Where there’s water, there’s life, and Refugio Caño Negro has plenty of both. The refuge gets 3.5m of rain every year, and 85% of its land (100 sq. km) is flooded during the rainy season, from May to December. In the heart of this aquatic wonderland is the enormous Laguna Caño Negro, a 9 sq. km lake that refills every summer when the banks of the Río Frío and Río Caño Negro overflow. This labyrinth of mangroves, rivers, and harbors has been declared the fourth most important biological zone in the world, with over 315 species of birds and 160 species of mammals. The Refugio is a birdwatcher’s paradise, but all visitors will be astonished by the diversity of birds here. Reptiles like crocodiles, iguanas, turtles, and snakes abound, and rare fish swim the waters, including the prehistoric gaspar. Caño Negro is part of the protected area of the Conservación Arenal Huetar Norte, an organization that focuses on the improvement of the socioeconomic conditions of the community by creating sustainable development programs. Tourism to the area is largely dictated by the water; during the dry season, from February to April, you can explore the laguna on foot. If you choose this option, take care, as there are no official trails. When the lake is filled, there are two options for exploring. When rains are sufficient, the park can be explored by boat. Otherwise, the easiest way to explore the park is on the consistently accessible Río Frio, which is where visitors go. To find out what is available, ask at the entrance or check with tour operators. (Park open daily 8am-4pm. US$10) On the banks of the laguna, 23km southwest of Los Chiles, is the village of Caño Negro, whose access to the refuge makes it the gateway to the Refugio Caño Negro, despite its small size and remote location down a gravel road.
By car, the best route to Caño Negro from San José is to head north on the road toward Los Chiles. The entrance is 1km after the Tanques Gas Zeta (19km before Los Chiles), followed by 12km of unpaved roads (approx. 4hr. total). Despite the road conditions, buses do pass by Caño Negro between Upala and Los Chiles. Buses leave for Upala (1½hr, ¢1200) and Los Chiles (1hr., ¢950) three times per day, at 6am, 1pm, and 6pm. The best place to wait for the bus is in front of the mini-super, where you can see traffic coming in or out of town. Buses also stop in front of the hotels along the road to the town’s entrance.
The bus enters the village on the main road, making a loop around the parque central before heading back out at the northwest corner of the parque, next to the school. Just north of the school is the church and, 25m to the north, a mini-super. (☎2461 8466. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm, Su 7am-noon.) The refuge entrance is on the southeast corner of the parque. You can also enter from Albergue Caño Negro, which is on the lagoon and has boats.
The MINAE office, 200m west of the mini-super, provides tourist information. (}/fax 2471 1309. Open daily 8am-4pm.) There is no bank, and the nearest medical facility is the hospital near Los Chiles (☎2471 2000). The police station on the southeast side of the parque does not have a telephone but can be reached by radio in emergencies (☎2471 1183 or 2471 1103). The town has two public telephones, at the mini-super and in front of the police station.
It is possible to camp on the grounds of the Caño Negro MINAE office, with access to cold-water showers and bathrooms (¢1000 per person).
The park is easily reached from Caño Negro village and is best seen by boat. A 1.5km trail starts near the office and others emerge as the lake dries up.
Antonio at Cabinas Martín Pescador takes people fishing on his canopied lancha. (2hr. 1-4 people US$50, each additional person US$10.) Jesús, at Albergue Caño Negro, leads tours and fishing trips (US$15 per person per hr.). Larger tour operations run out of La Fortuna and Los Chiles . Prices do not include park entrance (US$10 per day) or fishing licenses (2 months US$30). You can pay the ranger for park entry in the kiosk at the entrance, on the southeast corner of the parque. Fishing is prohibited in April, May, and June. To get a license, pay US$30 in any Banco Nacional and pick up your package at any MINAE office, including the one 100m north and 200m west of the northwest corner of the parque in Caño Negro. You can also pay at the office. Licenses purchased within the last two months are accepted at Caño Negro. Call the Area de Conservación Huetar Norte with questions (☎2471 1309).
Bring waterproof boots—biting ants and 10 of Costa Rica’s 17 types of venomous snakes await. For more on Wilderness Safety
There are five mariposarios (butterfly farms) in Caño Negro. La Asociación de Mujeres de Caño Negro (The Women’s Association of Caño Negro; ASOMUCAN) founded the original, located 50m south and 200m west of the mini-super. They also have a Panadería /Deli Pan y Café Caño Negro , where you can get fresh bread. (☎2471 1450. Open daily 8am-5pm. Entrance ¢600. Photo rights ¢1000.)
The Río San Juan river-crossing to Nicaragua is accessible to all. Those who know the lines at Peñas Blancas may want to look into crossing here, as it is typically faster. To leave Costa Rica, you must go through the Oficina de Migración, a block west of the southwest corner of the parque. (☎2471 1233. Open daily 8am-6pm.) Walk 50m west, where the municiPalíty charges US$1/¢550 for use of the dock. (Open daily 8am-4pm.) The police will check your passport, and you can head to the docks. Boats leave daily at 12:30 and 2:30pm (one-way ¢5000). Arrive early, as departure times vary. Once in Nicaragua, you can get to other cities; the easiest way is traveling by boat, as road conditions are often poor. Boats return to Costa Rica from San Carlos at 11am and 3pm.
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