Rome Eur

The EUR (AY-oor), south of Ostiense, stands apart from Rome’s other neighborhoods, with a different aesthetic and a markedly slower pace of life. Instead of ancient piazze, Roman ruins, and meandering, narrow streets, EUR is composed of straight, wide boulevards in a strangely perfect street grid, brimming with apartment high-rises that house many of Rome’s white-collar doctors and lawyers. Built in a modern Neoclassical style all its own, EUR was to be the site of the 1942 World’s Fair that Mussolini intended to showcase Imperial (well, let’s be honest, Fascist) achievements. The new, modern Rome was to shock and impress the rest of the world with its ability to build dozens of futuristic rectangular buildings that all look the same. World War II meant cancellation of the fair and demands on manpower and material, ensuring that EUR would never complete Mussolini’s dream of extending Rome to the sea. German and Allied occupation during the war left EUR in such bad shape that it was labeled a “modern Pompeii.” Although it was rebuilt for the 1960 Rome Olympics, the under-touristed area feels like it is missing something: restaurants and shops.

Arriving via the EUR-Fermi stop delivers you to the foot of the laghetto (little artificial lake). Behind it, you’ll see the massive dome of the Palazzo dello Sport, which is used today as a major sports and concert venue. In front of the lake reside a few of Rome’s only skyscrapers. A turn right down V.C. Colombo will take you to Piazza Marconi, laden with museums and Mussolini’s 1939 obelisk, dedicated to the Fascist mantra that citizens exist to serve the state. Continuing on V. Cristoforo Colombo and then turning left down V. della Civiltà del Lavoro will bring you to the Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro, undoubtedly EUR’s definitive symbol. A distinctly Modernist marble rectangle, it still manages to evoke Classical architectural allusions, winning it the accolade of the “square Colosseum.” If modern and postmodern Neoclassical architecture is your thing, be sure also to compare the Palazzo del Congresso (at the other end of V. della Civiltà del Lavoro) and the Piazzale degli Archivi (at the east end of V. Europa).

Abbazia Delle Tre Fontane. St. Paul is said to have been beheaded in 67 at the site of this Trappist abbey. According to legend, his head bounced on the ground three times, creating a fountain with each touch, hence the name “Abbey of the Three Fountains.” The now-defunct (and unviewable) fountains are contained within the Chiesa del Martirio di San Paolo, the last of three churches lying along the path through the compound’s gate. The column upon which Paul was supposedly decapitated lies in the back-right corner of the chapel. A millennium later, St. Bernard stayed here during his 12th-century visit to Rome. Pick up some potent eucalyptus liqueur (€10 for 50cl) and divine chocolate (€11.50 for a gargantuan 900 gram bar), as well as marmalade, body cream, and shampoo, all made on the premises by Trappist monks. (B-Laurentina. Walk straight and take a right on V. Laurentina; proceed about 1km north and turn right on V. delle Acque Salve. About a 15min. walk, or take bus #761 from Laurentina, get off after 2 stops, and walk the rest of the way. The abbey is at the bottom of the hill. ☎06 54 60 23 47. Open daily in summer 8am-1pm and 3-7pm, in winter 8am-1pm and 3-6pm. Trappist shop: www.labottegadeitrappisti.it. MC/V.)

Il Grotto Delle Tre Fontane. On April 12, 1947, Bruno Cornacchiola, a leftist trolleyman, was taking a hike with his three children through a grove at the Tre Fontane. His youngest son lost his ball, and when Bruno went to help, he saw a vision of the Virgin of Revelation. She persuaded him to dispense with his plan to assassinate the Pope. To commemorate the conversion, Catholics flock to the outdoor chapel built on the site and pray to the Virgin to preserve the pope’s health. A tunnel to the right of the chapel is lined with personal photographs and hand-written messages asking the Virgin for assistance. To have your own visions without a spiritual awakening, purchase some Trappist absinthe from the abbey next door. (V. Laurentina 450. Diagonally across the street from L’Abbazia delle Tre Fontane. ☎065 91 46 30. Open sunrise-sunset.)

Laghetto Artificiale. It’s a little lake. It’s artificial. Boom, translated. (Impress your friends!) The perfectly rectangular shape is jarring for those accustomed to more realistic imitations, but it gets the job done, just as Mussolini intended. Locals kayak up and down and couples stroll along the banks in the well-manicured Parco Centrale. Pedal-powered boats can be rented on the south side of the lake (opposite side from the Metro) and, in a pinch, overpriced restaurants on all four shores serve seafood from real bodies of water. (Just south of B-EUR-Palasport and B-EUR-Fermi, at Largo G. Pella.)