Sierpe Overview

Founded about 60 years ago, tiny Sierpe was originally a community of banana plantation farmers. The 15km road from Palmar leading to this serene, rural town is now lined with palm tree farms and cattle ranches. Ecotourism is the crux of Sierpes’s economic livelihood, so residents are friendly to travelers and eager to pitch boat tours of the area’s abundant flora and fauna. In addition to ferrying visitors back and forth to Bahía Drake, local boat owners offer numerous tours of the surrounding mangroves, Isla de Caño, and Parque Nacional Corcovado. These voyages all begin on the charming Río Sierpe, which meanders around the edge of town.

Transportation. To get to Sierpe from anywhere in Costa Rica, you must first travel to Palmar Norte . From there, buses run to Sierpe (30min.; 5:30, 6:30, 9:30, 11:30am, 2:30, 5pm; ¢350.) Buses leaving Sierpe depart from the bus stop across the street from El Fenix (30min.; 7:30, 8:30, 10:30am, 1:30, 4, 6pm; ¢350). Taxis leave from the other side of the park (¢6000).

Orientation And Practical Information. The parque central and Bar/Restaurante Las Vegas on the parque’ s southwest corner comprise the heart of the tiny village. Facing the parque central, a large building called El Fenix holds a convenience store of the same name, offers tourist information, and sells tickets for the TRACOPA buses to San José from Palmar (¢4255). The 24hr. police station (☎2788 1439) is located across the street from Las Vegas. Internet access is available at Las Vegas. (☎2788 1082. US$6 per hr. US$1 per 10min. Open daily 6am-10pm.) Public phones are scattered throughout town with a large cluster located on the north side of the park.

Accommodations. If you do spend the night in Sierpe, Hotel Margarita , 200m inland from the northwest corner of the parque central, past the soccer field, offers the best rates in the area. The friendly owner will put you up in brightly furnished rooms with powerful fans and access to a lukewarm communal bath. (☎2788 1474. Laundry available. Singles ¢4000; doubles ¢8000; triples ¢12,000. Singles, doubles, triples with private hot-water bath ¢15,000. US$/¢.) Two hundred meters east of the soccer field on the main road out of town, Cabinas Sofia has the some of the nicest rooms in town. Brand new rooms feature A/C, hot water, bath, and Internet access as well as shared use of an enclosed patio with comfy chairs and a river view. (☎2788 1229. Singles, doubles, and triples US$40.) The more posh Hotel Oleaje Sereno is just down the street from Las Vegas as you walk west from the park. Wood-furnished rooms have enormous private bathrooms with hot water, parking, and A/C. Guests eat breakfast at the open-air soda on the riverfront (pancakes, cereal, coffee, and gallo pinto ¢3500 for non-guests). Upscale dinner options include shrimp fettuccini (¢5500) and filet mignon (¢5600). (☎2788 1111; www.oleajesereno.com. Laundry service ¢300 per item for guests only. Soda open daily 6am-9pm. Singles US$40; doubles US$60. Breakfast included. MC/V/US$/¢.)

Food.  El Fenix, the largest grocery store in town, offers a wide variety of fresh produce as well as tourist information including bus schedules and advice about traveling to Bahía Drake. (☎2788 1233. Open daily 6am-6pm.) Riverfront Bar/Restaurante Las Vegas , located just north of the northwest corner of the parque, serves fast food and pizzas. They serve up specials such as fried chicken and fries (¢2700) and pizzas (¢4500-7500). Try “The Other Side of the Moon,” with gorgonzola, onion, and parmesan. (☎2788 1005. Open daily 11:30am-8:30pm.)

Outdoor Activities. Countless tour companies with similar prices line the riverfront. Rates per person decrease for larger groups, so try to make friends to split the cost if you’re traveling alone. It’s also a good idea to reserve your tour a few days in advance at all times of the year, but especially during the dry season (Dec.-Apr.). Tour Gaviotas de Osa (☎2788 1212 or 8815 8557; www.tourgaviotasdeosa.com), next door to Las Vegas, offers day-long tours of Corcovado and Caño Island that include meals, transport, guide services, and park entrance fees. (Corcovado US$110; Caño Island US$110 includes snorkeling equipment.) Gaviotas also has shorter (2hr.) mangrove kayaking tours on the Río Sierpe (US$50 per person). Costa Rica Adventures (☎2788 1016; cradventures@gmail.com), on the northwest corner of parque central, offers some of the most interesting tours in town. The 2hr. poison dart frog and bird exploration tour at Sierpe waterfall is best in the early morning or late afternoon (US$25 per person). They also offer half-day horseback tours to Isla Violin (US$75), kayaking tours of the Sierpe River to the mysterious Diquis stones (US$35), and diving tours at Caño Island (US$120). All tours include lunch or a snack. Costa Rica Adventures also rents kayaks (US$20 per day) and snorkeling equipment (US$5 per day). Though expensive, sportfishing is also popular in Sierpe. Aldea del Río (☎2788 1313; www.aldeadelrio.com), on the south side of the park, specializes in sportfishing and can arrange unique trips for each individual. They also offer standard day-long river and ocean trips that include bait, food, and beverages (US$400 river; US$700 ocean; max. 4 people). Costa Rica Adventures also offers ocean fishing for the same price.