Nicknamed the “balcony over the Tagus,” Santarém (pop. 60,000) is a 3000-year-old city known for its ancient churches connected to the Knights Templar, traditional farming festivals, and the best view of the Tejo in all of Portugal. From religious festas in the winter months, to bike festivals in the fall, to a celebration of national theatre in the spring, this small city is in constant motion. The prime time to visit Santarém is in the first days of June, when the city holds its Feira Nacional de Agricultura, a renowned festival featuring bullfighting, good food, and wild, yet traditional, celebration.
The historic center consists of narrow grid-like streets typical of old Portuguese cities. The main square is Praça Sá da Bandeira. From there, Rua Serpa Pinto and Rua Capelo e Ivans run through the core of old Santarém. Avenida Sá da Bandeira marks the outer edge of the historic center and meets Avenida Afonso Henriques at the “W” shopping center. Av. Afonso Henriques runs to the newer part of the city, and passes the bullfighting stadium in Praça de Touros.
Accommodation prices, while never rock-bottom in Santarém, increase during the Ribatejo fair in early June.
Many small eateries reside in the narrow streets around R. Capelo e Ivens and R. Serpa Pinto. The municipal market, in the pagoda on Lg. Infante Santo near Jardim da República, sells fresh produce. (Open M-Sa 6am-2pm.) The somewhat pricey Supermercado Minipreço, R. Pedro Canavarro, 31, is on the street leading from the bus station to R. Capelo e Ivens. (Open M-Sa 9am-8pm.)
Portas Do Sol. Imposing Moorish walls surround this tranquil park of flowers and fountains, high above the Rio Tejo and the Alentejo plains. Climb the stone steps to the top and take in the timeless beauty of the surrounding countryside. Don’t be surprised if you’re the only one noticing the spectacular view, though; the park serves as Santarém’s prime spot for lovers’ rendezvous. A quiet cafe, a large birdcage, and a playground are enclosed by the ancient castle walls. (Take R. Serpa Pinto to R. São Martinho, past the Torre das Cabaças, and stay right as the road becomes Av. 5 de Outubro after the abandoned Art Deco theater. Open daily June-Aug. 9am-10pm, Sept.-May 9am-6:30pm. Free.)
Praça Visconde De Serra Pilar. Centuries ago, Christians, Moors, and Jews gathered for social and business affairs in this small praça . (Take R. Serpa Pinto from Pr. Sá da Bandeira.) The 12th-century Igreja de Marvila, off the praça , was revamped in the late 17th century with traditional ornamentation of the era, and is undergoing another renovation in 2008. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of the exterior; the azulejo -covered interior is dazzling, as is the Manueline entrance. (Open Tu-Su 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm. Free.) The early Gothic minimalism of nearby Igreja da Graça contrasts with Marvila’s exuberance; construction began in 1380 on the orders of the first earls of Ourém, and the cloister dates back to the 16th century. Inside, in the Capela de São João Evangelista, lies Pedro Cabral, the explorer who “discovered” Brazil, and one of the few of his crew to live long enough to return home. (Open Tu-Su 9am-12:30pm and 2pm-5:30pm. Free.)
Torre Das Cabaças. The medieval Torre das Cabaças (Tower of the Gourds) was named after the eight earthen bowls installed in the 16th century to amplify the sound of the bell’s ring. Today the tower serves as the Museu de Tempo. The interior walls of the tower are peppered with clocks and sundials from different eras and civilizations. Buy tickets across the street at the small Museológio de Arqueologia e Arte Medievais, which has a hearty collection of medieval cookware and an exhibit comparing Christian and Muslim influences on Santarém. (Take R. Serpa Pinto to São Martinho, past Pr. Visconde de Serra Pilar. Open W-Su 9am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm. Tower €1, Archaeology Museum €2, both €2.50; under 25 €0.50/1/1.25.)
Most of the fun in Santarém takes place outside the historic center. Every other Sunday, bargain hunters flock to the large market in front of the bullfighting stadium, where they sift through mounds of goods, from clothes to furniture to pets. (Open 7am-2pm.) This is also the location of the annual Festival Nacional de Gastronomia, a giant celebration of Portuguese cuisine in late October or early November. Better known is the Feira Nacional de Agricultura (a.k.a. Feira do Ribatejo), a 10-day extravaganza of markets, bullfighting, and farmers racing tiny horses. The party starts the first week of June and continues until the 11th or 13th. When there is no BBQing or horseback riding to be done, however, Santarém is a little lethargic, especially in comparison with Lisboa. A few sleepy pubs can be found beside the shopping center, along R. Pedro de Santarém, the road that leads to the bullfighting stadium in Pr. de Touros.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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