 6am-6pm, ¢1195); Moín (20min., every hr. 5:30am-7pm, ¢230); San José (3hr., every 30min. 5am-7pm and Su 8pm, ¢2000); Siquirres (1hr., every hr. 5am-7pm, ¢800). Buses depart from the spread out, marked stands across from the MEPE station (☎2758 1572 or 2758 3522), one block north of the northeast side of the market. Buy tickets at the cashier for buses to: Manzanillo (2hr.; 6, 10:30am, 3, 6pm; ¢1800); Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (1½hr., every hr. 5am-6pm, ¢1330) via Cahuita (45min., ¢890); the Panamanian border at Sixaola (3hr., every hr. 5am-6pm, ¢2345). All the Sixaola buses pass through Bribrí (1½hr., ¢1625). Taxis line the north side of the Gran Terminal; a taxi to Moín should cost about US$4, but many taxi drivers will try to charge as much as US$8. Be prepared to bargain hard for a good deal, especially if you don’t speak Spanish.
Like most major Costa Rican cities, Puerto Limón is laid out in a grid of north-south calles and east-west avenidas, but finding street signs is nearly impossible. Orient yourself by the mercado municipal, Av. 2/3, C. 3/4. Most hotels and restaurants are within a few blocks of the mercado, which serves as the center for Limón’s business and social activities. A walled-in area runs along the north side of town, while the east is bound by the shores of the Caribbean.
Budget accommodation is par for the course in Puerto Limón, but beware of any ultra-cheap options; some of the city’s hotels are quite run-down and others have noticeable traffic of prostitutes or drug sales. Make sure your hotel of choice has an electric lock, and ask to see rooms before agreeing to pay. All of the hotels listed below are tourist-friendly.
Limón’s cosmopolitan atmosphere has contributed to its diverse selection of dining options. Visitors can enjoy some of Costa Rica’s best Chinese food at the many Chinese-owned establishments near the center, hunker down with tasty Caribbean or traditional tico soda fare, and even watch their health at one of the many macrobiotic and healthfood eateries in town. Most of Limón’s restaurants are within three or four blocks of the mercado municipal in the center of town, 300m west of the beach. (Open M-Sa dawn-dusk.) A supermarket, Más X Menos, is across from the northeast corner of the market. (☎2798 1792. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 9am-5pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.)
Nightlife in Limón is lively and filled with partying limonenses, but being out alone after dark is not advisable; the safer bet is to go out in a group. During carnaval in mid-October, nightlife gets really wild, as the city fills with tourists from around the world looking to enjoy parades, music, and parties at all hours of the day. Ninja’s Bar, on the north side of the cathedral, overwhelms guests with a greenhouse entrance, three bars, seven TVs, house beats, and what feels like more lights than New York’s Times Square at New Year’s. Roofed-in stalls near the entrance cater to patrons seeking privacy. (☎2758 2833. Beer with complimentary bocadillo ¢800. Open M-Sa 2pm-late.) Discoteca Aquarius, a dance club on the top floor of the Hotel Acón, across the street from Más X Menos, pounds reggae and salsa rhythms into the night. (☎2758 1010. Cover ¢1000. Sa 8pm-midnight women free and 2-for-1 drinks. Open Th-Sa 10pm-4am.)
Vendors at the mercado municipal hawk jewelry, clothing, electronics, and typical Caribbean fare: coconuts, bananas, fish, and lobster. The market is open from dawn to dusk, though its numerous sodas often stay open later. While the mercado municipal seems calmer and more organized than most central mercados, it’s still pickpocket territory. The most spectacular sight in Limón is the new Catholic cathedral being built on the site of the old Vicariato Apostólico. Construction began in November 2001, but progress has been slow due to issues with funding. Even unfinished, the cathedral’s towering spire and modern, angular design are still impressive. Parque Vargas, in the southeast corner of town, is a picturesque refuge from the town’s bustling center. Waves pound against the seawall while children enjoy the nearby playground equipment. To get to the parque, head two blocks east from the southeast corner of the mercado, toward the dense, towering coconut palms; you can see the seawall from the market’s edge. Be sure to check out the impressive seaside mural by artist Guadalupe Alvarea. Though the paint is chipping, the work remains a powerful depiction of Limón’s rich and tangled history. On a clear day, the Isla de Uvita, 1km away, is visible from a mirador in the northeast edge of the park.
A young crowd looking for waves and rays usually heads over to Playa Bonita, 4km northwest of Limón. On one side, the water is calm and perfect for wading; on the other, broad, powerful waves give surfers the lift they need. Though it is close to the town center, the road to Playa Bonita has little room for pedestrians and drivers tend to speed precariously along, so it is a better idea to take the Moín bus from the Gran Terminal del Caribe (every 30min. 5:30am-6:30pm, ¢230). Buy a ticket at the window and get off at one of the first stops (ask the driver and other passengers if you’re unsure). You can also take a taxi (¢1500). While you’re there, enjoy a meal or a trago on the outdoor patio of Reina’s Restaurant , overlooking the crashing waves and dense forest beyond. ( Casados ¢2200-2800. Seafood dishes ¢4000-6000. Open daily 8am-9:30pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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