Known for its raucous Fiesta de San Juan, the poet Antonio Machado, and surrounding architectural sites, Soria (pop. 38,000) is a vibrant small city. Though things really heat up around the fiesta, there is plenty to do in the low season. In the center of city lies the lush Parque Alameda de Cervantes. The Monasterio de San Jaun de Duero and Ermita de San Saturio rest at the outskirts of Soria. Though it was initially built as a fortress to protect against invasions from neighboring Aragón, today the small city is anything but bellicose. Bars with outdoor seating fill Soria’s plazas, and the banks of the Río Ebro are a serene setting for sunbathing, relaxing, or swimming.
The city center is a 10min. walk from the bus station and a brisk 15min. walk from the train station. There’s a map just to the left of the traffic circle in front of the bus station; you should head out from the traffic circle in the direction you’re facing while reading the map. Walk along Avenida de Valladolid downhill towards the centro ciudad for five blocks and bear right at the fork onto Po. del Espolón, which borders the Parque Alameda de Cervantes. At the end of the park, the main intersection, Plaza Mariano Granados , will be directly in front of you. To reach the center from the train station, take the shuttle, or turn left onto Calle Madrid and follow the signs to centro ciudad. Continue on C. Almazán as it becomes Av. de Mariano Vicén, follow the road for six blocks, and keep left at the fork onto Avenida Alfonso VIII until you reach Pl. Mariano Granados. Carrer Marqués de Vadillo is the main pedestrian street extending from the city center. It becomes C. El Collado, cutting through the old quarter to Plaza Mayor.
Reservations are always a good idea during fiesta week (June 27-July 2).
Countless bars and inexpensive restaurants along C. El Collado and Pl. Mayor offer local specialties like roast lamb and migas (bread crumbs fried with garlic and paprika). Buy Soria’s famed butter at mantequerías in the town center, or opt for fruits and vegetables at the thriving market in Pl. Bernardo Robles on C. los Estudios, off C. El Collado. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-2pm.) A SPAR supermarket is at Av. de Mariano Vicén, 10, four blocks from Pl. Mariano Granados toward the train station. (Open M-Sa 9am-2pm and 5:30-8:30pm. MC/V.)
Ermita De San Saturio. Soria’s most popular sight is definitely worth the 1.5km trek downstream, and is a refreshing departure from the more traditional cathedrals found nearby. From ground-level caves with stained-glass windows to passageways carved out of stone, the 17th-century ermita is a fitting tribute to San Saturio, Soria’s patron saint. On foot, take the scenic route through the lush island of Soto Playa. Turn right just before the main bridge on C. San Augustín and cross the first green footbridge, then take the small wooden bridge at the end. Keeping the river to your left, walk off the small island, following small footpaths and boardwalks (you’ll be on the same side of the river you started on). After the footpath ends, continue on the black and yellow brick roadsidewalk above and to your right, next to the pavement road. The ermita is on your left, accessed across the bridge and up the stairs. (Open July-Aug. 10:30am-2pm and 4:30-8:30pm; Apr.-June and Sept.-Oct. 10:30am-2pm and 4:30-7:30pm; Nov-Mar 10:30am-2pm and 4:30-6:30pm. Free.)
Monasterio De San Juan De Duero. The Monasterio San Juan de Duero sits quietly by the river amid fields of cottonwoods. The church, dating from the 12th century, is one of the most visited in Castilla y León. The graceful arches of its cloister blend romanesque and Islamic styles. Inside, a few cases display medieval artifacts. (Turn left after crossing the main bridge. Paseo de las Ánimas s/n ☎975 23 02 18. Open Tu-Sa July-Sept. 10am-2pm and 5-8pm, Oct.-June 10am-2pm and 4-7pm; Su year-round 10am-2pm. €0.60; groups of 15 or more with appointment €0.30 per person; under 18, over 65, and students free. Sa-Su free.)
Museo Numantino. Across from the alameda park, the museo exhibits a collection of Celtiberian and Roman artifacts excavated from nearby Numancia. (Po. del Espolón, 8. ☎975 22 14 28. Same hours as Monasterio. €1.20; groups of 15 or more €0.60 per person with prior arrangement; under 18, over 65, and students free. Sa-Su free.)
For a town of its size, Soria has a vibrant nightlife, especially during fiesta month (almost all of June). As the moon rises, revelers of all ages flood the outdoor seating at bars in Plaza Ramón Benito Aceña, a stone’s throw from Pl. Mariano Granados and the adjacent Plaza San Clemente, off C. El Collado. Late-night discotecas center on the intersection of Rota de Calatañazor and Calle Cardenal Frías, near Pl. de Toros . Greens, near the Plaza de Toros, has outdoor seating, and is a good place to have a calimocho (wine and coke; €1.50) and people-watch. Nearby, Mitos has loud music and a dance floor, as do many of its neighbors. A few small clubs and a number of bars with a more relaxed atmosphere lie near Calle Zapatería. Spend a night surrounded by quirky Irish decor while hanging out with hip sorianos at the intimate tables of Bar Ogham, C. Nicolás Rabal, 3, on the side of the park opposite Po. del Espolón. (☎975 22 57 71. Open daily noon-3am. Cash only.)
In summer, Soria hosts concerts and street theater. Pick up the free Actividades Culturales at the tourist office for specific dates. Late June brings Soria’s biggest celebration, the Fiestas de San Juan, which floods the city with celebrants from all over the country, and three weeks of smaller (but equally fun) preceding “prefiestas.” Beginning at midnight the Thursday after Día de San Juan (June 24th) and lasting until Monday, the entire city hits the streets to dance, play music at all hours, drink wine from botas (leather wineskins), watch processions, and, of course, go to bullfights. Patron San Saturio is celebrated on October 2 with a more low-key, day-long festival.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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