Reims (ranss; pop. 191,300) is the largest and best-known city in the Champagne region. It’s fitting that Reims, with its reputation for celebration, is where France once transformed its princes into kings. The city has hosted the coronations of 26 French monarchs, and its ornate cathedral still houses a vial of the oil used to anoint Clovis, France’s first king, in AD 486. Today, from the underground champagne caves to its lively street-side cafe terraces, the city exudes glamor and style. There are countless attractions at every turn—and plenty of bubbly to go around when the town’s amusements have run dry.
In Reims, activity centers on place Royale and place du Forum. The major thoroughfare, rue de Vesle, begins at the river, becomes rue Carnot, and runs through pl. Royale, turning into rue Cérès and later av. Jean Jaurès.
Pricier hotels cluster at the top of place Drouet d’Erlon toward bd. du Général Leclerc, while somewhat inexpensive options lie in the region above the cathedral, near the Mairie and west of place Drouet d’Erlon.
At the heart of Reims, place Drouet d’Erlon, you will also find its stomach; boulangeries and sandwich shops compete for space with cafes and classier restaurants. Slightly cheaper restaurants can be found on some of the surrounding side streets. Kebab stands line rue de Vesle, while pâtisseries line rue Gambetta. There’s a Monoprix supermarket at 21 rue Chativesle, in espace d’Erlon (open M-Sa 9am-8pm; MC/V), and a smaller Marché Plus at 131 rue de Vesle (open M-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 9am-1pm and 3-7pm; AmEx/MC/V). The main market is on place du Boulingrin, near Porte Mars. (Open Sa 6am-1pm.)
The most popular sights near the centre-ville are all within walking distance.
Cathédrale De Notre Dame. Too lazy to quarry his own stone, the bishop who commissioned this colossal Gothic creation deconstructed the protective walls surrounding the city for building materials; fearing attack, the people appealed to the king, who famously declared, “God will be the guard.” The cathedral has since witnessed the crowning of 26 French kings, beginning with Clovis in AD 498. The current church’s facade, begun in 1211, boasts 2307 statues of angels, prophets, and saints. More recently, the building witnessed the reconciliation between President de Gaulle and German Chancellor Adenauer in 1962. While WWI bombing destroyed most of the original stained glass, the newest windows include spectacular sea-blue tableaux by Marc Chagall. Low-hanging chandeliers make the enormous church seem more intimate. (☎03 26 47 55 34. Open daily 7:30am-7:30pm. The tourist office gives tours in French and offers audio tours in English and other languages. Tours €5.50, under 12 free. Audio tours €5.)
Musée De La Reddition. Germany signed its surrender to the Allies on May 7, 1945, in a schoolroom across the railroad tracks from the centre-ville —now the small but fascinating Musée de la Reddition. A short film (in English, French, or German) with actual footage of the surrender, along with several galleries of photos and timelines, introduces the preserved room plastered with maps where the American, British, French, and German heads of state sat. The Soviets were out of town, which is why another more famous (but, as the musée would say, less important) surrender was signed on Stalin’s soil several days later. Nothing here is sleek or showy, but, as a historical time capsule, the place itself is powerful. (12 rue Franklin Roosevelt, north of the train station. ☎03 26 47 84 19. Wheelchair-accessible. Open M and W-Su 10am-noon and 2-6pm, Tu 2-6pm. €3, students and under 15 free, ages 15-18 €1.50. €3 pass includes admission to 4 other museums in Reims.)
Palais Du Tau. Next to the cathedral, this former archbishop’s residence turned museum got its name from its original floor plan, which resembled a “T.” With relics from old coronation ceremonies, the palace’s exquisite collection offers an immersion into Reims’s regal history. Don’t miss the showstoppers: Charles X’s sumptuous 50 ft. robes and the creepy gargoyles rescued from crumbling portions of the old cathedral’s facade. The Salle de Tau, adorned in majestic tapestries, was where France’s newly crowned kings celebrated their ascension to the throne with lavish feasting and partying. (2 pl. du Cardinal Luçon. ☎03 26 47 81 79. Open Tu-Su May-Aug. 9:30am-6:30pm; Sept.-Apr. 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm. Call for information about guided tours. €6.50, ages 18-25 €4.50, under 18 free.)
Other Sights. Near the Taittinger caves, the Basilique Saint-Rémi rises above a lavender garden. This Romanesque church was built around the tomb of St-Rémi, the bishop who baptized Clovis, France’s first king. Almost entirely destroyed during WWI, it has since returned to its former glory. Its location near the champagne maisons makes it a convenient place to picnic in between tours. (Pl. St-Rémi. Open daily in summer 8am-9pm; in winter 8am-5pm. Son et lumière July-Sept. Sa 9:30pm.) Around the corner, the small Musée-Abbaye Saint-Rémi houses an extensive collection of religious art, military uniforms, and artifacts from the Merovingian and Carolingian eras. Look for a mournful statue of Mercury’s head, salvaged from a public edifice in AD 3. (53 rue Simon. ☎03 26 85 23 36. Open M-F 2-6:30pm, Sa-Su 2-7pm. €3; 1st Su of the month free.) Rising over pl. de la République on the other side of town, the Porte Mars is Reims’s largest Roman arch, badly damaged by WWI fighting. The ancient monument is decorated with reliefs of Romulus and Remus, who gave the city his name.
Excluding a trip to Épernay , this is the best opportunity you’ll have to swim in bubbly decadence. Four hundred kilometers of crayères (Roman chalk quarries) and 200km of more modern French-built caves shelter the bottled treasure. All the champagne caves are at least a 25min. walk from downtown. Some tours (all available in English) require reservations at least one day ahead. While Pommery and Ponsardin ostensibly require reservations, solo visitors often have little trouble joining a tour; larger groups would be wise to follow the rules. The cellars are kept at 10°C; bring a sweater.
Champagne Pommery. The most impressive tour is at Champagne Pommery. Mme. Pommery took over her husband’s business in 1858 and became one of France’s foremost vintners. Carvings by Gustave Navlet line the caves, and Pommery hosts a different contemporary art exhibit each year. The art is interspersed throughout the tour, which creates a fun, unique musée-et-maison blend . The firm also owns one of the world’s largest tonneaux (vats), carved by Émile Gallé; it was sent to the 1904 World’s Fair in St-Louis as a 75,000L gesture of goodwill. Some of the art works and the vat are on display in the lobby for those who choose not to spring for a tour. (5 pl. du Général Gouraud. ☎03 26 61 62 56; www.pommery.com. Open daily from Apr. to mid-Nov. 10am-7pm; from mid-Nov. to Mar. 10am-6pm. Last tour 1hr. before close. Tours in English, French, and German. Reservations recommended. €10-17, under 12 free; includes tour and various dégustations. AmEx/MC/V.)
Taittinger. Perfect for anyone unfamiliar with champagne production, this tour provides an informative overview with the process. On certain days, visitors may witness the dégorgement process by which sediment is removed from aged bottles. The maison’s distinctive caves snake along the underground remains of the destroyed Abbaye St-Nicaise. See the world’s largest champagne bottle and crystal champagne glass and peruse a display of Taittinger bottles designed by modern artists. (9 pl. St-Nicaise. ☎03 26 85 84 33. Open from mid-Mar. to mid-Nov. daily 9:30am-1pm and 2-5:30pm; from mid-Nov. to mid-Mar. M-F 9:30am-1pm and 2-5:30pm. Last tour 1hr. before close €10, students and ages 12-17 €8, under 12 free; includes short movie, tour, and dégustation. AmEx/MC/V.)
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin. A chic, comprehensive tour passes through the innovative Mme. Clicquot’s ornate salon before delving into cellars carved from ancient chalk mines, which contain some of her original barrels. The visit finishes with a dégustation in a stylish modern lounge. (1 pl. des Droits de l’Homme. ☎03 26 89 53 90; www.veuve-clicquot.com. Open Apr.-Oct. M-Sa 10am-6pm; Nov.-Mar. M-F 10am-6pm. 1hr. tours in English and French by reservation only; Dutch, German, Italian, and Spanish may also be available. €7.50, under 16 free; includes tour and dégustation. MC/V.)
G.H. Martel & Co. A smaller champagne maison, this company offers intimate tours and dégustations in small groups. (17 rue des Créneaux, across the street from the Basilique St-Rémi. ☎03 26 82 70 67; www.champagnemartel.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Last tour at 5:30pm. 1hr. tours in English, French, and German. Reserve ahead. €8; includes tour and 3 dégustations. MC/V.)
During the summer, Reims hosts the celebrated Flâneries Musicales d’Été, with over 80 concerts in six weeks. Esteemed classical musicians share the bill with smaller jazz groups and guitar soloists. (☎03 26 77 45 12; www.flaneriesreims.com. From late June to early Aug. Contact the tourist office for more info. Many performances free; some concerts €10-12, students and under 18 €8-10.)
At night, people fill the cafes and bars on place Drouet d’Erlon and rue de Vesle. Touristy crowds on place Drouet d’Erlon are lively and stay out late.
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