Maori legend holds that when Maui fished up North Island from his South Island canoe, Stewart Island was his anchor stone. Named Rakiura in Maori for “the place of glowing skies,” the island sees red sunsets and the aurora australis in winter. Most of the time, the muddy tracks and remote beaches are what visitors find on the island where kiwis still vastly outnumber Kiwis. Celebrating this untouched splendor, Stewart Island became New Zealand’s newest national park in 2002. Birdlife abounds, with rare birds thriving on Ulva Island, and droves of penguins crowding the beaches. The island’s 400 or so residents cluster in the fishing village by Halfmoon Bay, weathering over 275 days of rain per year. They insist, with good reason, that you haven’t seen New Zealand until you’ve seen the pristine beaches and primeval bush of this unique habitat.
Stewart Island lies 35km across the Foveaux Strait from Bluff, the nearest mainland town. The island’s primary human settlement is tiny Oban (oh-BAN), also known by its location as Halfmoon Bay. Elgin Terrace curves along the bay, while Ayr Street, Main Road, and Horseshoe Bay Road branch inland. Nothing in town is farther than a 15min. walk. Golden Bay Road crosses to Paterson Inlet in the south (10min.), and Horseshoe Bay Rd. and Elgin Terr. lead along the water to quiet beaches and coves. Travelers should be aware that there are no banks or ATMs on the island, and though credit cards are accepted at many places, a pocketful of cash is a must.
The influx of non-budget visitors to the island in recent years has caused the hostel scene to shrink, creating a crunch during peak times (or whenever the Stray Bus shows up). Booking ahead is crucial, but if you find yourself with no place to stay, contact the Stewart Island i-Site, as there are several small places that may have room. At the centrally located Stewart Island Backpackers , 18 Ayr St., the rooms and enormous lounge are connected by covered boardwalks. (☎219 1114. Reception 7:30am-noon and 1-7pm. Dorms $24; singles $30; doubles $50. Tent sites $10. MC/V.) For a more intimate experience and a home-cooked breakfast to boot, stay at Jo and Andy’s B&B 3, at the corner of Main Rd. and Morris St. (☎219 1230. Singles $35, doubles $45. Cash only.) Two spacious decks allow The View , 22 Deep Bay, is a 25min. walk from town. Call for a pickup to enjoy the outdoor toilet and the birdsong in this isolated cabin. (☎219 1219. $50 for 2; $10 per extra person. Sleeps up to 4. Cash only.)
Dr. Britt’s Swedish-themed Justcafé , on Main Rd., is a mellow place to plan adventures and savor one of the southernmost cappuccinos New Zealand has to offer ($4). Don’t let the name fool you—homemade sandwiches ($7-9) and baked goods ($2-4.50) are available, too. (☎219 1422. Mac-based Internet $2.50 per 15min. Open Oct.-June daily 9am-5pm. Cash only.) After the half-pipe, the Kai Kart , set in an old trailer on Ayr St., serves up fresh local seafood at rock-bottom prices. (☎219 1225. Takeaways from $3. Dinner mains from $15. Open 11:30am-2:30pm and 5-9pm. Cash only.) The only pub in town is the comfortable South Sea Hotel Restaurant and Pub , at the corner of Main Rd. and Elgin Terr., where locals mingle to tell stories about, and drink like, fish. (☎219 1059. Mains from $14. Internet $2 per 15min. Open daily Dec. to mid-Apr. 7-10am, 11:30am-2pm, and 6-9pm; mid-Apr. to Nov. 8am-8pm. Pub open from 11am until “as late as necessary.” Cash only.) The Crazy Fish , on Main Rd. next to Justcafé, offers wood-fired pizzas ($16-30) and drinks (beer and wine $5-12). You can also catch a screening of various independent and foreign films ($18) in the adjoining movie theater. (☎219 1429; www.thecrazyfish.co.nz. Open daily 5pm-9pm. Cash only.) Ship to Shore (4 Square), on Elgin Terr., sells vitals. (☎219 1069. Open Oct. to mid-Apr. daily 7:30am-7:30pm; mid-Apr. to Sept. daily 7:30am-6:30pm.)
Stewart Island’s star is the elusive brown kiwi, and those who venture into the wilderness won’t come away disappointed.
Stewart Island is famous for its long, muddy hikes, but an interconnected network of easy dayhikes start in Halfmoon Bay; the DOC office can help you to plan an itinerary. Observation Rock, a 15min. walk beyond Ayr St., affords prime sunset views over Paterson Inlet. The 3hr. round-trip walk to Ackers Point, east of town, is a great option for dusk, as muttonbirds nest there. Quiet, sandy beaches are close to town along any coastal road. The Golden Bay/Deep Bay walk (2hr. round-trip) affords forest-framed views of the striking Patterson Inlet. Follow Ayr Rd., then Golden Bay Rd., and look for signs. For a brief glimpse of native bush, try the Fern Gully walk (2hr. round-trip). Take Main Rd. onto Kaipipi Rd. and follow track signs. The Garden Mound/Little River/Lee Bay walk (4-5hr. round-trip) climbs to a lookout at Garden Mound and then emerges from the bush where the Little River meets the sea at Lee Bay. Walk along Horseshoe Bay Rd. for nearly 1hr., then turn left on Lee Bay Rd. and look for track signs.
The astounding diversity of birdlife on both Stewart and Ulva Islands makes for fascinating, accessible birdwatching that will charm even the most adrenaline-hungry naysayers. The avian superstar of New Zealand is the kiwi, and the Stewart Island variety has the distinction of being common and visible. Trampers on the Northwest Circuit have the best chances for kiwi spotting, but short trips to scenic Mason Bay by boat or plane are a good alternative to spending 10 days in the backcountry. The multi-talented Furhana of Ruggedy Range (☎219 1066; www.ruggedyrange.com) leads overnight kiwi-spotting trips from Freshwater Landing to Mason Bay. (4-6 people. $385 per person. Price includes all meals, DOC fees, water transport, and cooking gear. Booking essential.) For travelers who don’t want to stay overnight, Bravo Adventure Cruises (☎219 1144; philldismith@xtra.co.nz) leads twilight boat cruises to Mason Bay with flashlight-guided 4hr. kiwi walks. Independent trips to Mason Bay are possible, either by arranging a water taxi to Freshwater Landing Hut ($50 one-way) or by taking a charter flight from Stewart Island flights. Flights can depart from either Invercargill or Oban. If you intend to stay the night in the Mason Bay hut, be sure to book through the DOC before departing.
While kiwi-spotting can make for an excellent excursion, thousands of exotic birds inhabit the area. Ulva Island, just a quick (6-8min.) boat ride from Golden Bay wharf (a 10min. walk from town over Golden Bay Rd.), has the distinction of being one of the largest predator-free sanctuaries in the world. Several rare and endangered bird species have been reintroduced onto the island after rodent eradication was completed in 1997. Several water taxi companies travel to Ulva Island ($20-25 per person; book at the Stewart Island i-Site), but the best way to get the most out of the island is to take a guided walk with a trained bird-spotter. Ruggedy Range leads small, species-counting parties on half- or full-day walks. (4-12 people. Half-day $85 per person, full-day $135. Price includes water transport, DOC fees, and meal for full-day trips. Booking essential.) In a line of work that may well have been named for her, Ulva Goodwillie of Ulva’s Guided Walks (☎219 1216; www.ulva.co.nz) does half-day and full-day trips as well, drawing from her local knowledge. (Half-day trips $95, full-day with included lunch $160. Price includes transportation and DOC fees. Booking essential.) The DOC Summer Visitor Programme has periodic guided half-day trips to Ulva Island during January and February ($65, children $35; 4-8 people. Book ahead.)
Stewart Island’s fishy beginnings (see Stewart Island) have led to a lot of ways to enjoy the surrounding waterways. Chartered trips are great way to see the area, and most companies offer fishing and hunting options, as well as guided walks. Contact the following companies directly, or talk to the Stewart Island i-Site to see who’s free: Aurora Charters (☎219 1126; www.auroracharters.co.nz), Bravo Adventure Cruises (☎219 1144; philldismith@xtra.co.nz), Lo Loma (☎219 1141; info@seabuzzz.co.nz), Rawhiti Excursions (☎219 1023), Southern Isle Charters (☎219 1133; lhhansen@xtra.co.nz), and Takaroa 2 Cruises (☎212 8170; takaroa@ihug.co.nz). For those who want to see what lies under the water, Seabuzzz (☎219 1282; www.seabuzzz.co.nz), offers 2hr. trips into Big Glory Bay to see the salmon and mussel farms through their glass-bottomed boat ($60, min. 2 people). The Underwater Explorer, run by Stewart Island Experience (☎212 7660; www.stewartislandexperience.co.nz), offers 45min. semi-submersible tours of Halfmoon Bay, through forests of bladder kelp (1-3 tours daily. $35 per person).
Stewart Island Adventures (☎219 1429; www.stewartislandadventures.co.nz), from their location in the “Red Shed” on the wharf, organizes morning and overnight cruises (2hr. morning cruise to Ulva and beyond, $59. Call ahead for overnight prices and availability.), however, their Rakiura Yak About 4hr. adventure cruise is the most wet and wild of their offerings, with a cruise to a remote location and included kayaks and wet suits. ($98 per person. Lunch and snorkel or fishing gear available onboard for extra cost. Departs daily at 2pm.). For a self-made adventure, Liz at Rakiura Kayaks (☎219 1160; www.rakiura.co.nz) offers multi-day kayak rentals ($40 per day, discounts with longer rentals).
For those who prefer to see nature from a safe distance, Stewart Island Flights (☎218 9129; www.stewartislandflights.com) offers a variety of scenic flight options over and around the surrounding territory, offering a chance to see many of the places usually accessible only by days of muddy tramping. (30min. Departs from Halfmoon Bay. $275 per plane, up to 5 people.) Stewart Island Helicopters (☎219 1429; www.stewartislandadventures.co.nz) offers the same luxury, but in a helicopter (Heli-flightseeing from $155). Several road tours of the island’s history and scenery are available, from Stewart Island Experience (☎212 7660; 1hr. $35) and Ruggedy Range (☎219 1066; 2hr. $35.) After all your adventures, the serene Stewart Island Spa, run by Dr. Britt Moore of Justcafé, offers myriad relaxation options from its scenic perch high in the hills above town. The outdoor bush bath ($95 for 1 or 2 intimately acquainted people) is the epitome of relaxation, with exotic birds flitting about your lavender-scented toes. (Reiki, hot stone, and Thai massage from $95. To book, call or drop by Justcafé; see Food, above. MC/V.)
An occasionally monotonous boardwalk below the bushline, the Rakiura Track lacks the flash of more scenic Great Walks. There’s plenty to delight birdwatchers and botanists, from silver-throated tui to exquisite hanging orchids. The track is too close to the development of Halfmoon Bay to support many kiwi, but the alternation between beach and forest makes for an enjoyable tramp nonetheless.
Halfmoon Bay To Port William Hut. 12km, 4-5hr. This stretch is easily Rakiura Track’s most scenic; many hikers attempting the trail in two days opt to linger for most of day one on this leg. The leg also makes for a popular dayhike or overnight stay. Skirting the coastline from Lee Bay, the track soon reaches Little River, a sandy inlet surrounded by dense brush. Farther on, Maori Beach, a popular dayhike from Halfmoon Bay, serves as a good rest spot before the final hour’s walk to the hut. The bug-filled campsite features several sites amid the tall dune grass, a basic shelter, water, and an outhouse. The trail follows Maori Beach, where, at its end, a swing bridge crosses a wide tidal estuary. From there the path turns inland and uphill before splitting. The north fork leads 45min. to Port William Hut (20 bunks). The hut area is a laid-back place, with a nearby campsite and picnic tables sheltered under gum trees. Five minutes before the hut, just before the wharf, is the junction for the Northwest Circuit .
Port William Hut To North Arm Hut. 12km, 5-6hr. Back at the track junction, the westward fork steadily ascends over an extensive boardwalk and two swing bridges, eventually reaching the spectacular Lookout Tower. It’s amazing what a difference five kilometers can make; a lush canopy of rata, rimu, and spindly inaka extends down to Patterson Inlet, with mountains looming in the distance. Past the tower, the track continues to climb, reaching an elevation of 305m before beginning a steep, undulating descent. About halfway to the hut, a junction branches off to the other side of the Northwest Circuit. The North Arm Hut (24 bunks) is set above a rocky shore; camping is not permitted.
North Arm Hut To Town. 12km, 4-5hr. This lackluster section of graveled track has some elevation change along the way to Sawdust Bay Campsite, a simple shelter with scraggly trees and a bayside location. After passing a small spur to the lovely Kaipipi Bay, the track follows a steady grade, trading boardwalk for faster walking on a long-abandoned logging road, which leads out of the forest along roadways 2.5km back into town.
Announce that you are planning to hike the Northwest Circuit on Stewart Island, and the average Kiwi’s eyes will either glaze over in awe or narrow in criticism of your sanity. After all, ten days in the backcountry is one of the longest DOC treks possible, and most New Zealanders “couldn’t be bothered.” And effort it does require—the knee-to-thigh-deep mud is legendary, but what doesn’t get talked up as much is the frequent scramble on all fours up steep hillsides and the ballet of tree-root jumping. However, tramp and ye shall receive isolated beaches, unparalleled wildlife viewing, and permanently discolored boots.
Halfmoon Bay To Port William Hut. 12km, 4-5hr. See The Rakiura Track. Leaving early in the morning from town, stopping for lunch at Port William Hut, and then reaching Bungaree Hut by the afternoon is a popular first tramping day, though there is no need to rush, and you might appreciate the chance to eat off a bit of your pack weight by stopping here for the night.
Port William To Bungaree Hut. 6km, 3-4hr. Though the beginning parts of this leg are well-planked, this quickly disappears as you cross the first big saddle, where your torrid love affair with the island’s mud begins. After several undulating hills through dense bush, the track descends first to a swing bridge by Little Bungaree Beach, and then over a smaller headland to the calm 1km sweep of Big Bungaree Beach. Bungaree Hut (16 bunks) occupies a scenic perch at the far end and is a comfortable spot for a little fishing and paua diving. This stretch also makes for an excellent short overnight tramp from town for the curious.
Bungaree To Christmas Village Hut. 11.5km, 6hr. The tramping begins here in earnest as you head inland past Gull Rock Point. After roughly 3km of up and down, the track reaches Murray Beach for a lovely 2km beach walk before crossing the Murray River over a swingbridge and heading back into the bush. The track travels about 5km through more unrelenting, undulating bush before reaching Christmas Village Hut (12 bunks), less than a kilometer past Christmas Village Bay. Just past the hut, a well-defined path leads up to Mt. Anglem/Hananui (11km, 6hr. round-trip), the island’s highest point at 980m. If it’s a nice day, the views from the top can justify the extra day spent getting there and back.
Christmas Village To Yankee River Hut. 12km, 6hr. Regardless of whether they’ve been naughty or nice this year, trampers awake in Christmas Village to face another day of bush tramping and, say it with us, undulating terrain. The positive thing about it, however, is that the first 5.5km until Lucky Beach follow higher ground and are generally dry. After the swingbridge into Lucky Beach, sandflies will cause you to curse your luck and send you back up into the forest, where you’ll need to pay attention as you look for the continuing trail. A solid 4km later, you’ll descend to the Yankee River Hut (16 bunks), located a few minutes downstream from its namesake river.
Yankee River To Long Harry Hut. 8.5km, 5hr. After crossing the Yankee River via swingbridge, the trail ascends steeply over Black Rock Point and down onto hilly Smoky Beach, which is a welcome sight for sore legs. After 2km of beach walking, the track crosses the Smoky River, and though another swingbridge is ready to assist, the river can be waded easily unless flooded or during peak high tide. After the crossing, the trip to the hut can be a hairy one, but you can rejoice in the fact that the DOC moved Long Harry Hut (12 bunks) to a more scenic location 1.5km to Yankee River.
Long Harry To East Ruggedy Hut. 9.5km, 5-6hr. This scenic stretch of the trek often ranks among trampers’ favorites, mainly for the penguin-viewing and fishing opportunities in Long Harry Bay and the lookout over East Ruggedy Beach. The track starts with a short 1.5km of forest walking to Long Harry Bay. Afterward, the trail climbs over Cave Point to follow a ridge before descending back down 30min. to rocky coastline; follow the coastline until the sign directs you back into the scrub. The track ascends steeply once again until the panoramic lookout over East Ruggedy Beach and the Rugged Islands. The subsequent descent to the beach involves crossing soggy sand, but don’t worry, there’s little danger of being swallowed. East Ruggedy Hut (12 bunks) is reached after 15min. of walking along the poles marking the track in the sand dunes.
East Ruggedy To Hellfire Pass Hut. 14km., 7-8hr. This long, difficult stretch can try the patience of even fit trampers, but the views at the end are worth it. From East Ruggedy Hut, the track descends onto West Ruggedy Beach (make sure you get the route correction from the DOC, as the topographic map has yet to be updated), following the beach for 2km. Check on the tide level before setting out on the beach. The track then re-enters the bush and climbs over the Ruggedy Mountains (yes, over them) before descending into Waituna Bay. The track climbs back up through mind-boggling mud and continues along a ridge for 3km until Hellfire Pass, location of the Hellfire Pass Hut (12 bunks).
Hellfire Pass To Mason Bay Hut. 15km, 7hr. This last push before Mason Bay is one of the most down and dirty, ascending from Hellfire Pass up to follow a ridge for about 2km before gradually descending into Little Hellfire Beach for 1km. Afterward, the track climbs over Mason Head and descends finally into Mason Bay, where you are likely to find many other people who haven’t expended nearly as much energy to get there. If you arrive during high tide, the first stretch of beach can be difficult to navigate. It may be best to wait and walk on the hard-packed low-tide sand. The Mason Bay Hut (20 bunks) is located a few minutes up Duck Creek and is well-marked by a large pole. Early evening is the best time to go out looking for kiwis, but remember not to shine your flashlight directly at any you may find, as their eyes are incredibly sensitive. One of the entrances to the Southern Circuit (toward Doughboy Bay Hut) can be found by following the beach south from Duck Creek and looking for the bouys.
Mason Bay To Freshwater Landing Hut. 15.5km, 3-4hr. This stretch of the track is blissfully flat and quick. However, in times of flood or heavy rain, allow extra time to get through. The track advances to the Island Hill Homestead just after Mason Bay Hut, and after 2km, you’ll pass around Lower Island Hill. Beyond the hill, you’ll cross a marshy, boardwalked area along and finally across Scott Burn, but beware of the so-called Chocolate Swamp. The Freshwater Landing Hut (16 bunks) is just over the swingbridge on the other side of the Freshwater River. There is an optional side-trip from the hut to Rocky Mountain (5km, 3hr. return), which affords decent panoramic views of the area. One of the entrances to the Southern Circuit (toward Fred’s Camp Hut) begins directly opposite the hut.
Freshwater Landing To North Arm Hut. 11km, 6-7hr. The difficulty of this stretch of track often tempts trampers to book a water taxi back to town from Freshwater Landing. Simply put, you spend the majority of your time climbing inland up slippery slopes but without the bonus of scenery and wildlife. Start by following the Freshwater River and then go up and over Thompson Ridge. Several of the small rivers in this stretch can become impassible in heavy rain. The ridge descends steeply over a swingbridge onto the Rakiura Track, where you’ll arrive dazed and exhausted, but only 45min. from the North Arm Hut (24 bunks).
North Arm Hut To Town. 12km, 4hr. See The Rakiura Track. Follow the former Kaipipi Rd. as it becomes Main Rd. into town, terminating at the South Sea Hotel for a well-earned beer. Don’t forget to sign-out at the DOC before you leave!
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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