The quintessential Breton city, Quimper (kam-pehr; pop. 63,000) is filled with local tradition, from its hand-painted faïence (earthenware) to its 13th-century cathedral. Ubiquitous placards (in Breton and in French) mark sights of historical interest, making a stroll along the flower-lined footbridges over the Odet River both charming and enlightening. Quimper renews its strong connection with Breton culture each year in August at the weeklong Festival de Cornouaille, when the town explodes in celebration—complete with traditional garb, concerts, and dancing in the large town square.
In the heart of the Cornouaille region, Quimper is separated from the sea by miles of rich farmland. To reach the centre-ville from the train station, turn right onto av. de la Gare, bearing left as the road forks, and continue onto bd. Dupleix. With the river on your right, follow it to pl. de la Résistance (10-15min.). The vieille ville is across the river to the right.
The tourist office has info on local chambres d’hôte. For July and August, make reservations as early as possible—especially for the Festival de Cornouaille.
The lively covered market at Les Halles, on rue St-François, has bargains on produce, seafood, meats, and cheeses; get there early, as some vendors shut down in the afternoon. (Open daily 9am-7pm.) An open-air market is also held twice a week outside Les Halles (open W and Sa 7am-9pm), while Kerfeunteun hosts an organic market. (Open F from 4pm.) There is a Monoprix across the river from the tourist office on quai du Steir (open M-Sa 9am-7pm) and a Shopi grocery downstairs at 20 rue Astor. (Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 9:30am-12:30pm.) Closer to the hostel, there’s a Proxi on quai de l’Odet. (Open M-Sa 7:30am-8pm, Su 8:30am-12:30pm; longer hours July-Aug.)
The Passeport Culturel (available at tourist office; €10) gets you into your choice of four of the following: the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Musée Départemental Breton, Faïenceries de Quimper HB-Henriot, Centre d’Art Contemporain, Musée de la Faïence, and the tourist office city tour.
Cathédrale Saint-Corentin. The twin spires of Cathédrale St-Corentin, built between the 13th and 15th centuries, rise high above the center of the old quarter. The stone figure of legendary quimperois king Gradlon the Great on horseback stands between the spires, watching over the city. The cathedral’s interior is surprisingly bright, with a beautiful pink-tile ceiling; the most curious feature, however, is the floor plan, which features a unique bend in the traditional cross-shaped footprint. (Open May-Oct. M-Sa 8:30am-noon and 1:30-6:30pm, Su 1:30-6:30pm; Nov.-Apr. M-Sa 9am-noon and 1:30-6pm, Su 1:30-6pm. Mass M-F 9am; Sa 9am and 6:30pm; Su 8:45, 9, 10am, 6:30pm. Detailed guide in English €1.50.)
Musée Départementale Breton. In the former bishop’s palace beside the cathedral, this museum offers exhibits on local history, archaeology, and ethnography. A display of traditional Breton clothing is a highlight. (1 rue du Roi Gradlon. ☎02 98 95 21 60; www.cg29.fr/culture/mdb.htm. Open June-Sept. daily 9am-6pm; Oct.-May Tu-Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm, Su 2-5pm. €4, students and ages 18-26 €2.50, under 18 free.)
Faïenceries De Quimper Hb-Henriot. This factory is the production site for Quimper’s world-renowned hand-painted earthenware. Guided half-hour tours in French and English take visitors inside the workshop to see artisans shaping and painting each piece. The adjoining boutique sells pricey but beautiful finished products. Closed due to lack of funds, the museum hopes to re-open in April 2009. (Rue Haute. ☎02 98 90 09 36; www.hb-henriot.com. Tours in French and English M-Sa 10:15am-4pm, depending on demand. Brochure available in English. Boutique open M-Sa 9:30am-7pm. €5, ages 8-14 €2.50.)
Musée Des Beaux-Arts. Across from the cathedral, this museum houses Breton-themed paintings as well as other European work. A permanent exhibit remembers quimperois poet-painter Max Jacob, a friend of Picasso and victim of the Holocaust. A temporary exhibit for 2009 will feature works by Gauguin. (40 pl. St-Corentin. ☎02 98 95 45 20; http://musee-beauxarts.quimper.fr">http://musee-beauxarts.quimper.fr">http://musee-beauxarts.quimper.fr. Open July-Aug. daily 10am-7pm; Nov.-Mar. M and W-Sa 10am-noon and 2-6pm, Su 2-6pm; Apr.-June M and W-Su 10am-noon and 2-6pm. Wheelchair-accessible. €4, students and ages 13-26 €2.50.)
Pont-Aven and Quimper are connected by Penn-ar-Bed buses (☎02 98 90 88 89; www.viaoo29.fr). Line #14A, dir.: Quimper-Quimperlé; 1½hr.; 2-9 per day; €2, under 26 €1.50.
Fed up with Impressionism, Paul Gauguin triggered a new artistic movement that emphasized pure color and simplified figures while rejecting perspective. His inspiration was Pont-Aven (pohnt-ah-vahn). Today, this small Breton town remains a vibrant artists’ colony, with galleries on nearly every street. Biscuiteries that sell the town’s famous galettes, madeleines, and palets (various types of butter cookies) are almost as prevalent. To watch the cooks at work, visit Biscuiterie de Pont-Aven, 8 rue du Général de Gaulle, where an open window is all that separates the baking studio from the shop. (☎02 98 09 14 20. Open daily July-Aug. 9am-7:30pm; Sept.-June 9:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-6:30pm.)
For a refreshing break from civilization, venture into Pont-Aven’s tranquil natural surroundings. A free map at the tourist office details a number of hikes passing by spots that inspired Gauguin and others. From the centre-ville, cross the bridge and take two quick rights to the Promenade Xavier Grall, a series of bridges bordered by greenery and gracefully drooping trees that hover over the swift Aven River. Farther upstream is the Chaos de Pont-Aven, a cluster of flat boulders around which the river swirls. A pleasant stroll amid thriving farmland and tree-lined avenues leads to the Chapelle de Trémalo. (Open daily July-Aug. 10am-6:30pm; Sept.-June 10am-5:30pm.) The 16th-century Gothic church is an isolated retreat and houses the 17th-century wood painted crucifix that inspired Gauguin’s Le Christ Jaune. After seeing the environs, view the paintings they incited at the Musée de Pont-Aven, pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville, up the street to the left when facing the tourist office. The museum showcases a collection of works by Gauguin, Sérusier, and other adherents of the Pont-Aven school as well as temporary exhibits of regional work. June through September 2009 will bring a collection of Maurice Denis’s work to the museum. A 12min. film in French, shown every 45min., is a good introduction to the artistic movements fostered in Pont-Aven. (☎02 98 06 14 43; musee.pont-aven@wanadoo.fr. Open daily July-Aug. 10am-7pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June 10am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm; Nov.-Dec. and Feb.-Mar. 10am-12:30pm and 2-6pm. July-Aug. €6, students €4, under 18 free; Sept.-June €4/2.50/free.)
There are a few cafes and restaurants around the centre-ville. There is an Ecomarché supermarket (open daily 9am-7pm) up rue Émile Bernard, where the bus from Quimper arrives. The tourist office, 5 pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville, a block from the bus stop on pl. Gauguin, offers a free handbook on local art galleries, a practical guide and walking-tour map, a guidebook on Pont-Aven art history (€0.50), and 1hr. tours of the town in French. (Easter-Sept. Tu, Th, Sa at 11am. €4.50, ages 12-25 €3.50.) The office also provides information on the Fleurs d’Ajonc Folk Festival, which takes place on the first Sunday in August. (☎02 98 06 04 70; www.pontaven.com. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 9:30am-7pm, Su 10am-1pm and 3-6:30pm; Sept.-June M-Sa 10am-12:30pm and 2-6pm, Su 10am-1pm.)
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