San Sebastián (pop. 180,000) glitters on the shores of the Bay of Biscay. An elaborate, Romantic-style boardwalk, elegant waterfront palaces, and wide golden beaches give the city an air of gentility masking the 21st-century edge found in its boutiques, surf shops, and nightclubs. Ever since Queen Isabel II made Playa de la Concha popular in the mid-19th century, the city has been a fashionable vacation venue for much of Europe’s aristocracy. Still, its cosmopolitan air doesn’t interfere with its strong sense of regional culture. San Sebastián once stood as one of Spain’s great ports, but much of it was destroyed during the 1813 Peninsular War, when an invading Anglo-Portuguese force dislodged Napoleon in the process of setting fire to the city. The ruined walls were finally torn down in 1864, amid the construction of a more modern city replete with French architectural influences. Today, San Sebastián draws tourists old and young to bathe and surf along its beaches, hike its mountains, and enjoy its lively and friendly atmosphere.
Flights: Airport in Hondarribia, (☎ 943 66 85 00; www.aena.es), 22km east of the city. Iberia (☎ 943 66 85 21; www.iberia.es) flies to Madrid. Air Nostrum (☎ 902 40 05 00; www.airnostrum.es) flies ...more
The Río Urumea splits San Sebastián down the middle, with the parte vieja (old town) to the east, and El Centro (the new downtown) to the west, separated by the wide pedestrian Alameda del Boulevard ...more
Small pensiones are scattered throughout the noisy parte vieja. For a more restful night’s sleep farther from the action, look for hostales and pensiones on the outskirts of El Centro. Many pensiones ...more
Pintxos (tapas), chased down with local sidra, are a religion here. Bars line the streets in the parte vieja, where arrays of enticing tidbits on toothpicks cover countertops everywhere. The modern Mercado ...more
MUSEO CHILLIDA-LEKU. The Museo Chillida-Leku houses a large collection of the works of Eduardo Chillida, San Sebastián’s contemporary art guru and former Harvard University professor. His stone and ...more
Several sports-related groups offer a variety of activities and lessons. For kayaking, call the Federación Gipuzkoaka de Piragüismo, Po. de la Concha, 18. (☎ 943 44 51 03. €7 per hr. Open July-Aug ...more
San Sebastián is a great city for cultural events and festivals. Highlights of the year are the renowned, week-long Jazzaldia jazz festival in late July and the equally prestigious San Sebastián International ...more
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