Rovaniemi Overview

Just south of the Arctic Circle, Rovaniemi (pop. 60,000) is the capital of Finnish Lapland and a gateway to the northern wilderness. In October 1944, architect Alvar Aalto orchestrated a construction scheme to rebuild the settlement in the shape of a reindeer’s head. You can discern a head with antlers in a modern map of Rovaniemi with east facing up.

Transportation And Practical Information.  Trains run to Helsinki (9-13hr., 5 per day, from €75) via Oulu (2.5hr., from €24.50) and Kuopio (7hr., 3 per day, about €60). Buses go to northern Finland and to Nordkapp, NOR (11hr., 3 per day, €119.4). The tourist office, Maakuntakatu 31 in Lordis Square, books Lapland wilderness safaris. (☎016 346 270; www.rovaniemi.fi. Internet and Wi-Fi. Open June-Aug. M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm; Sept.-May M-F 9am-6pm; in Dec. also Sa-Su 10am-2pm. Safaris €22-122. AmEx/MC/V.) The library, Jorma Eton tie 6, an Aalto design, has free Internet. Open in summer M-Th 11am-7pm, F 11am-5pm, Sa 11am-3pm; in winter M-Th 11am-8pm, F 11am-5pm, Sa 11am-4pm.) Postal Code: 96200.

Accommodations And Food.  Hostel Rudolf (HI) , Koskikatu 41-43, has well-furnished, recently renovated rooms with TV and bath. (☎016 321 321; www.rudolf.fi. Reception 24hr. at the Clarion Hotel Santa Claus, Korkalonkatu 29. Breakfast €8 at hotel. Apr. to mid-Nov. dorms €30; singles €41. Double €52. €2.50 HI discount. AmEx/MC/V.) Koskikatu is lined with cafes, bars, and a K supermarket. (Open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa 8am-6pm. MC/V.) Finnish “monster band” Lordi runs Lordi’s Rocktaurant , Koskikatu 25, good for salads, burgers, pizzas. (☎016 050 433 9811; www.rocktaurant.com. Open M-Tu 11am-6pm, W-Th 11am-9pm, F 11-10pm, Sa noon-10pm, Su noon-6pm. Open later in winter. MC/V.) A cheaper option is Pizzeria Trocadero , Koskikatu 3. Pizza €6-8 with salad bar. (☎016 344 120. Open M-Th 12-10pm, F 12-10pm, Sa-Su 12-10pm.)

Sights And Entertainment. The T Arktikum, housed in a glass corridor at Pohjoisranta 4, has a cache of info on the Arctic and the history of Lapland’s people and landscapes. (☎016 322 3260; www.arktikum.fi. Open daily from mid-June to mid-Aug. 9am-7pm; from mid-Aug. to mid-June daily 10am-6pm. €12, students €8. AmEx/MC/V.) If you’ve always wanted to visit Santa Claus at his supposed home in Finland, head to Santa Claus Village, 8km north of Rovaniemi. Here, the enterprising   Father Christmas holds daily office hours while his band of elves runs an empire of gift shops. Send letters from Santa around the holidays for €6. After asking Santa why he lives in a gift shop, cross the white Arctic Circle line, which runs through the center of the village. (Take bus #8 (30min.; €3.40, round-trip €6.20) from the train station or the city center to Arctic Circle. ☎016 356 2096; www.santaclausvillage.info. Open daily May-Aug. 9am-6pm; Sept.-Nov. and Jan.-Apr. 10am-5pm; Dec. 9am-7pm.) For those more into swim than snow, take a dip in the Vesihiisi swimming hall, Nuortenkatu 11. (☎016 3222 592. www.rovaniemi.fi/uimahalli. Swim times M-F 6:30-8am, 2-8pm. Sa-Su 11am-5pm. €5.50, students €3.40. Morning swim €3.70/2.50.) Doris Nightclub, Koskikatu 4, is one of the clubs affiliated with the Sokos hotel. (☎020 1234 695. W-Th beer €1, F-Sa €3. Band nights €8-15. Open 10pm-4am W-Sa. Cover W-Th €3, F-Sa €5. 18+. AmEx/MC/V.)