Sémur-En-Auxois Overview

The towers that protect the vieille ville and the seventh-century château of Sémur-en-Auxois (say-moor-ohn-ohk-swah; pop. 5000) have long defined its identity; the name of this 2000-year-old town stems from its Roman title, Sene Muros, meaning “old walls.” Overlooking a bend in the Armençon River, the provincial town offers stunning views of the walls and quirky specialty shops, but little else. Thanks to its rooted local community, Sémur-en-Auxois feels thoroughly unspoiled—despite its status as a tourist town.

Buses: Rue de la Liberté. TRANSCO (☎03 80 42 11 00) runs Rapides de Côte d’Or (☎03 80 78 93 33) buses to Avallon (40min.; M-Sa 8:25am, 1:44, 7:50pm, Su 12:46, 7:59pm; €7.20) and Dijon (1hr.; M-Sa 7:10am, 1, 6pm, Su 6pm; €11). Schedules at the tourist office.
Taxis: ☎03 80 96 60 18 or 06 07 91 24 93.
Bike Rental: RDX, 3 rue Carnot (☎03 80 97 10 26). €8 per ½-day, €13 per day. Open Tu-Sa June-Aug. 9am-noon and 2-7pm; Sept.-May 9:30am-noon and 2-6:30pm. MC/V.

Practical Information

Tourist Office: Pl. Gaveau (☎03 80 97 05 96; www.ville-semur-en-auxois.fr), where rue de la Liberté meets the gates of the vieille ville. Has free maps with walking tours, a list of hotels, and an SNCF info and reservation office. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 9:30am-1pm and 1:45-7pm, Su 10am-12:30pm and 3-6pm; Sept.-June Tu-Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm. SNCF info office open Tu-F 9am-noon and 2-6pm, Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm.
Tours: Tourist office schedules walking tours of the city, offers free brochures with self-guided itineraries, and runs a 45min. petit train in the summer. July-Aug. Tu-Su; call tourist office for times. €4.30, ages 4-12 €2.70.
Laundromat: At the Centre Commercial Champion. Open daily 8am-8pm.
Police: Rue de la Fontaignotte (☎03 80 97 01 11).
Hospital: Av. Pasteur (☎03 80 89 64 64), east of the Centre Commercial.
Internet Access: Cyber KFE, 19 rue de la Liberté (☎03 80 96 64 40), inside the Hôtel du Commerce. €2 per 30min. Open M-F 7:30am-8pm, Sa 8am-8pm. Carpe Diem (see Food, below). Free with purchase.
Post Office: Pl. de l’Ancienne Comédie (☎03 80 89 93 06). ATM and currency exchange available. Open M-F 8:30am-noon and 1:30-5:30pm, Sa 8:30am-noon. Postal Code: 21140.

Accommodations And Camping

Hôtel du Commerce, 19 rue de la Liberté (☎03 80 96 64 40), near the vieille ville. Spacious rooms with bath, TVs, and access to terrace bar make up for peeling paint. Breakfast €6-10. Reception M-Sa 7am-8pm, Su by reservation. Reservations recommended in summer. Singles and doubles €40-55; quads €60. Extra bed €8. AmEx/MC/V.
Camping Municipal du Lac de Pont (☎03 80 97 01 26), 3km south of Sémur. From pl. de l’Ancienne Comédie, follow signs to Hôtel du Lac de Pont; the campground is next to the hotel. Note that the signs are narrow and sometimes hard to find. 3-star spot in the sun next to a scenic lake with tennis courts, a beach, bike rental, laundry, and a mini-mart. Reception 8am-noon and 4-7pm. Open from May to mid-Sept. €3.70 per person, children €1.90; €1.60 per car; sites €1.80. Electricity €2.50. MC/V.

Food

For groceries, stop at the Petit Casino supermarket, across from the church on rue Notre Dame. (☎03 80 96 61 21. Open Tu-Sa 8am-1pm and 3-8pm, Su 8am-1pm. MC/V.) A weekly market opens along rue Buffon (open Su morning).

La Goulue, 15 rue Buffon (☎03 80 97 28 97; www.chezlagoulue.com). Colorful decor. Enormous portions. Tasty escargot -topped crêpe bourguignonne €15. Crêpes from €10. Desserts from €4. 3-course lunch menu du marché €12. Open May-Aug. daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 7-10pm; Sept.-Apr. M-Tu and Th noon-2pm, F-Sa noon-2pm and 7-10pm, Su noon-2pm. MC/V.
Entr’act, rue du Vieux Marché (☎03 80 96 60 10). Extra cheesy pizzas and pastas in a homey dining room. Locals enjoy meals on the outdoor terrace. Pizzas €7-10. Plat du jour €8.50. Open daily noon-2pm and 7:30-10:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Carpe Diem, 4 rue du Vieux Marché (☎03 80 97 00 35). Nautical-themed restaurant and bar. Variety of crêpes (€2-3) and well-stocked bar (drinks from €4). Internet free with purchase. Plat du jour €7.50. Open Tu-Sa 11am-1:45am, Su 11am-5pm.

Sights And Festivals

Each year on weekends in late May and early June, Sémur hosts the Fêtes de la Bague, which includes a medieval festival with artisan products, music, theater, fireworks, and even horse races through the town. On Thursdays from July to September, Jeudis de l’Été hits town, ushering in a series of free concerts and spectacles, such as circus performers. Call the tourist office for details.

Collégiale Notre Dame. In the medieval town, down rue Buffon, mossy gargoyles menace the central place from the 15th-century Gothic facade of this church. The interior lacks the polish of other Burgundy cathedrals, but its stained-glass memorial to fallen WWI soldiers makes a peek inside worthwhile. The unusual windows show two soldiers kneeling before Joan of Arc as buildings behind them burn down in vibrant flames. Outside, a 13th-century tympanum on the Porte des Bleds faces rue Notre Dame. Behind the church lies a quiet park perfect for a picnic. (☎03 80 97 05 96. Open daily 9am-noon and 2-6pm.)

Museé Municipal De Sémur-En-Auxois. Filled with sculptures, archaeological relics and oil paintings—not to mention a statue of France’s greatest hero, T Vercingetorix —this small museum has it all. The collection of enormous snail shells will put the escargots on your plate to shame. (Rue Jean-Jacques Collenot. ☎03 80 97 24 25. Open Apr.-Sept. M and W-Su 2-6pm; Oct.-Mar. M and W-F 2-5pm. Free.)

Other Sights. Stroll around the ramparts and the Armençon River, a 10min. walk from the centre-ville. Romantics can take a walk down to the seldom-touristed Pont Pinard for a breathtaking view of the illuminated vieille ville. (From rue du Rempart, walk away from Notre Dame and make a left onto rue du Fourneau, then follow the signs (10min.). Vieille ville illuminated from mid-June to Sept. nightly 10pm-midnight.)

Entertainment And Nightlife

With only about 300 seats, the Théâtre Municipale, 11 rue du Rempart, is France’s smallest opera house. Visitors will enjoy the impressive acoustics and architecture à l’italienne. (Open only for performances. Check the tourist office for the season’s schedule and ticket prices.) To find the most popular bars and brasseries, take a walk down rue Buffon or rue de la Liberté .

Le Domysyl, 13 rue Buffon (☎03 80 96 69 05). Playing an eclectic set of tunes ranging from hip hop to bebop, this brasserie draws a youthful crowd in an otherwise sleepy town. Food service, mostly consisting of cheese-centric appetizers, available until close. Beer from €2. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-1:30am. MC/V.