Rijeka Overview

Life moves at a fast pace in the bustling port city of Rijeka (pop. 144,000), a major transportation center that also serves as a base for island-hopping in the Kvarner Gulf. Though less idyllic than neighboring Opatija, Rijeka’s dynamism and historical attractions make it a worthwhile stop.

Tranportation And Practical Information. The bus station, Trg Žabica 1, is located on the waterfront at the end of Krešimirova. (☎051 302 010. Open daily 5:30am-9:30pm.) Buses run to: Dubrovnik (12hr., 4 per day, 427kn); Krk Town (1½hr., 10-16 per day, 54kn); Pula (2.5hr, every hr., 91kn); Split (8hr., 12 per day, 236kn); Zagreb (2½hr., every hr., 140kn). To get to Korzo from the bus station, walk away from the water and turn right on Trpimirova. Cross the street to Jadranski trg and continue straight onto Korzo. The tourist information center (TIC), Korzo 33, has maps of Rijeka’s main sights. (☎051 335 882; www.tz-rijeka.hr. Open mid-June to mid-Sept. M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su and holidays 8am-2pm; mid-Sept. to mid-June M-Sa 8am-8pm.) Rijeka’s tourist board turns Korzo, the city’s main street, into a Wi-Fi hotspot in the summer.

Orientation And Sights. Daily life in Rijeka centers around Korzo, a wide pedestrian avenue with an abundance of stores and outdoor cafes. A stroll along Korzo takes you past the yellow City Tower (Gradski toranj), which served as the main gate to the city when it was a Roman settlement. Behind the City Tower and through Trg Ivana Koblera is the Roman Gate (Stara vrata), the oldest monument in Rijeka; through the arch are excavations with ancient Roman artifacts. Built in the 13th-century, the iconic   Trsat fortress stands on a hill high above the city and offers unparalleled views of the city center and harbor. To reach Trsat, visitors can follow the footsteps of centuries of pilgrims by climbing the 16th-century Petar Kružić 538-step stairway, beginning at Titov trg on Križanićeva or hop on bus #1 or 1a.

Accommodations And Food. Inexpensive accommodations in the city center are scarce, and no agencies officially book private rooms. Youth Hostel Rijeka , Šetalište XIII divizije 23, in a renovated villa overlooking the sea, has immaculate rooms and a friendly, helpful staff. From the bus station, walk to the waterfront and take the #2 bus toward Pećine Plumbum; the hostel is across the street from the fifth stop. (☎051 406 420; www.hfhs.hr. Breakfast included. Internet 5kn per 15min. Reception 24hr. Dorms €15.50; singles €28.40; doubles €18.90. HI non-members 10kn extra per night.) Those willing to pay a little extra opt for Hotel Continental , a beautiful building along the river, a 2min. walk from the city center. The simply furnished rooms rest inside the grand exterior. (☎051 372 008; www.jadran-hoteli.hr. Breakfast included. Singles 397kn; doubles 469kn.)

A modern take on the traditional Croatian konoba (in coastal towns, a small inn or cellar), Konoba Nebuloza , Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića 1, in the Hotel Continental. (☎051 372 154; www.cont.hr. Pastries and cakes 8-13kn. Open daily 7am-10pm.)

Entertainment And Nightlife. Opened in 1885, the Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc, Uljarska 1, hosts performances during Rijeka’s Summer Nights Festival, June and July. (☎051 355 900; www.hnk-zajc.hr.) A popular daytime café-bar El Rio, Jadranski trg 4c, comes to life when a young and hard-partying crowd flocks here for karaoke and dancing at night; DJs spin on the weekends. (☎051 214 428. Open M-W 7am-1am, Th-Sa 7am-5am, Su 9am-1am.) On the waterfront, catch up with Rijeka’s most beautiful trendsetters under mood lighting in the Zen-inspired Opium Buddha Bar, Riva 12a. (☎051 336 397. Open M-W 7am-3am, Th-Su 7am-5am).