Reserva Forestal Carite Overview

Carite’s proximity to the capital makes it one of the most visited nature reserves on the island. During the summer months, hundreds of sanjuaneros trek over the hills to picnic in the cool subtropical forest or feast on the tasty lechón (roast pig) at one of Guavate’s famous lechoneras. The best examples of these roadside grills/dance halls are on Rte. 184 along Km 27-8. Inside the forest, Puerto Ricans relax at picnic tables and swimming holes at one of three recreation areas. Visitors can explore the reserve under the guidance of the knowledgeable staff at the privately run Casas de la Selva (see Accommodations and Camping, below), but it is not advisable to hike alone deep in the forest, as there are few marked trails; the DRNA has not been able to maintain established trails in the face of hurricane damage and funding shortages. From September to May, the reserve sees few visitors and makes an excellent place to camp on a trip across the island.

Transportation And Practical Information

The only way to reach Bosque Estatal Carite is by car. From San Juan or Ponce take Hwy. 52 south to Exit 32, then hop on Rte. 184 southbound. Driving along La Ruta Panorámica from the east, take Rte. 7740 to Rte. 184; from the west, take Rte. 179 to Rte. 184. Rte. 184 runs directly through the forest and contains most of the forest’s points of interest. The DRNA office is located in the northwest corner near Cayey, directly before the lechoneras. To reach the popular Charco Azul Recreation Area, follow Rte. 184 southeast to Km 16.6. La Ruta Panorámica follows Rte. 179 out of the forest toward Lago Carite, which is located near a separate section of forest southwest of the main reserve. Drivers should be aware that Puerto Rican drivers often use the whole road when taking tight mountain turns and may pose a threat to traffic in the opposite lane.

• Visitors Center: The DRNA office, Rte. 184 Km 27.5 (☎747-4545 or 747-4510), at the northwest corner of the park. Open M-F 7am-2pm.
• Hours: Charco Azul Recreation Area open daily 9am-5pm. Guavate Recreation Area open M-F 9am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 8am-5pm.
• Supplies: All visitors should bring mosquito repellent, bottled water, toilet paper, and any food they may want. There are no supplies in the park.

Accommodations And Camping

The unique lodging options in and around Bosque Estatal Carite are sharply divided between upscale lodges and camping sites.

• Las Casas de la Selva, Rte. 184 Km 15.9 (☎839-7318), 1 mi. past Charco Azul. This 1000-acre private reserve opened over 25 years ago in an effort to promote reforestation and protect the surrounding forest. Campers can set up tents either under a shelter near the lodge or in the middle of the forest among the crooning coquís. Renting a tent gets you access to the kitchen, bamboo showers, and bathroom. The newly built rustic cabin, Las Tabonucos, offers privacy, with 2 air mattresses, a hammock, and a fan. Las Casas is quieter and further from the road than nearby Charco Azul campsites, and visitors will likely get to meet volunteers working on ecological projects, or even volunteer themselves (see Constructive Conservation). Meals and guided hikes available at reasonable prices. Wi-Fi $3. Reservations required or the gate will be closed. Tent space $10; dome tent rental with thin air mattress $25. Las Tabonucos $50 per night, $80 per weekend night, $45 per night for 5 or more days. Tax included. Cash only.
• Jájome Terrace, Rte. 15 Km 18.6 (☎738-4016), where Rte. 741 and Rte. 15 meet, near the town of Jájome. Well-decorated, quiet rooms, a popular restaurant, and a remarkable view extending all the way to the Caribbean. All 10 rooms have views of the mountains, the town of Salinas, or the sea. No TVs or phones, just ample room for relaxation in the garden and wicker chairs. Breakfast included. Popular restaurant open Th 11am-6pm, F-Sa 11am-10pm, Su 11am-8pm. Downstairs double with A/C $107; upstairs quads $125. Tax included. AmEx/MC/V.
• Carite Lake Village (☎763-2950). From San Juan, follow directions to Carite, then take Rte. 184 to Rte. 179, to Rte. 742 Km 2. The huge Carite Lake Village looks a bit like a misplaced Alpine retreat, with over 50 peach-and-white steep-roofed villas surrounding Lago Carite. The undecorated, concrete 2-story villas come with bathroom, a full kitchen, a living room, and 3 upstairs bedrooms. Restaurant, swimming pool, basketball court, playground, and boat ramp round out the gated vacation community. 6 person max. Check-in 1pm. Check-out 11am. Reservations required. Villas M-Th and Su $82, F-Sa $164. Tax included. MC/V.
• Charco Azul Camping Area, Rte. 184 Km 16.6, on the east side of the road, across from the day-use picnic area. Popular with families for its accessibility and the swimming hole 10min. up an asphalt walkway. Bathrooms (bring your own toilet paper), trash cans, and fire pits. Reservations and a DRNA permit ($4) required .
• Guavate Camping Area, Rte. 184 Km 27.3, just south of the Visitors Center with parking across the road. Walk through the green wood entryway. Hillside camping area with rocky tent sites right next to a stream and the roadside; easy access to a peaceful and scenic spot. Bathrooms (bring your own toilet paper), covered picnic tables, and an outdoor shower. Reservations and a DRNA permit ($4) required .

Food

What could make sanjuaneros leave their homes at 3am to brave the strenuous drive to Puerto Rico’s central mountains? Roast pig, of course. Lechón, as it’s called, is a staple in Puerto Rico. On Rte. 184, just north of the DRNA center in the small town area known as Guavate, curious visitors can choose from a long row of lechoneras, where whole pigs roast in the windows. If it’s a holiday, expect long lines as families load up on food for the beaches and nearby water holes. Most of the open-air cafeterías open only for the weekend crowds, but local favorite Lechonera Los Piños , Rte. 184 Km 27.7, opens daily at 4am to lines of hungry customers. A full meal with lechón, rice, side, and drink goes for $7. Live music on weekends competes with the live music from every other lechonera on the block, contributing to the festive atmosphere. A pool table and bar in back provide the entertainment for smaller crowds after dark. (☎286-1917 or 489-7578. Live traditional music Sa 3pm. Live merengue Su 2pm. Open daily 4am-9pm. Bar open until 10pm. AmEx/MC/V; min. $5, $0.25 charge.)

The DRNA maintains several recreation areas throughout the park. The best are at Charco Azul, across the road from the campground, where a dozen covered picnic tables are spread throughout a large area surrounded by the river. Facilities include pit toilets, trash cans, and picnic tables, but no water. The largest picnic area, Área Recreativa Guavate, on Rte. 184 about one mile south of the Visitors Center, has countless picnic tables. Facilities include fire pits, trash cans, water, and bathrooms. Beverages of various kinds are sold at Área Recreativa Patillas, at the southern extremity of the Bosque. Local José keeps a family-friendly bar there called Vegas Place 2, across the concrete bridge and near the main waterhole. A friendly crowd of locals sips beers in manmade swimming holes in the slow-moving river next to the road. The bar does not have regular hours or a phone number, but José lives upstairs and opens up most afternoons.

Hiking

Serious hikers should head to Las Casas de la Selva , where the managers can provide information about hikes or guides for longer treks into the forest, including the rugged six-hour journey through Hero Valley. Only experienced hikers should attempt this trek, on which 60 ft. precipices lead down to a boulder-filled river. Hikes can be tailored to the visitor’s experience level.

The DRNA maintains the Vereda Charco Azul trail (8min.), a short paved path that leaves from the Charco Azul camping area across the road from the parking area and follows a creek through beautiful forest surroundings. The path ends in a little pond good for wading. In the summer, this trail can become overcrowded with families, but in the winter it offers a serene glimpse of the nature reserve. Longer trails are not well maintained by the DRNA due to continual hurricane damage and understaffing. Check with the DRNA office for current conditions.