Puerto Viejo De Talamanca Overview

Life in Puerto Viejo combines the cosmopolitan air of cities like Puerto Limón and Heredia with the relaxed, calm pace of life that exemplifies the Caribbean Coast. A growing expat and local population dedicate their time to finding the best ways to relax; surfing, snorkeling, sunbathing, and just chilling are the main enticements here. Arguably the most Afro-Caribbean of Costa Rica’s cities, Puerto Viejo has transformed itself in recent years into a tourist hub and one of the most affluent, commercially active towns on the coast. However, as the lingering sounds of reggae and ocean waves can attest, the city’s affluence hasn’t damaged the way of life at all; in Puerto Viejo, slower is better, relaxing is ideal, and the best place to be is the sunniest beach or the biggest breaks.

Buses: Buy bus tickets at the small MEPE office across from the basketball court (☎2750 0023) or on the bus. Buses head to: Bribrí (30min., 16 per day 6:30am-8:15pm, ¢360); Limón (1hr., 12 per day 6:30am-7:30pm, ¢830) via Cahuita (30min., ¢365); Manzanillo (30min.; 7, 7:30am, noon, 4:30, 7:30pm; ¢315) via Punta Uva (30min., ¢170); San José (4hr.; 7:30, 9, 11am, 4pm; ¢2545); the Panamanian border at Sixaola (1-1½hr., 12 per day 6:30am-8:15pm, ¢810).
Taxis: Though most of Puerto Viejo’s attractions are within walking or biking distance of each other and bus service is fairly extensive, taxis are available in front of the bus stop. For private taxis, call OMP Private Transport Services (☎2750 0439 or 8827 4219 or 2750 0562) or Taxi Kale (☎8340 2338).

Orientation And Practical Information

The main road comes in from the west, crosses the bridge near an abandoned barge, and cuts through town before heading east to Manzanillo. The bus drops people off diagonally across from the ATEC office in the center of town.

Tourist Information: Many tour offices overstress the need for a guide; a more neutral source may be your hotel owner. You can also take your questions to the Talamanca Association for Ecotourism and Conservation ( ATEC; ☎2750 0398; www.greencoast.com), in the center of town. This nonprofit organization was founded to promote local tourism while preserving the region’s heritage and ecology. Offers tours of Yorkín, Shiroles, and Kékôldi Reserves with native guides (half-day tours start at US$25). Photocopy services (¢20 per page). Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 10am-6pm.
Banks:
- Banco de Costa Rica (☎2284 6600), 200m south of the bus stop. 24hr ATM. Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 8am-noon. Cirrus/MC/V.
- Los Almendros (☎2750 0235), around the block from ATEC. Exchanges US$ (1% commission) and cashes traveler’s checks and money orders (2.5% commission for colónes, 5% for US$). Cash advances available on AmEx/MC/V with a passport (11% commission). Open daily 7am-6pm.
- Comisariato Manuel León (☎2750 0422; fax 2750 0246), on the beach 1 block west and 2 blocks north of ATEC. Offers similar services at similar rates. Open M-Sa 8am-5pm, Su 8am-3pm.
Laundry: (☎2750 0360), 1 block west and 1 block south of ATEC. Wash US$3; dry US$3. Locals or long-term tourists often negotiate special rates. Open M-Sa 9am-7pm.
Police: (☎2750 0230, emergencies 911), 1 block east and 1 block north of ATEC facing the beach. Open 24hr.
Red Cross: The closest one is in Bribrí (☎2751 0008). There is also one in Limón (☎2758 0125 or 911). English spoken at both. Both open 24hr.
Pharmacy: Farmacía Amigas (☎2750 0698), 200m west of ATEC, across from the post office. Open M-Sa 9am-noon and 1-6:45pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.
Medical Services: (☎2750 0079), next to Banco de Costa Rica. Open 24hr.
Telephones: ATEC offers international phone service. US$0.31 to North America; US$0.40 to Central America and Caribbean; US$0.56 to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, US$1 to other countries. Real World Forest (☎2750 0365), next to ATEC. Has international phone service for approx. the same rates as ATEC. Open daily 7am-9pm. There are pay phones right outside and more across from the MEPE ticket office.
Internet Access: Real World Forest and ATEC both have quick connections for ¢20 per min. Puerto Viejo Tours offers access for ¢1500 per hr.
Post Office: (☎2750 0698), 200m west of ATEC. Open M-F 8am-noon and 1-5:30pm.

Accommodations

Puerto Viejo offers every type of accommodation imaginable. Luxury lodges and resorts abound, but budget travelers will find plenty of options in the numerous cabinas in town and along the road toward Manzanillo.

Jacaranda Cabinas (☎2750 0069), 1 block west and 2 blocks south of ATEC. Bright yellow, hand-painted rooms, a cool veranda and lush gardens, and mosaic pathways greet weary travelers at this central hotel. Rooms are immaculate, with private hot-water baths, mosquito nets, and ceiling fans. Pricier rooms have patios with hammocks. Communal kitchen open 7am-9pm. Massages offered in the on-site pagoda (professional reiki or shiatsu US$50 per hr.). Singles start at US$25; doubles US$32; triples US$35; quads US$40. Commission of 16% with credit card payment. AmEx/MC/V.
Rocking J’s (☎2750 0657; www.rockingjs.com), 800m east of town. Massive, occasionally overwhelming, and almost always cheap, Rocking J’s attracts a crowd of surfers, spring-breakers, and tight-budget travelers in its sprawling complex of hammocks, tents, dorms, library, movie area, bar, restaurant, and grassy quad. Located right next to the beach, the hostel is perfect for travelers who can’t bear to leave the surf or the party—just don’t expect much quiet or privacy. Tent space US$4, with equipment rental US$6; hammocks US$5; cabinas US$7, with private bath US$20; treehouses US$60.
Hotel Puerto Viejo (☎2750 0620; www.hotelpuertoviejocr.4t.com), 1 block east and ½ block south of ATEC. Popular with traveling ticos, Hotel Puerto Viejo offers cheap rooms in the center of town with bright communal baths. The hotel has free gated-in parking, and a massive communal kitchen and dining area. For more comfort and quiet, ask for a room with a fan, away from the communal spaces near the entrance. US$5-10 per person, depending on season and availability.
Cabinas Casa Verde (☎2750 0015; www.cabinascasaverde.com). From ATEC, continue 1 block east on the main road and turn right, then turn left at the 1st street; the entrance gate is clearly marked. Though it’s in the center of town, Cabinas Casa Verde has an air of idyllic relaxation, with a rock-rimmed pool, frog farm, and tropical garden nestled in between 4 groups of cabinas. Cheaper rooms have shared baths; pricier rooms have private baths and some have cable TV. All baths have hot-water. Singles US$32-60; doubles US$40-72; triples US$42-86; quads US$78-98. AmEx/D/MC/V.

Food

Puerto Viejo is one of the Caribbean Coast’s most popular destinations, and many visitors never manage to leave. The town’s diversity is reflected in the abundance of dining options, from rondón to more exotic curries, pastas, and other fine cuisine. A supermarket, Super el Buen Precio, is opposite the bus stop, facing the beach. (☎2750 0060. Accepts payment in US$ and gives colónes in exchange for a decent rate. Open daily 6:30am-8:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Chile Rojo (☎2750 0250), currently located at the beginning of the road toward Manzanillo but moving within the year to a larger, 2-story location across from ATEC. The picnic tables fill up nightly for popular 2-for-1 happy hour specials, and stay full with guests enjoying delicious, well-presented Thai Green Curry with Coconut Milk (¢4800) and delectable “Death by Chocolate” brownies with homemade ice cream (¢1800). Happy hour 6-8pm in high season, 6pm-10pm in low season. 2 for ¢2000 fresh fruit daquiris and piña coladas. Open M-Tu and Th-Su 7:30am-10pm. Cash Only.
El Loco Natural (☎2750 0263), 400m east of town toward Rocking J’s and Manzanillo. With a new, lounge-like location in a swath of trees just outside of town, El Loco Natural entices customers with delectable curries, entrancing music, and a relaxed ambience, with warm colors, Indian-style wall-hangings, mosaic floors, and multicolored mushroom-shaped paper lamps reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland. Curries ¢4000-6000. Calypso and reggae complete the relaxed atmosphere Th, Sa, and Su nights. Reservations recommended. Open daily 6-10pm, bar open until later. MC/V.
Bread and Chocolate (☎2750 0733), just before Cabinas Jacaranda coming from the main street. The most happening breakfast spot in town, Bread and Chocolate serves up hearty dishes with homemade breads, jams, sauces, whipped cream, and, of course, chocolate. Its breakfast (¢1000-2600) and sandwich (¢2000-2800) menus are served all day; try the Cinnamon Oatmeal Pancakes (¢2300), the 3 types of ultra-rich chocolate cakes (¢1200-1500), or a fresh truffle (¢500). Pastries ¢600-900. Open W-Sa 6:30am-6:30pm, Su 6:30am-2:30pm. Cash only.
EZ Times (☎2750 0663), 50m east and 50m north of ATEC. EZ Times is the local spot for live music from all over the world. Shows begin at 8 or 9pm, but guests show up earlier to the outdoor dining area, indoor bar, or open-air lounge area to enjoy tasty, unique dishes, like shrimp papaya salad with avocado (¢5500) and sandwiches on homemade focaccia with fresh fish (¢4400). The gourmet pizzas (¢2500-3500 plus ¢400-800 for toppings) are the most popular item on the menu. Open daily noon-1:30am.
Soda Isma (☎2750 0738), 1 block west of ATEC on the main road, it’s the open-air restaurant with the yellow balcony. Famous for its rondón, a dish made with fish in coconut sauce that must be ordered a day in advance (¢5000 per person). Spur-of-the-moment types feast on delicious coconut bread (¢100), tiny sandwiches (¢850), tasty gallo pinto (¢950), or casados (¢1200-3500). Open M and W-Su 7:30am-9pm.

Nightlife

Widely considered the reggae capital of Costa Rica, Puerto Viejo is pretty chilled out at night, especially in low season, with the majority of visitors and locals relaxing at open-air bars and restaurants or listening to live music at EZ Times. Those looking for a bit more dancing fun can head over to Johnny’s Place, on the water 200m north of ATEC, where tourists and locals hit up the open-air dance floor, grooving to reggae (M and F), world music (Tu), hip-hop (W), and mixed favorites (Sa). The party often spills off the dance floor onto the sand. (☎8832 0971. Mixed drinks US$5. Open daily 1pm-3:30am or later.) Restaurante Stanford’s, 200m east of ATEC on the main road, may look like a laid-back marisquería, serving up international fusion cuisine (US$5-20) by day, but at night it is transformed into the rocking Discoteca Stanford. The two-story complex has an upstairs patio area, strobe-lighted dance floor, and outdoor lounge area on the sand with music videos playing on a projector screen. The dance floor stays quiet in low season but fills up during busier times of year. (☎2750 0016. Open daily noon-midnight or later. AmEx/MC/V.)

Sights

Finca La Isla’S Botanical Garden. A 20min. walk west of town (look for the sign that says “Pan Dulce”), Finca La Isla’s Botanical Garden is an abandoned cacao plantation that has been transformed into a working tropical farm. Tours focus on education on spices (black pepper and cinnamon, among others), herbs, and medicines that are produced on the farm. Organic permaculture is stressed. Tours last 2hr. and end with juice and fruit samples. Labels help those without a guide, but the information provided in the tour, along with the complimentary samples, make a guided visit a better option. (☎2750 0046. Open M and F-Su 10am-4pm. US$5, with 2hr. guided tour US$10.)

Reserva Indígena Cocles/Kékôldi. The majority of Costa Rica’s indigenous population resides on reservations throughout this region. The most accessible is the Reserva Indígena Cocles/Kékôldi, 4km west of Puerto Viejo. Established in 1977, it is home to approximately 40 Bribrí and Cabécar families. You must have an authorized guide, available through ATEC, Puerto Viejo Tours, and Terraventuras. The ATEC guides are members of the reservation. Tours include a hike on ancient trails through old cacao plantations, secondary forests, and farms. Tours concentrate more on nature than culture to create privacy and respect between the community and tourists. At the entrance to the reservation is the Iguana Farm, a project begun by two Bribrí women to bolster the reservation’s declining iguana population. A guide is not necessary to visit the farm. (Take the bus to Bribrí and ask the driver to let you off at the “Abastecedor El Cruce,” 4km from Puerto Viejo. 5-10min., ¢335. To get back, catch one of the buses that pass the Abastecedor every hr. ATEC advises that you stop by their office first to get more up-to-date and specific directions before making the trip. 1-day trips US$45-65.)

Outdoor Activities And Guided Tours

Most surfers head straight over to La Salsa Brava (“Angry Sauce”), an extraordinary surf-hole east of the village where waves break over a coral reef. However, if you’re less experienced with a board and averse to getting drilled into coral, Beach Break is a 15min. walk east along the beach, where comparable waves break on soft sand. Playa Cocles, one of the most popular surfing spots in the Caribbean, lies 1.5km southeast of town and is immediately recognizable by the rocky, tree-covered islita that lies just 30m off shore. Its long, tall waves are most popular with the highly skilled local crowd. Playa Chiquita, 6km southeast of town, is another exciting surfing destination.

ATEC offers tours similar to those offered by Terraventuras and Puerto Viejo Tours, but it specializes in trips guided by members of local communities, especially to the indigenous reservations around Puerto Viejo (½-day US$25-45), hiking trips to Punta Uva (US$20), and leatherback turtle-watching tours in Gandoca (prices vary).
Terraventuras (☎2750 0750; www.terraventuras.com), 150m west of ATEC. Offers guided snorkeling in Parque Nacional Cahuita (US$35). Also offers a hiking tour of Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge (US$65), walking and canopy tours of the Kékôldi and Talamanca Bribrí Indian reserves (US$60), and trips to Tortuguero (US$135-190). All tours include transportation and fruit. Arranges for car rentals (US$40-70 per day, basic insurance included). Open M-Sa 8am-7pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.
Aventuras Bravas (☎2750 2000; www.costa-rica-adventure.net), in front of Stanford’s. Rents surf and boogie boards and ocean kayaks (full day US$15). John Wheatley of Aventuras offers surf lessons (US$40) proclaiming that you’ll stand up by the end of the lesson. John and his staff offer tours, including a sunset kayak tour when the waters are calm (US$25), and whitewater rafting (starting at US$65). Open daily 8am-7pm.
Puerto Viejo Tours (}/fax 2750 0440), across from the bus stop. Offers informal tours similar to Terraventuras’s. Surfing (US$45 per person), dolphin-watching trips (US$60 per person), and tropical birdwatching (US$55 per person). They can also arrange car rentals (starting at US$40 per day, basic insurance included) and trips through the forest on ATVs (call for prices). Internet access ¢1500 per hr. Open daily 8am-8pm.
Reef Runner Divers (}/fax 2750 0480 or 2879 1537), 1 block west and 2 blocks north of ATEC. The biggest scuba company around. Offers PADI certification courses (US$325) and diving excursions to the Gandoca-Manzanillo Refuge. All dives include full equipment, guide, boat, fruit, and beverages. 2hr. excursions US$70. Night dives start at US$45. 8% surcharge with credit card. Open daily 8am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Daytrip From Puerto Viejo

Punta Uva

Most visitors come on bike (30-40min., ¢1500-2500 per day from any bike shop in town), bus, or car (taxis ¢5000) from Puerto Viejo, though it is possible to walk the approx. 8km on the road or on the beach (2-3hr.). Any bus heading from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo will stop in Punta Uva; catch a bus anywhere along the road heading south out of town (7, 7:30am, noon, 4:30, 7:30pm; return 5:15, 7:15, 8:45, 10:45am, 1, 5:30pm; ¢265). Ask the bus driver to let you off in Punta Uva.

The road from Puerto Viejo down to Manzanillo is lined with beaches, resort-style lodges, and palm trees with the occasional group of howler monkeys. However, while Playa Cocles (2km from Puerto Viejo) and Playa Chiquita (5km) are surfer-filled beaches with waves usually too big for safe swimming, Punta Uva remains an idyllic retreat, with calmer light-blue waters, winding beaches, and more palm trees than people. Though primarily a swimmer and sunbather hot spot, Punta Uva is also perfect for sea-kayaking and long-board surfing, or, on lazy days, admiring the beautiful view from a hammock in the trees.

Punta Uva itself consists of a couple of bars, some upscale lodges and cabinas, and one lightly-stocked abastecedor (small grocery). There are three paths to the beach. The first, closest to Puerto Viejo, is next to Selvin’s Restaurant. The second is at the sign for Punta Uva Bar, and the final is past the Abastecedor, just in front of the Punta Uva bus stand. Though the first two paths are connected by beach, the third one is separated by the area’s namesake “Grape Point,” a natural rock tunnel in a tiny peninsula that juts into the water.

There aren’t a wide array of dining opportunities in Punta Uva, though Puerto Viejo is within easy reach. Bring as much food and water as you plan on using; the few restaurants and bars in town keep somewhat erratic hours and occasionally do not even open during scheduled hours.