This charming city sits smack-dab in the middle of Thailand’s agricultural heartland. Built around a peaceful lake and park, Roi Et is watched over by the tranquil gaze of the world’s tallest blessing Buddha. This enormous figure is aptly situated in a city meaning “101,” which was likely created in remembrance of Roi Et’s former prosperity. Intense flooding has since destroyed much of the city and only one gate remains from the glory days. Today, Roi Et is still a beautiful and charming city, well off the beaten path, that produces some of the best jasmine rice in the world. Beyond rice, the city is a great place to taste sup nau mai (bamboo shoot curry), browse mudmee (tie-dyed silks) and khaens (Isaan panpipes), and visit impressive wats.
Roi Et is centered around the Beung Phlan Chai Lake. Sunthornthep Road encircles the lake, before joining Suriyadet Bamrung Road in the east. Most stores and hotels are east of the lake, on Peonjit Road. Rattakitkhlaikhla Road, to the south, and Haisok Road, to the north, bisect the city. The bus station is located on the western end of the main east-west artery, Jangsanit Road, which becomes Thewapiban Road in the east. The hospital, tourist center, and other government buildings are centered around a traffic circle where Rattakitkhlaikhla and Rachakrandamnean Road intersect, south of the lake.
Roi Et has, at best, a paltry selection of budget accommodations. Rooms are commonly shared with mosquitoes and the occasional cockroach. They’re manageable for a couple of nights, but a few extra baht can be well spent on a hotel upgrade.
The best Isaan food is at roadside stalls throughout the city, or at the clean and friendly night market , one of the largest in Isaan. This market sets up off Peonjit Rd., between Sukkasem and Suriyat Rd. The day market is at the intersection of Haisok and Phadung Phanit Rd., north of the lake. Watch for the stir-fry man who cooks up spicy veggie and meat stir-fry with flames shooting up meters into the air. There’s also an early morning fresh market in the same building as the night market, with fruit, veggies, fish, and meat. (Open daily 6-9am.)
Roi Et is centered around Beung Phlan Chai Lake and its well-maintained park,whose pathways and footbridges dot the lake. It is the perfect setting for an afternoon stroll. Stop to feed the fish at the water’s edge (5฿), or rent a paddleboat (30min., 30฿). The park can be accessed from one of its footbridges. A small aquarium is located on the southwest shores of the lake. Cool off in the aquarium’s air-conditioning and stoll through its walk-through tunnel displaying Thailand’s northeastern aquatic life. (☎043 511 286. Aquarium open W-Su 8:30am-4:30pm. Park open daily 4am-9pm. Free.)
Wat Burapha, off Phadung Phanit Rd., is in the northeast corner of town. From Peonjit Rd., turn right onto Phadung Phanit, and it’s 500m to the left—keep looking up, you can’t miss it. The largest structure at this wat isn’t a pagoda, it’s the world’s tallest Buddha, in a blessing posture, towering over the city at 67.8m. Known locally as Luang Pho Yai, the Buddha was constructed from 1973-1979 giving it little historical significance. Nonetheless, it is a spectacle to behold. Climb the set of stairs running up behind the Buddha to get a nice view of Roi Et. (Open 9am-5pm daily.)
In contrast, the 200-year-old monastic hall at Wat Klang Ming Muang, on Phadung Phanit Rd., dates back to the late Ayutthaya period, when it was used as a site to pledge official allegiance to the King. The wat houses mural paintings, and has a climbable three-story bell tower. (From the lake, take a left onto Phadung Phanit Rd.; the wat is on the left. Open 8am-4pm.)
Roi Et’s limited night scene is concentrated along Ratchapalayuk Rd. The helpfully named “We are..Pub”, 410 M 14 Ratapalayuk Rd., directly opposite Petcharat Garden Hotel, gets the beats going at 10pm each night. (☎081 779 1919. Singha 75฿. Live music starts at 10:30pm. Open 9pm-2am.)
Phra Maha Chai Mongkol Chedi. Phra Maha Chai Mongkol Chedi (“the great, victorious, and auspicious pagoda”) lives up to its name. It’s on 101 rai of land and is 101m in width, length, and height. You can walk along the wall that encloses a 7000 sq. m forest. The temple is located 80km away from Roi Et. (From Roi Et bus station, catch a mini-bus to Nong Phok (every 20min. 5am-2pm, 40฿). From there, catch a 30฿ songthaew that going to Phra Maha Chai Mongkol)
Wat Pha Noan Sawan. Located along the road to Yasothan, Wat Pha Noan Sawan, a melange of Hindu and Buddhist culture. Two giant tortoises and two towering pagodas resembling pinecones are at this temple’s entrance, which is shaped like the mouth of Hanuman (from the Ramayana ). As a result, this wat looks like a cross between a sacred space and an amusement park. Yasothon-bound buses will drop you off 4km from the wat (15฿). Farther away from Roi Et, on Yasothon Rd., is Beung Khla, a lovely reservoir is frequented by locals. Food stalls serve a range of Thai meals. (Buses heading in the direction of Yasothon can drop you off at the resevoir (15min., 11 per day 8am-2:30pm, 10฿). Alternatively, charter a tuk-tuk to take you there, wait, and bring you back, for 180-200฿.)
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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