Atop a hill and far from the black-sand beaches, Thira’s congested assemblage of glitzy shops, whizzing mopeds, and hyperactive crowds can be overwhelming. Tourist traffic has made it easy to find a hamburger or wiener schnitzel, and groups of hotels fearlessly peer over steep cliffs, almost daring the seismically active island to send them tumbling into the sea. Even kitsch and overcrowding, however, can’t negate the pleasure of wandering the cobbled streets and arriving at the caldera in time to watch the sunset.
Boats dock at one of three ports on the island: Athinios, Thira, or Oia. Most ferries arrive in Athinios and buses meet every boat to take passengers to Thira (25min., €2). Be aware that even if your ferry ticket says “Thira,” you may be landing in the town of Athinios. Thira’s port is down a 588-step footpath from the town; you can walk, take a cable car (☎22860 22 977; every 20min. 6:30am-11pm; €4, children €2, luggage €2), or hire a donkey (€4). All these methods of transportation are fun and scenic. Santorini’s buses run frequently and can take you anywhere you want to go, but they’re often crowded. Arrive at the station 10min. early to make your bus. Estimated journey lengths are based on ideal circumstances; buses often move much more slowly.
From the bus station, walk uphill and to the right to Plateia Theotokopoulou, which is full of travel agencies, banks, and cafes. At the fork, the street on the right is 25 Martiou, the main cobblestone road. It leads from the plateia toward Oia and is home to several accommodations. Head onto the left branch of the fork and turn onto any westbound street to find many of the best bars, stores, and discos. Farther west is the caldera (basin), bordered by Ypapantis, where pricey restaurants, hotels, and galleries bask in the stunning vista.
In summer, pensions and hotels fill up quickly and prices skyrocket. The cheapest options on the island are the youth hostels on Perissa beach and in Oia and camping in Thira. You can find cheaper places in Karterados, 2km south of Thira, or in the small inland towns along the main bus routes—try Messaria, Pyrgos, or Emborio. Hostels and many pensions will pick you up at the port if you reserve ahead.
Inexpensive restaurants are hard to find in Thira, but the few that exist are crammed between shops on the tiny streets between the caldera and the plateia. The caldera is lined with fine dining options that charge hefty prices for their “priceless” views. Generic but convenient snack shops and gyro joints dot the plateia as budget-friendly alternatives for the hungry traveler.
Most visitors are understandably content wandering the town, lying on the beaches, and gazing on the dramatic cliffs of the caldera. If you’re in the mood for some history about the island, however, there are a number of museums scattered near the city center.
The Museum Of Prehistoric Thira. The sleek collection charts the history of excavation and the geology of Thira, as well as the island’s history from the Late Neolithic to the Late Cycladic I Period through fossils, tools, vases, figurines, and other vessels. Of particular interest is Santorini’s pre-eruption civilization and the magnificent city of Akrotiri, which has been reconstructed in a three-dimensional model. The partially restored wall paintings from Akrotiri are beautifully preserved. One from the House of Ladies depicts large blue papyrus plants and slender women at two-thirds life-size, typical of the Theran scale. The equally impressive wall painting of the Blue Monkeys was done by an avant-garde painter for the city. The gold ibex figurine is a miniature masterpiece discovered in 1999 in a wooden box at the site. Each exhibit has detailed signs in English. (Across the street from the bus station toward the caldera. ☎22860 23 217. Open in summer daily 8:30am-8pm; in winter Tu-Su 8:30am-3pm. €3, students and EU seniors €2, EU students free.)
Megaro Gyzi Museum. Housed in a 17th-century family mansion, the Megaro Gyzi Museum documents Santorini’s history with Venetian maps, engravings, and manuscripts from the 15th to the 19th centuries. A collection of old photographs of scenic Santorini before the earthquake of 1956 provides historical context. An interesting group of paintings by well-known Greek painters, all of Santorini landscapes, explore a variety of stylistic influences and use different media. (Off Eth. Stavrou below the clock tower. ☎22860 23 077; www.megarogyzi.gr. Open May-Oct. M-Sa 10am-4pm. €3, students €1.50, under 11 free.)
The Petros M. Nomikos Conference Center. This exhibition center currently displays life-size reproductions of Ancient Thira’s and Akrotiri’s magnificent wall paintings; the prized originals are in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens and the Museum of Prehistoric Thira. The brightly colored and intricately detailed murals give insight into the history and culture of Santorini’s ancient Minoans, as well as the island’s former plant and animal life. In a hallway outside the museum, there is a new photographic tour of the excavation site of Akrotiri. Because the site is still closed to visitors, these real-life photos with English captions are a way to explore Akrotiri and the artifacts found there. (Follow the signs past the cable car station. ☎22860 23 016. Open daily May-Oct. 10am-7pm. Conference center €4, students and seniors €2. Audio tour €3. Photograph exhibit free.)
Beaches. Santorini has a wealth of beaches, many of which are easily accessible from Thira by bus. Kamari is the island’s most popular beach, with a large expanse of fine black sand and a proudly waving Blue Flag award. The festive beach towns of Perivolos and Perissa lie along an endless 9km stretch of black sand on the southeastern coast, welcoming a more casual crowd of beach bums. Bars, restaurants, and laid-back rooms for rent line the beach literally steps from the black sand—it’s hot, so bring sandals. Buses leave Thira for Perissa and Perivolos (20min., every 30min., €1.90). Right by the beach, cheery Youth Hostel Anna in Perissa greets budget travelers with internet and helpful receptionists, who will find you rentals, ferry tickets, diving and snorkeling trips, and sail boat tours. From the bus stop, take the road along the beach, turning left at the main intersection. The hostel is 500m farther on the right. (☎22860 82 182. Reception 9am-2:30pm and 6-10pm. Dorms €12-15; quads €15.) One of the closest beaches to Thira is Monolithos, which has thin, yellow sand and shallow water. You can reach it by bus (€1.40). Some of the best and most peaceful beaches are not directly accessible by bus. If you have your own wheels, be sure to explore Vlychada, a fine black-sand beach backed by white pumice rocks that create a moon-like landscape.
Those who want to catch the summer’s latest blockbusters can go to the open-air cinema in Kamari, where American films (with Greek subtitles) and live concerts take place twice a week; pick up programs at roadside stands in Thira and Kamari. (☎22860 31 974. www.cinekamari.gr. Shows in summer daily 9:30pm.) Villaggio Cinema is an air-conditioned indoor cinema in the Kamari Shopping Center showing American films with Greek subtitles. (☎22860 32 800; www.villaggiocinema.gr.) Thira’s nightlife begins late at night and ends early in the morning. Clubs gear up around midnight or 12:30am. Most line Ethnikis Stavrou, between the caldera and 25 Martiou. Beer is €3-5; mixed drinks run €8-9. On particuarly hectic evenings, there may be a cover (€5-10).
Santorini has a wealth of beaches, many of which are easily accessible from Thira by bus. Kamari is the island’s most popular beach, with a large expanse of fine black sand and a proudly waving Blue Flag award. The festive beach towns of Perivolos and Perissa lie along an endless 9km stretch of black sand on the southeastern coast, welcoming a more casual crowd of beach bums. Bars, restaurants, and laid-back rooms for rent line the beach literally steps from the black sand—it’s hot, so bring sandals. Buses leave Thira for Perissa and Perivolos (20min., every 30min., €1.90). Right by the beach, cheery Youth Hostel Anna in Perissa greets budget travelers with internet and helpful receptionists, who will find you rentals, ferry tickets, diving and snorkeling trips, and sail boat tours. From the bus stop, take the road along the beach, turning left at the main intersection. The hostel is 500m farther on the right. (☎22860 82 182. Reception 9am-2:30pm and 6-10pm. Dorms €12-15; quads €15.) One of the closest beaches to Thira is Monolithos, which has thin, yellow sand and shallow water. You can reach it by bus (€1.40). Some of the best and most peaceful beaches are not directly accessible by bus. If you have your own wheels, be sure to explore Vlychada, a fine black-sand beach backed by white pumice rocks that create a moon-like landscape.
Pyrgos (Πύργος) And Ancient Thira (Αρχαία Φήρα). Once a Venetian fortress, the lofty town of Pyrgos is entirely enclosed by medieval walls. The tiny blue-domed churches dotting this hilltop settlement are a visible legacy of Ottoman occupation. If you continue up past Franco’s Cafe and the large church, you’ll see a small set of steps on the left that leads to rooftop with magnificent, panoramic views. A 45min. hike up the mountain leads to Profitis Ilias Monastery. Built in 1711, it graciously shares its site with a radar station installed by the Greek military, who thought that the station would be safe from attack alongside this antique monastery. The original monastery is open only for formal liturgies; visitors must dress modestly and cover their arms and legs. (Check the schedule outside for current opening times. Free.) A small, newer church sits in the shadow of its imposing predecessor’s looming bell towers, with a small, well-kept garden and chapel providing shelter from the mountaintops’ gusty breezes. The unmarked entrance can be found by walking along the left side of the final path; a friendly, multilingual monk greets the few visitors upon entry and answers questions. (Open daily 10am-1pm. Free.)
From Profitis Ilias, the ruins of Ancient Thira are a 1hr. hike away. (Open Tu-Su 8:30am-2:30pm. €2. EU students free.) This challenging trek gives hikers the opportunity to unleash their inner mountain goat as they scramble over the rocky, exposed face of the mountain that separates Kamari and Perissa, revealing fantastic views of the entire island. The winding mountainside path, discreetly descending to the left of the monastery before the radar station, is made up of slippery gravel and craggy rocks, so wear shoes with good traction. Hikers should also keep their eyes peeled for stacks of rocks, red spots, and views of more well-trodden stretches of the path below to navigate the poorly marked first third of the trail. At the site of Ancient Thira, the ruins of the ancient theater, church, baths, and forum of the island’s former capital are still visible, replete with carved dolphins and ruined columns overlooking surrounding islands and sea. ( To reach Pyrgos, take the bus (15min., €1.30) from Thira to Perissa, Athinios, or Akrotiri and ask the driver to let you off at Pyrgos, from where you can hike to the site. To reach Ancient Thira directly, take a bus to Kamari or Perissa (20min., 32 per day, €1.90). Climb the long paths (1hr.) up the mountain beside the water to reach the ruins. Access to the ruins from Kamari is by a paved road, but from Perissa only by footpath. The monastery is also accessible by road from Pyrgos.)
Akrotiri (Ακρωτήρι) And Red Beach. The volcanic eruption that rocked Santorini in the 17th century BC blanketed Akrotiri with lava. Despite destroying the island, the disaster gave Akrotiri a Pompeii-like immortality, preserving the maritime city more completely than almost any other Minoan site. In 1967, its paved streets were uncovered by Professor Spiridon Marinatos. Only an estimated 3-5% of the massive city has been excavated, but the sprawling remains attest to the sophistication of Minoan society, with multi-storied houses and extensive sanitary, sewage, and drainage systems. Each house had at least one room decorated with wall paintings; the originals are at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens as well as in the Museum of Prehistoric Thira. The wall paintings are the earliest large-scale examples of this art form in Europe, and they provide valuable information about daily Minoan life. Since no skeletons were found in the city, scholars theorize that everyone escaped before the eruption devastated the area. Due to construction and “technical reasons” involving a lawsuit, the area has been shut down until further notice. Check with tourist agencies in Thira to see if the site has reopened and to confirm hours. (Take the bus from Thira; €1.70.)
There is not much happening in the village of Akrotiri, 1km from the archaeological site, but there are a few mid-range hotels and restaurants. Carlos Pension offers rooms with baths; some have balconies with views of the southern part of the island and the sea. (☎22860 81 370. Doubles €35-55; triples €45-65.) To enjoy a meal as the ocean laps at your feet, follow the signs down the road perpendicular to the archaeological site on the way to Red Beach to reach Dolphins Fish Restaurant . Diners sit under umbrellas on sun-drenched piers extending onto the water. (☎22860 81 151. Seafood €6.50-€40. Open daily noon-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Away from the ancient site, past the Dolphins Fish Restaurant, is the magnificent Red Beach, a 15min. walk from the Ancient Akrotiri bus stop. Though Santorini is renowned for its black beaches, this stretch’s remote location, smooth sand, and brick-red cliffs set it apart. The narrow, red beach is, unfortunately, crammed with umbrellas and beach chairs.
Volcano And Thirasia (Θηρασία). The little islands along Santorini’s caldera rim cater to curious visitors tired of viewing the volcanic strata from afar. The most popular boat excursion goes to the active volcano (€2), with a 30min. guided hike up the black rocks to see the crater. Views from the top of the volcano are spectacular. Most boats make a stop afterward in the nearby waters of Palea Kameni or Nea Kameni, where you can jump off the boat into the green, chilly water, then swim to the orange-colored hot sulfur springs—more luke-warm than hot. A longer excursion goes to the island of Thirasia, stopping for about 2hr. on the island. At the port, there is not much besides tavernas, so consider hiking up to explore the towns. Built along Thirasia’s upper ridge, the sleepy, whitewashed villages of Manolas and Potamos have gorgeous views of Santorini’s western coast. Tour groups dock at Korfos or Reeva. From Korfos, you’ll have to pant up 300 steps to get to the villages; Reeva has a paved road. All travel agencies sell boat tours of the caldera, ranging from 3hr. excursions to the volcano and hot springs (€18-25) to full-day cruises including dinner and sunset views in Oia (€38-42); no single travel agency offers every option. Ask around to find the right tour to suit your interests.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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