Berlin Mitte
Like any KFC, Mitte contains 95% good stuff and 5% crap. Stick with the recommendations, and you'll be fine. You're on your own with KFC.
- Pergamon museum, Am Kupfergraben 5 (www.smb.museum), If it kept its two main exhibits, the Pergamon temple and the Ishtar Gate, the rest of this museum could show off cotton balls and it'd still be worth it. The museum reconstructs the Pergamon temple nearly to its full size, and the battle mural on the wall displays jagged toothed snakes ripping off heroes' arms while titans rip lions' mouths apart. The Mesopotamian Ishtar Gate, reconstructed tile-by-original-tile, rises 30m into the air, then stretches 100m down a hallway. You'll hardly believe it. U2, U5, U8: Alexanderpl. €10, students €5. Free Th after 6pm. Open M-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-10pm, F-Su 10am-6pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Topography of Terror, Niederkirchner Str. 8 (www.topographie.de), This exhibit opened May 2010 and looks at the origins, development, and deployment of Nazi terror from 1930 to 1946. This detailed, personalized, fair, and informative exhibition provides one of the best insights into Nazi strategies and the extent of the horror. No detail (or image) is deemed off-limits, and travelers with weak stomachs are warned. That said, the conclusions of this exhibit are so incredibly important and so poorly understood that a trip here should really be considered a must. A bookshop, cafe, and library take up the bottom floor, while a segment of the Berlin Wall and the excavated foundations of Hitler's old terror headquarters fill out an enormous, otherwise empty, courtyard. U2: Potsdamer Pl. From the Metro, head east on Leipziegerstr. and take a right on WilhelmLeipziegerstr. The exhibit is directly across from the Hi-Flyer. Free. Open daily 10am-8pm. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Cora-Berliner-Str. 1 (www.stiftung-denkmal.de), Imposing concrete blocks equidistant from each other commemorate the Jews who were killed by the National Socialists. If you're looking for reflection or somberness, you won't find it aboveground, where kids play hide and seek, tourists nap on blocks, and policemen from the nearby American embassy work in a paranoid frenzy to keep cars from stopping. See the memorial quickly, then head below ground for a moving, informative exhibit on the Jewish history of WWII. Especially devastating is the “family” room, which presents pre-war Jewish family portraits and then investigates the individual fates of the family members. The last room continuously plays one of thousands of compiled mini-biographies of individuals killed in the Holocaust. To read the bios of every murdered Jew would take over six years. U2: Potsdamer Pl. From the Metro, walk north on Ebertstr. Free. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-8pm; Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Homosexual Memorial, On Ebertstr. (www.stiftung-denkmal.de/en/homosexualmemorial), While Berlin now accepts homosexuality like few places do in the world, it wasn't so until 1969, before which homosexuality was illegal under a law passed by the Nazis. As a result, homosexuals were not included in many memorials against Nazi violence. This memorial, which opened in 2008, consists of a giant block with a screen that plays a video of two men kissing on loop—though part of the memorial, this video is set to change every two years. U2: Potsdamer Pl. From the Metro, walk north on Ebertstr. The memorial will be on your left, in the garden. Open 24hr. Wheelchair access.
- House of World Cultures, John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10 (www.hkw.de), Originally built by the Americans to show off to the nearby East Berliners, the House of World Cultures now hosts festivals, movie screenings, lectures, and an incredible anarchist bookstore in a bizarre structure that's been affectionately called “The Pregnant Clam.” The formless statue in the pool out front becomes a butterfly when you view its reflection. U55: Bundestag. From the Metro, head southwest down Paul Löbe Allee. Free. Event prices vary. Open daily 10am-7pm. Exhibitions open M 11am-7pm, W-Su 11am-7pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Neues Museum, Bodestr. 1 (www.neues-museum.de), One of the top museums in the city, this collection of Egyptian and Greek antiquities goes beyond what you'd expect. Mummies abound, sarcophogi run rampant, and somewhere in it all, that famous bust of Nefertiti—yeah, that one—sits glowing in her own room. The building was heavily damaged in the war, and this new New Museum does a brilliant job of incorporating the old structure into a fantastically modern creation. To avoid the lines, reserve a ticket online. U6: Friedrichstr. S5,S7,S75,or S9: Hackescher Markt. Tickets correspond to a time, and after they've been purchased visitors must return at the time printed on their ticket. No line Th 6-8pm. €10, students €5. Free Th after 6pm. Open M-W 10am-6pm, Th-Sa 10am-8pm, Su 10am-6pm. Wheelchair access.
- Soviet Memorial, Str. des 17 Juni WWII tanks and anti-aircraft guns flank this memorial built by the Soviets in 1945. It is estimated that between eight to 10 million Soviets died fighting in the war, including 80,000 who died in the Battle of Berlin. The memorial is expected to be finished by late 2010. Bus #100: Pl. der Republik. Head south through Tiergarten to Str. des 17 Juni and take a right. Free. Open 24hr. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
- Brandenberg Gate, Pariser Pl. During the day, tourists swarm this famous 18th-century gate; the wise traveler will return at night to see it lit in a blaze of gold. Friederich Wilhelm II built the gate as a symbol of military victory, but Germans these days prefer to shy away from that designation, you know, because of WWI and, uh, WWII. A system of gates once surrounded it, but today only this most famous gate remains. U55: Brandenburg Tor. Free. Open 24hr. Wheelchair access.
- Humboldt University, Unter den Linden 6 Home to some of the greatest thinkers of the modern age, including Freud and Einstein, this university is closed to the public and doesn't make much of a sight touring-wise, but it's neat to stop by and feel like you're somehow being involved in something. During the day, vendors sell used books out in front. Maybe you'll find Einstein's old unread copy of The Mayor of Casterbridge. U2: Hausvogteipl. From the Metro, walk north along Oberwalstraße. Wheelchair access.
- The Kennedys, Pariser Pl. 4A (www.thekennedys.de), A mostly photographic exhibit of this family that had such strong ties to Berlin. Incomprehensibly, this musuem has a book of its entire exhibit in the lobby and bookstore. Just look through this and save the money. The museum also features various temporary exhibitions. Bus TXL 100/200. €7, students €3.50. Open daily 10am-6pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Victory Column, Großer Stern 1 (www.monument-tales.de), This 27m tall monument celebrates Prussia's victory over France in 1880. The statue of Victoria at the top is made of melted-down French cannons, and during WWII, Hitler had the statue moved to its present location to increase its visibility. The column is under renovation; an exhibition that examines the significance of various “monuments” built throughout the world is expected to be finished in 2011. U9:Hansapl. Present your ticket at the cafe to get a €0.50 discount on all drinks. €2.20, students €1.50. Open Apr-Oct M-F 9:30am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-7pm; Nov-Mar M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-5:30pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Neue Wache, Unter den Linden 4 This building was built as a guard house for the nearby city palace (hence, “New Watch”). The building has been used as a number of memorials since then, and in 1969 the remains of an unknown soldier and an unknown concentration camp victim were laid to rest here. Since 1993 the Neue Wache has served as the central memorial of the Federal Republic of Germany for the Victims of War and Tyranny. A statue of a mother holding her dead son stands alone in the center of an enormous empty room. U2: Hausvogteipl. From the Metro, walk north along Oberwalstr. Free. Open daily 10am-6pm. The interior of the monument is still visible when the building's gate is closed. Wheelchair access.
- Bebelplatz, Bebelpl. In 1933, a crazed group of Nazi students raided the Humboldt library and burned over 20,000 volumes of “un-German” books written by Jews, communists, and homosexuals. A plaque displays Heinreich Heines's prophetic words: “Only where they burn books, will they eventually burn people.” Visitors can look down through a glass window into a library full of empty white shelves. It's spooky. U2: Hausvogteipl. From the Metro, walk north along Oberwalstr. Wheelchair access.
- Schloßplatz, Schloßpl. Schloßplatz manages to be a sight where castles themselves are feuding. The Berliner Schloß, the Hohenzollern imperial palace stood on this spot until the communists tore it down in 1950 to build the Palast der Republick. After reunification, the Palast der Republick was torn down, this time to make way for a replica of the Berliner Schloß. The new building will house the collections of Humboldt University among other exhibitions. Construction is set to start in 2013 and finish in 2019. Currently, the field sits open in some parts, while others are under excavation. A nearby visitors center has German-only information on the forthcoming building. U2: Hausvogteipl. From the Metro, walk north along Oberwalstr. and take a right on Französische Str. Continue it across the canal bridge. Visitors center open daily 10am-6pm. Wheelchair access.
- Fernshehturm, Panoramastr. 1A (www.tv-turm.de), At 368m, the Fernshehturm, literally”TV Tower,” trumps all other sky-ticklers in the EU. It's shaped like a lame 1950s space probe on purpose; commies wanted folk to think of Sputnik when they saw it. In the DDR's defense, it wasn't its biggest miscalculation. This supposed “triumph of Soviet technology” was actually completed by Swedish engineers when construction faltered. Elevators now shoot more than a million people each year to a height of 200m where they can dig a 360° panorama, grab a drink at the bar, or stomach an incredibly pricey meal. The height plays especially well in Berlin, which has few tall buildings. U2, U5, U8: Alexanderpl. €10.50, under 16 €6.50. Open daily Mar-Oct 9am-midnight; Nov-Feb 10am-midnight. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Rotes Rathaus, Rathausstr. 15 This imposing red brick structure looks like the world's most intense East Coast private high school, but it used to be the East Berlin City Hall and now houses the Berlin Senate. Senate? In Berlin? But Berlin's a city! Well, actually, traveler, Berlin is one of the 16 states that make up the Federal Republic of Germany. Each district of Berlin has a mayor, and individual state senators who conduct business at the Rotes Rathaus. It's closed to the public and currently under construction, expected to finish in 2010. U2: Klosterstr. From the Metro, head north.
- MarienKirche, Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 8 (www.marienkirche-berlin.de), The oldest still-standing medieval church in Berlin (est. 1270) has one of the most frightening murals you'll ever see: a line of saints and kings perform the dance of death alongside a line of skeletons who look more like space creatures from The X-Files. There's a Dan Brown novel here waiting to be written. U2, U5, U8: Alexanderpl. Free. Open daily in summer 10am-9pm; in winter 10am-6pm. No wheelchair access.
- Saint Hedwig's Cathedral, Hinter der Katholischen Kirche 3 (www.hedwigs-kathedrale.de), Named after Harry Potter's owl (not really), the biggest and oldest Catholic cathedral in the city also looks like no cathedral you've seen before. Round like a yurt, this church's altar is actually a level down, while the seats are located on the ground level. The interior has also been recently renovated with a cool Space-Age roof and hanging sets of 10 glowing balls that make the place feel like something out of Kubrick. Still, the place is rich in history, having been established as a haven for Catholics by Frederick II in 1773. U2: Hausvogteipl. From the Metro, walk north along Oberwalstr. Look for the copper dome. Free. Open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa 10am-4:30pm, Su 1-5pm. No wheelchair access.
- Reichstag, Pl. der Republik 1 (www.bundestag.de), Visitors to the German parliament building can climb the roof's 1200-ton glass dome that looks down into the main chamber as a symbol of the “openness” of German democracy. It also serves to focus sunlight into the government chambers via an aggressive spire of mirrored fragments that juts down toward the floor. A free, automated audio tour tracks your movements up and down the nearly 300m ramp. Stop off at the very top for a swell view of the Berlin skyline and to marvel at the fact that this dome—and therefore the Reichstag—has no roof. Rain, snow, and sleet all fall into the building and land in a giant “cone” located on the dome's floor. Visitors can trek around the roof terrace to avoid the solar panels that make the Reichstag the world's only zero-emission congress. Across the way stand a series of futuristic government offices that have been affectionately termed “the Washing Machine.” If viewing democracy makes you hungry, stop at the restaurant located on the roof. Bus #100: Pl. der Republik. Free. Open daily 8am-10pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Shloß Bellevue, Spreeweg 1 This palace, home of the German president, was the first Neoclassical building in Germany. What? That doesn't excite you? Then try this: when there's a gala, watch from the street as the privileged drink cocktails. U9: Hansapl. From the Metro, head east past the Victory Column. Never open to you.
- Hi-Flyer Balloon, Wilhelmstr. (www.air-service-berlin.de), The best thing that can be said about the Hi-Flyer Balloon is that it actually gets cooler as you approach it. What looks like an annoying, touristy balloon becomes a pretty enormous, annoying, touristy balloon. Even so, if you want a 15min. trip 150m into the air, this balloon obliges. Always call ahead to see if weather conditions allow for flying. U6: Kochstr. €19, students €13. Open daily Apr-Oct 10am-10pm; Nov-Mar 11am-6pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Berliner Dom, Am Lustgarten (www.berlinerdom.de), You'll probably spend the whole time thinking how big a bowl of cereal the inverted dome would make; in other words, it's a fantastically enormous dome and a ridiculously beautiful church. “Dom” means cathedral in German; since this 1905 church belongs to the Protestants, it's technically not a cathedral, but in terms of grandeur it blows away most cathedrals you've seen. A museum upstairs shows various failed incarnations of the church, and if you climb some sketchy-feeling backstairs, you can actually get to a roof terrace lookout. Don't forget the basement with the most luxurious crypt you've ever seen, housing the ghosts of lightweights like the Hohenzollern kings. U2, U5, U8: Alexanderpl. €5, students €3. Open Apr-Sept M-Sa 9am-8pm, Su noon-8pm; Oct-Mar Ma-Sa 9am-7pm, Su noon-7pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Altes Museum, Am Lustgarten (www.smb.museum), A newly organized collection of Roman and Estruscan antiquities now takes up the entire first floor of this incredible musuem. Though this museum's cool in another context, those who've seen its flashier cousins, the Pergamon and the Neues, might be a bit disappointed. Check it if you've got the time; skip it if you don't. U2, U5, U8: Alexanderpl. €8, students €4. Free Th after 6pm. Open M-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-10pm, F-Su 10am-6pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Alte National Galerie, Bodestr. 1-3 (www.smb.museum), This fantastic, small collection of mostly German art does special justice to masters like Adolph Menzel. While the building also houses several Monets, Van Goghs, and some Cézannes, the wealth of the place is in its German collection. Music fans will note the famous portrait of Richard Wagner. U2, U5, U8: Alexanderpl. €8, students €4. Free Th after 6pm. Open M-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-10pm, F-Su 10am-6pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Bode Museum, Am Kupfergraben 1 (www.smb.museum), Though interesting to some folk, the Bode Museum largely contains medieval art and Christian iconography, and if we have to explain to you why this is cool, you probably won't find it cool. The gorgeous building, which looks like it's floating on the water, is worth a free entrance on a Thursday night, but unless 100 depictions of Christ is your thing, your time's better spent elsewhere. U2, U5, U8: Alexanderpl. €8, students €4. Free Th after 6pm. Open M-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-10pm, F-Su 10am-6pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Akademie der Künste, Pariser Pl. 4 (www.adk.de), Exhibits rotate every two months in this eye-pleasing modern museum that serves as the headquarters for the Akademie der Künste, an society of famous German artists. Exhibits tend toward the bold and progressive in media ranging from photo to design to traditional painting. Incredibly, the walls of this exhibit hall are the original 17th-century pieces, and the modern hall has been built around it. Bus #100 or #200 to Brandenburg Tor. €5, students €3-4. Free 1st Su of the month. Open Tu-Su 11am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Tiergarten, Tiergarten Stretching from the Brandenburg Gate in the east to the Bahnhof Zoo in the west, this Balrog-sized park is at the heart of Berlin and contains some of its most famous iconic monuments including the Column of Victory and the Soviet War Memorial. Str. des 17 Juni bisects the park from east to west, and frequently hosts parades or celebrations. During the 2010 World Cup, the city blocked off the entire street from June to July and presented the World Cup on 10 enormous screens to daily hordes of thousands of fans. It was drunk and it was loud. The park also contains some beautiful paths and gardens that can offer solace from the hipster invasion. Bus #100 or #200: Brandenburg Tor. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Dorotheen Municipal Cemetery, Chausseestr. 125 Hegel, one of the most important historians of the 19th century, lies dead here along with Bertold Brecht, who might be the most important playwright of the 1900s. If graves don't get your blood running, this body grove also makes a great park. A map near the entrance points out graves of interest. U6: Oranienburger Tor. From the U-Bahn, head north on Chausseestr. Open daily 8am-dusk. Wheelchair access.
- Unter Der Linden, Unter Der Linden Many of Berlin's most famous sites, including Bebelplatz, the Neue Wache, and the Berlin Opera House, lie along this wide boulevard, which dates back to the 16th century, when it was a palace path leading to the royal hunting grounds. The street gets its name from the rows of linden trees that run through the middle. Today, the path makes perfect grounds for biking, especially at night, while during the day small cafes and ice-cream shops feed the mostly tourist crowd roaming the grounds. The statue of Frederick the Great starts the row of trees, and nothing less than the Brandenburg Gate ends it. If you're lucky—and somewhat unlucky—a group of drunk Aussies will pedal by on the 10-person bicycle-beer bar that runs up and down this street. Bus #100 or #200: Brandenburg Tor. Wheelchair access.
- Tacheles, Oranienburger Str. 53 An unforgettable experience day or night, this bombed-out department store has become a living, breathing street-art metropolis. Bars, galleries, a movie theater, faux beach exterior, and sculpture garden/workshop all exist where every available space is covered in graffiti art, human piss, or both. But it's worth it. Seating options in the outside bars range from lifeguard towers to forklifts. U6: Oranienburger Tor. Free to enter; most galleries cost €1-5. Open 8am-late. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Centrum Judaicum: New Synagogue, Oranienburger Str. 28-30 (centrumjudaicum.de), The New Synagogue, built in 1866, was once one of the most awesome Jewish temples in Europe, with 3200 seats and a 50m dome. Almost completely destroyed, first by Nazi violence, then by American bombs, after 1989 the building's exterior and dome were restored, and the building became the museum, cultural center, and miniature synagogue that it remains today. The exhibit on the original synagogue is small and only justified by a pre-existing interest in the building's history. The dome, too, disappoints somewhat, and most visitors will be satisfied with a strut past the front. U6: Oranienburger Tor. Information in English. Permanent exhibition €3, reduced €2. Dome €1.50, reduced €1. Open Apr-Sept M 10am-8pm, Tu-Th 10am-6pm, F 10am-5pm, Su 10am-8pm; Oct and Mar M 10am-8pm, Tu-Th 10am-6pm, F 10am-2pm, Su 10am-8pm; Nov-Feb M-Th 10am-6pm, F 10am-2pm, Su 10am-6pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
- Potsdamer Platz, Potsdamer Pl. Berlin's answer to Times Sq. feels like the inside of the Death Star, since an enormous antenna-like spoke sticks down from what seems a giant satellite dish. This new commerical center of Berlin sees fancy tourist-heavy restaurants serve unexciting food beside a fountain that actually is exciting. The square additionally has three movie theaters, a Sony Design store, and a museum dedicated to German film history. U2: Potsdamer Pl. Free. Hours vary. Serves alcohol.
- Neue National Gallerie, Potsdamer Str. 50 (www.smb.museum), The be-all end-all of early 20th-century painting in Berlin, this museum's building is almost as famous as its collection. Strange temporary exhibits live upstairs in the so-called “Temple of Light and Glass” designed by Mies van der Rohe, while the basement holds a treasure trove of primarily German paintings and sculptures. Works by Edward Munch, Franz Marc, and Max Ernst are just a few of the highlights. Sadly, in the 1930s, key works were labeled “degenerate” by the Nazis and have since disappeared from the collection. Missing works appear as black-and-white photocopies and are still hung throughout the gallery. U2: Potsdamer Pl. Audio tour included in the price of admission. €10, students €5. Free Th after 6pm. Open M-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-10pm, F-Sa 10am-6pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Museum for Film and Television, Potsdamer Str. 2 (www.deutsche-kinemathek.de), A fun little exhibit on the history of German cinema, with a special emphasis on the work of Fritz Lang and Marlene Dietrich. Not a must-see, but the production photos and set drawings of The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari and Metropolis are worth the admission price alone. Film buffs will be rewarded, and film gruffs will still find a few things to tickle them. A TV library lets visitors watch old German TV. If you thought their wars were crazy.. U2: Potsdamer Pl. €5, students €3. Audio tour €4/3. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-6pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
- Zions Church, Zionskirchstr. 44 (www.zionskirche-berlin.de), This quiet little church in North Mitte suffered damage and looting after the war and only recently have modest renovation efforts begun. While the 140-year-old church may not have the history of some of Berlin's houses of worship, its neglect makes a visit here all the more worthwhile. A beautiful tower rises high from a natural hill while the church's interior remains unadorned, empty, and candlelit. U8: Roenthaler Pl. From the Metro, head northeast on Weinbergsweg. Free. Open daily 9am-7pm. No wheelchair access.
- Bertold Brecht Haus, Chausseestr. 125 (www.adk.de), Bertold Brecht revolutionized theater with such masterworks as the Three Penny Opera, and this tour lets you glimpse into his personal life. While Brecht only lived (and died) here from 1953 to 1956, the same is true of his other addresses—Brecht “changed countries as often as shoes,” so don't feel like you're getting a raw deal. Preserved by his wife, the Brechtian actress Helen Weigel, Brecht's apartment (two studies and the bedroom where he croaked) contains his library and other small artifacts of note. Come with an English-speaking crew so they do the tour in English; otherwise you'll be stuck reading along and wondering if the Germans are mocking you each time they laugh. U6: Oranienburger Tor. From the U-Bahn, head north on Chausseestr. The house will be on your left. There isn't a good sign or anything, so look for the address. All tours are guided. €4, students €2.50. Tours every 30min. Tu 10-11:30am, 2-3:30pm. W 10-11:30am. Th 10-11:30am, 5-6:30pm. F 10am, 10:30am, and 11:30am. Sa 10-noon, 1-3:30pm. Su 11am, noon, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
- Hackescher Markt, Hackescher Markt Grungy electric didgeridoo acts rock off against angsty singer/songwriters who trade chords with father/son jazz duos. Vendors hawk wares and street artists juggle fire in this beautiful square that runs along the train tracks. Tons of outdoor restaurants. Plaid is everywhere and there's an American Apparel for kids. Yikes. S5, S7, S9, S75: Hackescher Markt. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Hamburger Banhoff Museum, Invalidenstr. 50-51 (www.hamburgerbahnhof.de), This modern art museum does a good job of mixing traditionally recognized modern masterworks (Andy Warhol, etc.) with whacked out temporary exhibitions. Maybe you'll enter a room where clowns throw basketballs at you from TV screens. Maybe you find a room filled with a large black tunnel and you'll feel sorry for the security guard who works here alone with this tunnel. While you should avoid getting his job, the museum itself is massive, stretching the entire length of the old station house. If modern art even slightly tickles you, this joint's worth a look. S5, S7, S9, or S75: Hauptbahnhof. €12, students €6. Open Tu-F 10am-6pm, Sa 11am-8pm, Su 11am-6pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Deutscher Dom, Gendarmenmarkt 1-2 (www.bundestag.de), Originally an 18th-century Protestant church, this building was completely destroyed during the war. It has now been rebuilt and houses a museum of German government called “Milestones, Setbacks, Sidetracks.” The exhibit is only in German, and though the free English audio tour helps, the main enjoyment of this building comes from considering its estimation of Nazi dictatorship as a “setback” and looking up the narrow belltower from the lobby. U2: Hausvogteipl. Free. Open daily Oct-Apr 10am-6pm; May-Sept 10am-7pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
- Gendarmenmarkt, Gendarmenmarkt The plaza that includes the Deutscher Dome also contains Koncerthaus Berlin, where the Berlin Philharmonic Symphony plays, and the Französischer Dom, an 18th-century church built for French Huguenots (Protestants). In July, the Berlin Symphony Orchestra plays free night concerts outside, while the tower of the Französischer Dom provides a view of the city. Easily one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. For a kick, read some of the menus of the fancy cafes around the square that try to be”bourgeois hip” and offer such pairings as currywurst and champagne. U2: Hausvogteipl. Französischer Dom Tower €2.50. Tower open daily 10am-6pm. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
- Currywurst Museum, Schützenstr. 70 (www.currywurstmuseum.de), The hilarious Currywurst Museum expertly traces the origins of this Berlin treat from a small kitchen in Germany to the mouths of Berliners everywhere. Exhibits are very hands-on (squeeze a ketchup bottle and it sings to you) and sometimes mouths-on, since each ticket comes with a sample of the wurst in question. A gift shop sells sausages, hats, shirts, spices, and more. Good story and great resource for the currywurst scholar. U2, U6: Stadtmitte. €11, students €7. Entrance includes a cup of currywurst. Open daily 10am-10pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
