The largest city in Scandinavia’s biggest country, Stockholm (pop. 1,250,000) is the aptly self-titled “capital of the north.” A focal point for culture and design, the elegant city exists by virtue of a latticework of bridges connecting its islands and peninsulas, uniting different neighborhoods with distinct personalities.
Stockholm spans a number of small islands (linked by bridges and the T-bana) at the junction of Lake Mälaren to the west and the Baltic Sea to the east. The large northern island is divided into two sections: Norrmalm, home to Centralstationen and the crowded shopping district around Drottningg., and Östermalm, which boasts the Strandvägen waterfront and upscale nightlife fanning out from Stureplan. The mainly residential western island, Kungsholmen, features beaches, waterside promenades, and the Stadhuset (city hall) on its eastern tip. The southern island of Södermalm retains a traditional feel in the midst of a budding cafe culture and club scene. Nearby Långholmen houses a nature preserve and a prison-turned-hotel and museum, while the similarly woodsy eastern island Djurgården hosts several popular museums on its western side. At the center of these five islands is Gamla Stan (Old Town). Gamla Stan’s less-trafficked neighbor (via Norrmalm) is Skeppsholmen. Each of Stockholm’s streets begins with number “1” at the end closest to the Kungliga Slottet in Gamla Stan; the lower the numbers, the closer you are to Old Town. Street signs also contain that block’s address numbers.
Reservations are necessary in the summer. In high-season, many HI hostels limit stays to five nights. Some non-HI hostels are hotel-hostel combinations. Specify that you want to stay in a dorm-style hostel, or risk paying hotel rates. Stockholm’s botels (boat-hotels) often make for camaraderie, but they can be cramped—request a room with harbor views. There are also various B&B booking services, including the Bed and Breakfast Agency. (☎08 643 8028; www.bba.nu. Open M 10am-noon and 1-5pm, Tu-W 9am-noon and 1-5pm.) The Sweden House tourist office can also help book rooms (5kr hostel booking fee, 75kr hotel booking fee). An SL or Stockholm Card is the cheapest way for campers to reach some of the more remote campgrounds. The right of public access does not apply within the city limits, although camping is allowed on most of the Skärgård archipelago .
Götgatan and Folkunggatan in Södermalm offer affordable cuisine from around the world, while pizza and kebabs are plentiful on Vasastaden’s Odengatan. The SoFo (south of Folkunggatan) neighborhood offers many trendy cafe options. Grocery stores are easy to find around any T-bana station. Head to the outdoor fruit market at Hötorget for your Vitamin C fix (open M-Sa 7am-6pm), or to the Kungshallen food hall, Kungsg. 44, for a meal from one of the international food stands. (www.kungshallen.com. Open M-F 9am-11pm, Sa 11am-11pm, Su noon-11pm.) The Östermalms Saluhall, Nybrog. 31 (T-bana: Östermalmstorg), is a more traditional indoor market with fish, meat, cheese, fruit, and pastry stands, as well as more expensive restaurants serving Swedish dishes. (www.ostermalmshallen.se. Open M-Th 9:30am-6pm, F 9:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9:30am-4pm.) Take advantage of low lunch prices and track down dagens rätt (lunch specials; 50-80kr) to save money.
With over 75 museums, Stockholm gives visitors plenty to see. Break up your walking tour of the city’s inner neighborhoods with T-bana rides to more remote locations to get a sense of the capital’s scope. The T-bana, spanning 110km, has been called the world’s longest art exhibit—over the past 50 years, the city has commissioned more than 140 artists to decorate its stations. The blue line’s art is particularly notable, but the murals and sculptures of T-Centralen remain the best-recognized example of T-bana artistry.
Gamla Stan (Old Town) . Stockholm was once confined to the small island of Staden. Today, the island is the center of the city. The main pedestrian street is Västerlånggatan, but its maze of small side streets preserves the area’s historic feel. (Tours of the island are available May-Aug. M-Tu and Th 7:30pm. Sept.-Apr. Sa-Su 1:30pm. Meet at the obelisk in front of the southern entrance to the Royal Palace. 60kr. Cash only.) Gamla Stan is dominated by the magnificent 1754 Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace), the winter home of the Swedish royal family. The Royal Apartments and the adjacent Rikssalen (State Hall) and Slottskyrkan (Royal Chapel) are all lavishly decorated in blue and gold, the colors of the Swedish flag. The Skattkammaren (Royal Treasury) houses a collection of jewel-encrusted crowns and other regal accoutrements. The statues in the Gustav III Antikmuseum are worth seeing, and the Museum Tre Konor offers an interesting look at the foundation of a 13th-century castle that once stood on the same site. (Main ticket office and info area at the rear of the complex, near the Storkyrkan. ☎08 402 6130; www.royalcourt.se. Open Feb. to mid-May Tu-Su noon-4pm; mid-May to June 1st daily 10am-4pm; June 1st-Aug. daily 10am-5pm; Sept. 1st to mid-Sept. daily 10am-4pm; mid-Sept. to Dec. Tu-Su noon-3pm. Each attraction 90kr, students 35kr. Combination ticket 130/65kr. Guided tours 1 per hr. AmEx/MC/V.) The Livrustkammaren (Armory) presents an extensive collection of royal clothes, weapons, and coaches. (Slottsbacken 3. ☎08 519 555 44; www.livrustkammaren.se. Open June-Aug. daily 10am-5pm; Sept.-Apr. Tu-W and F-Su 11am-5pm, Th 11am-8pm. May daily 11am-5pm. 50kr, under 20 free. AmEx/MC/V.) Across the street from the palace ticket office is the gilded Storkyrkan church. (☎08 723 3016. Open M-Sa June-Aug. 9am-6pm; Sept.-May 9am-4pm. Church 25kr. 3 tower tours per day in summer. Cash only.) Around the corner on Stortorget, the main square, the Nobelmuseet traces the history of the Nobel Prize and its laureates. (☎08 534 818 00; www.nobelprize.org/nobelmuseum. Open mid-May to mid-Sept. M and W-Su 10am-5pm, Tu 10am-8pm; mid-Sept. to mid-May Tu 11am-8pm, W-Su 11am-5pm. 60kr, students 40kr. Guided English-language tours: M-F 11:15am and 3pm, Sa-Su 11:15am and 4pm. AmEx/MC/V.) For a quirkier attraction, look for Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, the narrowest lane in Stockholm.
Kungsholmen. The Stadshuset (City Hall) has been the seat of local government since the early 20th century. The required tour of the interior takes you through the council room and the enormous Blue Hall, where a 10,000-pipe organ greets Nobel Prize banquet attendees. In the stunning Golden Hall, 18 million shimmering tiles make up a golden Art Deco mosaic. The tower provides the best panoramic view of the city center. (Hantverkarg. 1. T-bana: T-Centralen. ☎08 508 290 58; www.stockholm.se/stadshuset. Tower open daily May-Sept. 10am-4pm. Call the day of your visit to make sure the building is open to visitors. 20kr. Tours daily June-Aug. 1 per hr. 10am-4pm; Sept. 10am, noon, 2pm; Oct.-May 10am, noon. 60kr, students 50kr. AmEx/MC/V.)
Skeppsholmen And Blasieholmen. The collection at the Moderna Museet, on the island of Skeppsholmen (SHEPS-hole-men), contains canvases by Dalí, Matisse, Munch, Picasso, Pollock, and Warhol. ( T-Bana: Kungsträdgården. Bus #65. ☎08 519 552 00; www.modernamuseet.se. 80kr, students 60kr, 18 and under free. Open Tu 10am-8pm, W-Su 10am-6pm. MC/V.) In the same building, the Arkitekturmuseet displays the history of Swedish architecture and design using 3D models. (T-Bana: Kungsträdgården. Bus #65. ☎08 587 270 00. Open Tu 10am-8pm, W-Su 10am-6pm. 50kr, under 19 free. F 4-6pm free. MC/V.) Across the bridge on the Blasieholmen peninsula, the Nationalmuseum, Sweden’s largest art museum, features pieces by Cézanne, El Greco, Monet, and Rembrandt. (T-bana: Kungsträdgården. Bus #65. ☎08 519 544 10; www.nationalmuseum.se. Open Sept.-May Tu and Th 11am-8pm, W and F-Su 11am-5pm; June-Aug. Tu 11am-8pm, W-Su 11am-5pm. 100kr, students 80kr, under 19 free. AmEx/MC/V.)
Östermalm. Among the dignified museums of this trendy area, the Musikmuseet is a quirky, fun stop. Don’t miss the room in the basement where you can try a number of intriguing instruments. (Sibylleg. 2. T-bana: Östermalmstorg, ☎08 519 554 90; www.stockholm.music.museum. Open Tu-Su July-Aug. 10am-5pm; Sept.-June noon-5pm. 40kr, students 20kr, under 19 free.) Less than a block away, the Armémuseum chronicles Swedish military history. All signs are in Swedish, so be sure to pick up a language guide at the ticket desk. (Riddarg. 13. T-bana: Östermalmstorg, exit Sibylleg. ☎08 519 563 00; www.armemuseum.se. Open Tu 11am-8pm, W-Su 11am-5pm. July-Aug. Tu 10am-8pm, W-Su 10am-5pm. 50kr, under 19 free.) For a more complete account of Swedish history, head to the Historiska Museet, which plays host to famous collections of both Viking and ecclesiastical memorabilia. (Narvav. 13-17. T-bana: Karlaplan. ☎08 519 556 00; www.historiska.se. Open May-Sept. daily 10am-5pm; Oct.-Apr. Tu-W and F-Su 11am-5pm, Th 11am-8pm. 50kr, students and seniors 40kr, under 19 free.)
Djurgården. This national park is a perfect summer picnic spot. The main attraction is the haunting Vasa Museet, home to a massive warship that sank in Stockholm’s harbor during its maiden voyage in 1628; it was salvaged, fantastically preserved, three centuries later. (From the Galärvarvet bus stop, take bus #44, 47, or 69. ☎08 519 548 00; www.vasamuseet.se. Open June-Aug. daily 8:30am-6pm; Sept.-May W 10am-8pm, M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-5pm. 95kr, students 50kr. AmEx/MC/V.) Next door, the Nordiska Museet explores Swedish cultural history from the 1500s to the present day. (☎08 519 546 00; www.nordiskamuseet.se. Open June-Aug. daily 10am-5pm; Sept.-Aug. M-Tu and Th-F 10am-4pm, W 10am-8pm with free admission from 4pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm. 60kr, special exhibits 60kr. AmEx/MC/V.) The Gröna Lund amusement park features a handful of rides, including roller coasters. (☎08 587 502 00; www.gronalund.se. Open daily late Apr. to late Aug., usually 11am-11pm; around Midsummer, open until 10pm; check website for detailed schedule. Prices vary throughout the year, from 65kr-120kr.) A large portion of Djurgården is home to Skansen, an open-air museum established in 1891 that features 150 historical buildings, a small zoo, and an aquarium. Stroll along the hilly paths of the Old Town to find Sámi dwellings, schoolhouses, and an elk or two. Many festivals and events are held throughout the year—the Christmas market in early December is noteworthy. (Take bus #44 or 47. ☎08 442 8000; www.skansen.se. Park and zoo open daily June-Aug. 10am-8pm; Sept.-May 10am-5pm. June-Aug. M and W-Su 90kr, Tu 110kr for concerts; Sept. 80kr; Oct.-May 60kr. AmEx/MC/V.)
Stockholm’s smaller performance venues are featured in the What’s On pamphlet, available at the Sweden House tourist office. There are also a number of larger, more widely known performance spots. The stages of the national theater, Dramatiska Teatern, Nybroplan (☎08 667 0680; www.dramaten.se), feature performances of works by August Strindberg and others (60-300kr). Arrive an hour early to snatch up a 35% discount on last-minute tickets. A smaller stage behind the theater focuses on experimental material. The Kulturhuset at Sergels Torg (☎08 508 314 00; www.kulturhuset.se) houses art galleries, performance spaces, and cultural venues often free to the public. It also hosts Lava (☎08 508 314 44; www.lavaland.se; closed in July), a popular hangout with a stage, library, and cafe, that lends itself to poetry readings and other events geared toward a younger set. The Operan, Jakobs Torg 2, stages operas and ballets from late August through mid-June. (☎08 791 4400. Tickets 265-590kr. Student rush tickets available. AmEx/MC/V.) The imposing Konserthuset, Hötorg. 8, hosts the Stockholm Philharmonic and the Nobel Prize ceremony. (☎08 786 0200; www.konserthuset.se. 100-270kr. AmEx/MC/V.) Culture buffs on a budget should sample Stockholm’s Parkteatern (☎08 506 202 99; www.stadsteatern.stockholm.se), a summer-long program of free outdoor theater, dance, and music in city parks. Call Ticnet (☎0771 707 070; www.ticnet.se) for tickets. The world-class Stockholm Jazz Festival (☎08 505 331 70; www.stockholmjazz.com) arrives in mid- to late July. Other festivals include GLBT Stockholm Pride (early Aug.; ☎08 33 59 55; www.stockholmpride.org), the November Stockholm Film Festival, (☎08 677 5000; www.filmfestival.se), and late August’s Strindberg Festival, a celebration of Sweden’s most famous morose playwright.
For a city with lasting summer sunlight, Stockholm knows a thing or two about nightlife. The scene varies by neighborhood, with particular social codes prevailing in each area. The posh Stureplan area in Östermalm (T-bana: Östermalmtorg) and Kungsgatan (T-bana: Hötorget) are where the beautiful people party until 5am. Expect long lines and note that many clubs honor strict guest lists. Across the river, Södermalm’s (T-bana: Mariatorget) nightlife is less glitzy but more accessible and just as popular, with a diverse mix of bars and clubs along Götg. and around Medborgarpl. In the northern part of town, nightlife options line Sveavägen and the Vasastaden area (T-bana: Odenplan or Rådmansg.). Many bars and clubs set age limits as high as 25 to avoid crowds of drunk teenagers, but showing up early may help get you in, regardless of your age. Stockholm is compact enough to walk among all the islands, but night buses cover most of the city. The T-bana is generally safe until closing. Pick up Queer Extra (QX) and the QueerMap for gay nightlife tips.
Stockholm is situated in the center of an archipelago, where the mainland gradually crumbles into the Baltic. The islands in either direction—east toward the Baltic or west toward Lake Mälaren—are a lovely escape from the city. Ferries leave from in front of the Grand Hotel on the Stromkajen docks between Gamla Stan and Skeppsholmen or the Nybrohamnen docks (T-bana: Kungsträdgården). Visit the Excursion Shop in Sweden House for more info.
Vaxholm is accessible by ferry (1hr., late June to late Aug. 2 per hr., 65kr) or bus #670 from T-bana: Tekniska Hogskolan (45min., 1-4 per hr., 20kr). Waxholmsbolaget runs ferries to even the tiniest islands, including Sandhamn, year-round. All ferries depart from Vaxholm. (☎08 679 5830; www.waxholmsbolaget.se. June-Aug. 1 per hr.; Sept.-May 1 per 2hr. 65kr, ages 7-19 40kr, under 7 free. AmEx/MC/V.) Sweden House sells the Båtluffarkort card, good for unlimited Waxholmsbolaget rides. (5-day 300kr; 30-day 700kr.)
The wooded islands of the Stockholm archipelago become less developed as the chain of 24,000 islands coils out into the Baltic Sea. Vaxholm is the de facto capital of the archipelago. Its pristine beaches, Eriksö and Tenö in particular, and 16th-century fortress have spawned pricey waterside cafes, but the rest of the streets still maintain their charm. The tourist office is at Torget 1. (☎08 541 708 00; www.vaxholm.se.) Three hours from Stockholm, Sandhamn is quieter, although the white sands of Trouville Beach have many devotees. The island, with its active nightlife scene, is especially popular among a younger crowd. Hikers can escape from the masses by exploring coastal trails on the Finnhamn group and Tjockö to the north. Ask at Sweden House about hostels. They are usually booked up months in advance, but there are alternatives—the islands are a promising place to exercise the right of public access .
Strömma Kanalbolaget ferries (☎08 587 140 00; www.strommakanalbolaget.com) depart Stockholm from the Stadshusbron docks next to the Stadshuset for Drottningholms Slott (45min.; 1-2 per hr.; round-trip 130kr, plus admission 210kr), and Björkö (July-Aug. 9:30am and 1pm, return 2:45 and 6:15pm; May and Sept. 9:30am, return 2:45pm. 195kr. Guided tour, museum admission, and round-trip ferry 265kr. MC/V.)
Drottningholms Slott (☎08 402 60 00; www.royalcourt.se) was built for the queens of Sweden in the late 17th century and has served as the royal family’s residence since 1981, when they left Kungliga Slottet . The interior and formal Baroque gardens are impressive, but the highlight is the 1766 Court Theater, where the artistic director uses 18th-century sets and stage equipment to mount provocative ballets, operas, and pantomime shows. The colorful Chinese Pavillion was built by King Adolf Fredrick as a surprise birthday present for his queen; how the large pavillion was kept secret enough to maintain the surprise remains a mystery. (Drottningholms Slott open daily May-Aug. 10am-4:30pm; Sept. noon-3:30pm; Sa-Su Oct.-Apr. noon-3:30pm. Palace 90kr, students 35kr; palace and pavillion 110/55kr. Court Theater tickets start at 165kr. Drottningholms Slott English tours daily June-Aug. 1 per 2hr.; Sa-Su Oct.-May noon and 2pm. Court Theater 30min. guided tours 60/40kr. AmEx/MC/V.) The island of Björkö on Lake Mälaren is home to Birka, Sweden’s largest Viking-era settlement, dated to AD 750. Though little remains at the site, amateur excavations and modern Vikings bring the island to life in July and August.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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