San Isidro Overview

One hundred thirty-eight kilometers southeast of San José, the city of San Isidro de El General, also known as Pérez Zeledón, is a center of modernity among several rural villages. Though the urban streets are unusually clean and friendly, the attractions of the asphalt terrain pale in comparison to the beauty and serenity of the surrounding countryside. The city makes for an ideal springboard for trips into the surrounding national parks and other areas of southern Costa Rica, where rustic splendor contrasts with the city’s bustle.

While finding the right bus out of San Isidro is complicated by the fact that the five different companies that share the town don’t share destinations, all five have well-staffed and well-marked stations, which makes things a little easier.

• Musoc (☎2771 0414) buses go to San José from the terminal on the Interamericana Hwy. between C. 2 and 4 (3hr., every hr. 5:30am-5:30pm plus at 6:30pm F-Sa, ¢1935). Ticket office open daily 6am-5:30pm.
• Transportes Blancos (☎2771 2550), located on the curve between Av. 2 and Av. 4 on the east side of town and marked by a Soda Quepos sign, has buses to: Dominical (1½hr.; 7, 9am, 4pm; ¢800); Puerto Jiménez (6hr.; 6:30am, 3pm; ¢2300); Quepos (3½hr.; 7, 11:30am, 3:30pm; ¢1300); Uvita (2hr.; 9am, 4pm; ¢950). Ticket office open daily 6:15-11am and 1:30-4pm.
• Tracopa (☎2771 0468), on the corner of the Interamericana Hwy. and C. 3, has service to Golfito (3.5hr.; 10am, 6pm; ¢1520), San Vito (3½hr.; 9, 11am, 2:30, 7pm; ¢2820), the Panamanian border at Paso Canoas (4hr.; 8:30am, 4, 7:30, 9pm; ¢1520). Ticket office open M-Sa 4:30am-7pm, Su 4:30am-3pm.
• Gafeso (☎2771 0097), next to Transportes Blancos, has buses to Buenos Aires (1½hr.; direct at 5:15, 7:20, 10am, 12:15, 3, 5pm; indirect at 6, 8:30, 11:30am, 1:30, 4, 7:45, 10pm; ¢685). From the local bus terminal on the south side of the mercado, buses leave to nearby villages including Quedabras (11 per day, 15min., 6:45am-7:25pm; ¢250) and San Gerardo (1hr., 2pm, ¢900). Another bus to San Gerardo leaves from the west side of the parque at 5am.
• Taxis: They line the north and west sides of the parque central, south of Av. 6 between C. Central and C.1, next to MUSOC bus terminal. Going to San Gerardo is ¢10,000.

Orientation And Practical Information

Unlike most other towns in Costa Rica, San Isidro has well-marked streets with signs on almost every corner near the center of town. Avenida Central and Calle 0 meet at the northwest corner of the parque central. Overlooking the eastern side of the parque central, the spires of the large modern cathedral, visible from most places downtown, serve as useful landmarks.

• Tourist Information:
• • CIPROTUR, Av. 1/3, C. 4 (☎2771 6096 or 2771 2003; fax 2772 0222; www.camaradecomerciopz.com), in the back of the blue Coopealianza building. Provides free maps and can answer questions about San Isidro and offers other information about tours and activities in the surrounding area. Internet access also available (¢300 per hr.). Open M-F 7:30am-noon and 1-5pm.
  • Selva Mar, Av. 2/4, C. 1 (☎2771 4582; www.exploringcostarica.com; www.selvamar.com). Gives information on tours to Bahía Drake, Delfines, Isla del Caño, Parque Nacional Corcovado, Tortuguero, Golfo Dulce, and Parque Nacional Chirripó and also arranges various other travel services. Open M-F 7:30am-5:30pm, Sa 8am-noon. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Oficina Regional de Cultura-Zona Sur (☎2771 5273; dirculturazonasur@gmail.com), inside the mercado near the entrance to the bathrooms. Works to support cultural activities within the region of southern Costa Rica and can provide information on artisan groups and other cultural events in the area. Open M-F 8am-4pm.
• Banks: All offer currency exchange and 24-hr. ATM.
• • Banco Nacional de Costa Rica (☎2785 1000), on the northeast corner of the parque at Av. Central, C. 1. Changes traveler’s checks and gives V cash advances. Open M-F 8:30am-3:45pm.
  • Banco de Costa Rica, Av. 4, C. 0/2 (☎2770 9996). Open M-F 8am-6pm.
  • BAC San José, Av. 4, C. 0/1 (☎2771 3080 or 2295 9797). Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm.
  • Western Union, Av. 2, C. 0/2 (☎2771 8535 or 2771 3534), on the 2nd fl. of the large yellow building. Open M-F 7:30am-4:30pm, Sa 7:30am-noon.
• Bookstore: Libreria San Isidro (☎2771 7802; www.libreriasanisidro.com), next to the BAC San José on Av. 4. Office supplies and copying services available on the 1st fl. (b/w ¢2, color ¢300). 2nd fl. holds books, magazines, and posters, mostly in Spanish. Open M-F 7:30am-7:30pm, Sa 8am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Library: Biblioteca Municipal (☎2771 3816), on the corner of Av. Central and C. 2. Travelers can read in the pleasant, well-lit library but cannot check out books. Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-noon.
• Laundry: Av. Central/2, C. 4 (☎2771 4042). Less than 3kg ¢1300 per kg; more than 3kg ¢800 per kg. Open M-F 7am-6pm, Sa 7am-4pm.
• Public Toilets: On the north and south sides of the mercado. With toilet paper ¢150. Open M-Sa 6am-6pm, Su 6am-noon. Also available on the north side of the cathedral (¢150). Open M-F 7am-5:30pm.
• Police: (☎2771 3608 or 2771 3447), less than 1km from the parque; walk 200m to a small bridge over Río San Isidro, then 300m farther on the left, or speak with one of the many officers on duty around town.
• Red Cross: Emergency ☎911. Toll-free ☎128. Ambulance ☎2771 0481.
• Pharmacy: Farmacia San Isidro (☎2771 1567), on Av. Central, north of the parque. Open M-Sa 7am-8:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Hospital: Hospital Clínica Labrador (☎2771 7115 or 2772 6464), the large, blue-and-yellow building 5 blocks south of the cathedral on C. 1. Open daily 7am-8pm for appointments and 24hr. for emergencies. English-speaking.
• Internet Access:
• • Connect@ Internet Café, Av. 10, C. 0/2 (☎8342 7708), across from the soccer stadium, is a 400m walk from the mercado but has the fastest Internet access at the best rate, as well as Skype-capable computers. ¢300 per hr. Open daily 9am-10:30pm.
  • Fast Web Internet Cafe, Av. Central/C. 4 (☎2770 2331), directly across from the laundry at the top of a green stairway, offers the same rate on a slightly older computer system. Open M-Tu 8am-5:30pm, W-F 8am-8pm, Su 8am-3pm.
  • CIPROTUR office also has several computers available for use (¢300 per hr. and printing services b/w ¢100, color ¢300.
• Post Office: Av. 6/8, C. 1 (☎2771 0346). Offers fax service. Open M-F 8am-5:30pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Postal Code: 11901.

Accommodations

Most of San Isidro’s budget and mid-range accommodations are located around the parque central. Other, more expensive and luxurious accommodations stick to the perimeter of town and the surrounding mountains. All of the tour agencies in town are equipped to help travelers find a place to stay.

• Hotel Chirripó, Av. 2, C. 0/1 (☎2771 0529), on the south side of the parque . Located behind a small restaurant of the same name, Hotel Chirripó’s large windows light up the pleasant, peach-walled and tiled hallways. Bright rooms have fans, TV, and hot-water baths. Singles and doubles with shared bath ¢5500/9000; singles with bath ¢8300, doubles 14,000, triples 17,500, quads 24,000.
• Hotel El Valle, Av. Central/2, C. 2 (☎2771 0246), 1 block west and 1 block south of the parque’s northwest corner. This well-kept establishment has signs throughout the establishment command “silencio” and “no visitors, no exceptions.” Rooms are furnished with closet, table, TV, and chair. Singles and doubles with shared bath ¢6000/8500. With hot-water baths and cable ¢7500/11,000. Triples ¢17,000.
• Hotel Astoria (☎2771 0914), on Av. Central facing the north side of the parque, with another entrance on the Interamericana Hwy., across from the courthouse.  Though the long, mint-green hallways provide a barrier against the bustle of the city outside, the corridors leading to the hotels small rooms convey a somewhat institutional feel. Parking near the highway entrance. Singles ¢3000; doubles and triples with private hot-water bath and cable TV ¢5500 per person.

Food

In addition to sodas and restaurants, you can stock up on essentials at Supermercado La Corona on Av. 2 between C. 3 and the Interamericana Hwy. (☎2771 5252; open M-Sa 7am-9:30pm, Su 8am-8pm; AmEx/MC/V) or at the even larger Supermercado Central Coopeagri (☎2785 0227) just south of the local bus terminal. (Open M-Sa 7pm-9pm, Su 8am-4pm.) Dominated by sodas, raw meat shops, and produce vendors, the Mercado Municipal smells of fish and fried food all day. (Located between Av. 4/6, C. 0/2. Open M-Sa 6am-6pm, Su 6am-noon.)

• Soda Chirripó, Av. 2, C. 1 (☎2771 8287), on the southeast corner of the park. Catering mostly to locals watching sports on its small TV, this large soda with white-tile countertops and an ice cream freezer feels more like a diner than a traditional soda. Serves everything from pancakes with fruit (¢1350) to casados (¢1850-2500). Also has a cheaper fast-food menu (¢650-1100). Open daily 6:30am-6pm. MC/V.
• Piccolina Pizza & Restaurante, Av. 8/10, C. 0 (☎2771 8692 or 2771 0031; www.piccolinapizza.com) across from the Palí supermarket. An open-front restaurant with large tomato, shrimp, and onion pizza (¢5750). Pasta (¢2250-2800) and milkshakes (¢1200). Delivery available. Open daily 11am-10pm. MC/ V.
• Panaderia Surpan (☎2771 5878), on the corner of Av. 6 and C. 0. Tasty tico delicacies like bread stuffed with beans and cream (¢680) and tamal asado (coconut cornbread) (¢235) as well as other cakes and breads. Open M-Sa 5am-8pm, Su 5am-noon.
• Marisquería Don Beto (☎2771 7000; www.marisqueriadonbeto.com), 100m past Clínica Labrador on C. 1. This seafood restaurant offers both outdoor seating and a big-screen TV. Seafood options include fried sea bass stuffed with baby shrimp (¢3400) to seafood soup (¢2000). Open daily 8am-9:45pm.

Sights

The Complejo Cultural is located on Av. 1, C. 2, next to the municipal library. Performances are posted on an announcement board just outside the building. (☎2771 2336 for more information. Local shows about ¢1500). The Fundación para el Desarrollo del Centro Biológico Las Quebradas (FUDEBIOL) is a reserve in the mountains above the Quebradas River Basin, 7km from downtown San Isidro. To get to the reserve, take the bus to Quebradas from the main bus station (15min. past the hr. starting at 8:15am) and get off at the last stop. Walk 2.5km up to the dirt road, turning right at the FUDEBIOL sign, and continue until the end of the road. Managed by a group of devoted volunteers, FUDEBIOL is open to the public. Learn about conservation at Las Quebradas, hike through bird-filled trails to impressive waterfalls, visit the reserve’s butterfly garden, or simply enjoy its streams and lagoon. Its isolated location makes this reserve as relaxing as it is educational.Up to 30 people can stay at the center’s mountain lodge (¢7000 per night), or you can join the staff every Sunday for a traditional tico breakfast (Su 8-11am; ¢3000). Most casual observers stick to a daytrip. (☎2771 4131 for information and reservations. Open M and W-Th 7am-3pm. US$2 entrance fee.)