Home of 60% of Icelanders, Reykjavík (pop. 200,000) is a modestly sized capital with an international clubbing reputation. Bold, modern architecture along with white painted concrete structures rise above the blue waters of the Faxaflói Bay. The city’s refreshingly clear air complements the clean streets and well-kept gardens. The spring rain and the endless winter night force social life indoors for much of the year, where many locals sip espresso while arguing over environmental policy in this hub of renewable energy.
Lækjartorg is Reykjavík’s main square and a navigational base. Lækjargata, a main street, leads southwest from Lækjartorg and becomes Fríkirkjuvegur when it reaches Lake Tjörnin (the Pond), the southern limit of the city center. Reykjavík’s main thoroughfare extends eastward from Lækjartorg, changing names from Austurstræti to Bankastræti and then to Laugavegur, as it is commonly known. Helpful publications, including What’s On in Reykjavík, Reykjavík City Guide, and The Reykjavík Grapevine, are available for free at tourist offices and around the city. The Grapevine, published by American expatriates, includes opinionated local news coverage and comprehensive listings of current music and arts events as well as some helpful tips for travelers.
Gistiheimili (guesthouses) offer sleeping-bag accommodations starting from 2500ISK (bed and pillow in a small room; add 300-600ISK for linens). Hotels cost at least 6500ISK. Call ahead for reservations, especially in summer.
An Icelandic meal featuring hákarl (shark meat that has been allowed to rot underground), lamb, or puffin generally costs 1500ISK or more, but worth the splurge at least once. Check out the harbor area outside downtown for some affordable seafood. To maintain a leaner budget, check out the lunch specials throughout the city (www.restaurant.is) and cook for yourself in the evenings. Pick up groceries at Bónus, Laugavegur 59. (☎562 8200. Open M-F noon-6:30pm, Sa 10am-8pm.) Other restaurants are on Austurstræti and Hverfisgata.
City Center. Reykjavík’s City Hall, on the northern shore of Lake Tjörnin, houses an impressive three-dimensional model of Iceland that vividly renders the country’s striking topography. (Open in summer M-F 8am-7pm, Sa-Su 10-6pm; winter M-F 8am-7pm, Sa-Su noon-6pm. Free.) Just beyond City Hall lies Aðalstræti, the oldest street in the city. The recently opened 871 +/- 2 Settlement Museum, 16 Aðalstræti, in the basement of Hotel Reykjavik Centrum, features the preserved foundation of a Viking longhouse, with interactive displays and artifacts. By dating surrounding volcanic deposits, archaeologists theorize that the structure was built around AD 869-873. (☎411 6370. Open daily 10am-5pm. 600ISK. AmEx/MC/V.) Nearby is the oldest house in the city, Fogetastofur, Aðalstræti 10, built in 1762, which offers exhibits, pictures, and maps describing Reykjavík’s growth since the 18th century. (Museum open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa-Su noon-5pm. Free.) The Hafnarhús (Harbor House) is the most eclectic of the three divisions of the Reykjavík Art Museum. The museum, a renovated warehouse, holds a collection of paintings by Erro, Iceland’s preeminent contemporary artist. (Tryggvagata 17, off Aðalstræti. ☎590 1200; www.artmuseum.is. Open daily high-season 10am-5pm, Th 10am-10pm; low-season 1-4pm. Free.) Follow Tryggvagata to the intersection of Lækjargata and Hverfisgata and look up on the hill to see the statue of Ingólfur Arnason, Iceland’s first settler, and revel in the view of the mountains to the north. The Culture House has a detailed exhibit on Iceland’s ancient history and mythology, including carefully preserved vellum manuscripts of Eddas and Sagas. (Hverfisgata 15. ☎545 1400. Open daily 11am-5pm. 300ISK.)
East of Lake Tjörnin, the National Gallery of Iceland presents contemporary Icelandic art. The toys and cushions on the bottom floor aren’t an installment piece; they’re for restless children. (Fríkirkjuvegur 7. ☎515 9600. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. Free.) Continue eastward to the Hallgrímskirkja landmark church on Skólavörðustígur, designed by Guðjón Samúelsson to look like it formed from a volcanic eruption. The church will be under construction until September 2009, but you can still go up to the tower for an unparalleled view of the city. (☎510 1000; www.hallgrimskirkja.is. Open daily 9am-5pm; occasionally closes later in summer. Organ concerts Th at noon, in summer also Sa at noon. Elevator to the top 400ISK.) Across from the church, the Einar Jónsson Museum on Njarðargata exhibits 300 of the sculptor’s imposing, allegorical works inspired by Iceland’s Christian and pagan heritage. Don’t miss the free sculpture garden in the back. (☎551 3797; www.skulptur.is. Open from June to mid-Sept. Tu-Su 2-5pm; mid-Sept.-May Sa-Su 2-5pm. 400ISK. Free with ISIC.)
Laugardalur. Sights cluster around Laugardalur, a large park east of the city center. The white dome of the Ásmundarsafn (Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum), on Sigtún, houses works spanning Sveinsson’s career in a building the artist lived in and designed. The sculpture garden around the museum features larger works, some of which are interactive pieces ideal for climbing or relaxing on. (Take bus #14 to the Laugardalslaug thermal pools, turn left and walk down Reykjavegur to Sigtún. ☎553 2155. Open daily May-Sept. 10am-4pm; Oct.-Apr. 1-4pm. Free.) Walking out of the museum, continue straight down Sigtún until it becomes Engjavegur and proceed to the Reykjavík Botanic Garden, one of the few forested areas in Iceland. (Skúlatún 2. ☎553 8870. Garden open 24hr. Greenhouse and pavilion open daily Apr.-Sept. 10am-10pm; Oct.-Mar. 10am-5pm. Free.) Just outside the garden, opposite the pavilion and greenhouse, a free outdoor exhibit outlines the history of the Washing Springs, Reykjavík’s geothermal square, where the women of the city once came to do their cooking and their laundry. The Laugardalur region has a variety of sports facilities, but be sure to visit the city’s largest thermal swimming pool, Laugardalslaug (see Thermal Pools, below).
Other Sights. The Saga Museum rivals Madame Tussauds with its depiction of Icelandic history using life-size wax models. One figure shows a woman exposing her breast, which supposedly caused the Norwegian army to retreat during a bygone battle. Let’s Go does not recommend flashing. (Bus #18 south to Perlan. ☎511 1517; www.sagamuseum.is. Open Mar.-Oct. 10am-6pm; Nov.-Feb. noon-5pm. 1000ISK, students 800ISK.) The renovated National Museum has a more comprehensive overview of Iceland’s past with audio/visuals and interactive exhibits that let you try on Icelandic garb. (Suðurgata 41. Bus #14, 1, 3, or 6 from Hlemmur station. ☎530 2200; www.natmus.is/english. Open May-Sept. 15 daily 10am-5pm; Sept 16-Apr. Tu-Su 11am-5pm. 600ISK, students 300ISK. W free. Free guided tours summer daily 11am, winter Sa 2pm. MC/V.) From the National Museum, take bus #12 or 19 from Hlemmur to Árbæjarsafn, an open-air museum that chronicles the lives of past generations of Icelanders. Check for the website for summer weekend special events, like folk dances and Viking games. (Kistuhylur 4. ☎411 6300; www.reykjavikmuseum.is. Open June-Aug. daily 10am-5pm. 600ISK, F Free. Low-season tours M, W, F 1pm-2pm; call ahead.)
Reykjavík’s thermal pools are all equipped with a hot pot (naturally occurring hot tub) and steam room or sauna, although each pool maintains a distinct character. Those searching for the cheapest option should seek out the city beach and its free hot pot at Nauthólsvik. Unless otherwise specified, all pools listed below charge 360ISK admission, with 10 visits for 2500ISK.
Reykjavík has a range of hikes for different experience levels. Take precaution when scaling heights—conditions on hilltops can be very different compared with weather at sea level and can change quickly. For a casual stroll, take bus #18 to the Perlan stop by the Saga Museum to reach trails on the forested hill around Perlan, one of which features a working model of the Strokkur Geyser (see Gullfoss and Geysir). At the southwest corner of the park is Nauthólsvík beach (see Thermal Pools, above) and a scenic trail around the airport that leads back to the city. If you get tired, catch bus #12 on Skeljanes back to the center. Pick up maps at the tourist office. If basking in the midnight sun on a black lava beach is what you’ve always dreamed of, visit the Grótta bird reserve on the western tip of the peninsula. Take bus #11 out to Hofgarður and walk 15min. along the sea on Byggarðstangi. Although the Grótta itself is closed during nesting season (May-June), the bird-filled sky is still an amazing sight. Check out the lighthouse at the edge of the peninsula: high tides make it a temporary island. South of the city lies the Heiðmörk Reserve, a large park with picnic spots and beginner to intermediate hiking trails. Take bus #1 or 2 from Hlemmur to Hamraborg and transfer to bus #28. Ask the driver to let you off at Lake Elliðavatn; from there, walk 3-4km south to the reserve.
Secluded and slow-paced
Despite being unnervingly quiet on weeknights, Reykjavík asserts its status as a wild party town each weekend. The city’s thriving independent music scene centers at 12 Tónar, Skólavörðustígur 12, a truly unique record store. After taking in the concerts, Icelanders hit the bars and clubs until the wee hours. Most bars do not have cover charges, but bouncers tend to regulate who enters, especially after 2am. Clubs have steep drink prices, so many locals drink at home or head to the vínbuð (government liquor store) before going out. Don’t bother showing up before 12:30am and plan to be out until 4 or 5am. Boisterous crowds tend to bar-hop around Austurstræti, Tryggvagata, and Laugavegur. The establishments listed below are 20+, unless otherwise noted.
Iceland’s main attractions are its natural wonders. Iceland Excursions runs the popular “Golden Circle Classic” tour, which stops at Hveragerði, Kerið, Skálholt, Geysir, Gullfoss, and Þingvellir National Park. (☎540 1313; www.grayline.is. 9-10hr., 8773ISK.) Arctic Adventures is one company offering a variety of adventure tours, with the Golden Circle Rafting trip (13990ISK) a perennial favorite. (Laugavegur 11 in the Cintamani store. ☎562 7000; www.adventures.is. MC/V.) Also worth a look is a diving or snorkeling tour (see www.dive.is) as Iceland offers some of the best diving sights in the world. Highlanders offers exciting but pricey off-road tours in jeeps that can traverse rivers, crags, and glaciers. (☎588-9588; www.hl.is. From 13,900ISK.)
Gullfoss And Geysir. The glacial river Hvita plunges down 32m to create Gullfoss (Golden Falls). A dirt path passes along the falls, where many get soaked in the mist. The adjacent hill houses a small cafeteria and gift shop, and affords a stunning view of the surrounding mountains, plains, and cliffs. On the horizon you can see the tip of Longjökull, a glacier the size of Hong Kong. The Geysir (namesake of the word “geyser”) area, 10km down the road, is a teeming bed of hot springs in a barren landscape. The Strokkur Geyser (the Churn) erupts around every 4min., spewing sulfurous water up to 35m. Exercise caution around the thermal pools—more than one tourist has fallen into the nearby Blesi pool and been badly scalded. The small, but excellent museum at the visitors center offers a multimedia show on the science behind these natural phenomena. The top portion of the museum is dedicated to Aðalbjörg Egilsdottur, who donated her collection of early 19th-century household Icelandic artifacts. (Open daily 10am-5pm. BSÍ runs a round-trip bus to Gulfoss and Geysir with Iceland Excursions, departing from the BSÍ Terminal in Reykjavík June-Aug. daily 8:30am; 6hr., round-trip 5200ISK. Museum 800ISK, students 650ISK. )
Þingvellir National Park. The European and North American tectonic plates meet at Þingvellir National Park, a place of both geologic and cultural significance for Iceland. The Öxará River, slicing through lava fields and jagged fissures, leads to the Drekkingarhylur (Drowning Pool), where adulterous women were once drowned, and on to Lake Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest lake. This lake has exceptionally clear water, making for one of the best diving and snorkeling sites in the world. (For diving opportunities check out www.dive.is or call ☎663 2858.) Not far from the Drekkingarhylur lies the site of the Alþingi (ancient parliament), where for almost nine centuries, starting in AD 930, Icelanders gathered annually in the shadow of the Lögberg (Law Rock) to discuss matters of law, economics, and justice. Maps are available at the Þingvellir Visitors Center. (Info center ☎482 2660. Open June-Aug. daily 8:30am-8pm; May and Sept. daily 9am-5pm. BSÍ does not run buses to Þingvellir; the site can be reached only by taking a tour bus or driving. Check out Iceland on Your Own and Reykjavik Excursions opportunities.)
Blue Lagoon. The southwest corner of the Reykjanes Peninsula, only 15 minutes from Keflavík airport, harbors an oasis in the middle of a lava field: a vast pool of geothermally heated water. The lagoon has become a tourist magnet, but it’s worth braving the crowds. The cloudy blue waters, rich in silica and other minerals, are famous for their healing powers. Bathers who have their fill of wading through the 36-39˚C (97-102˚F) waters can indulge in a steam bath, a silica facial, or an in-water massage (3600ISK for 10 min.). Stand under the waterfall for a free, all-natural shoulder massage. (Open daily from mid-May to Aug. 8am-10pm; from Sept. to mid-May 9am-9pm. Towel rental 350ISK. Bathing suit rental 400ISK. Admission and locker 2300ISK. AmEx/MC/V.) Try taking the bus to the Blue Lagoon on your way to or from Keflavík. Airport buses leave at 8:30am or 11am, spend a few hours at the lagoon and then take you back to the airport for the same 4400ISK fee. (Buses run from BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík. 1hr., 6 per day 8:30am-6pm; round-trip 4400 ISK with Blue Lagoon admission. ☎420 8809; www.bluelagoon.com.)
Nesjavelliri. This power plant provides Reykjavík with half of its hot water and electricity by capturing geothermal heat that escapes from the intersection of the North American and European tectonic plates. Pipes run 26km from Nesjavelliri to the capital city on rollers to avoid destruction by one of Iceland’s frequent earthquakes. The geothermal energy hub is also fueled by three nearby volcanic systems. Free tours of the facilities are available and provide a detailed look at Iceland’s latest strides in renewable energy. (Accessible only by car or tour bus; see Iceland Excursions. ☎480 2408. Open June-Aug. M-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 1pm-6pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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