Rome Testaccio And Ostiense

Off Rome's central map, Testaccio and Ostiense cater to in-the-know partygoers: locals who've sought out the best clubs and the savvy tourists or students who've sought out the locals. The strip of clubs, restaurants, and lounges surrounding Via di Monte Testaccio begs to be explored, though as the evening rolls on longer lines make it harder to gain admission. The streets closer to the train station tend to have smaller, low-key establishments that stay open late, an option if you don't feel like heavy-duty clubbing.

Conte Staccio, V. di Monte Testaccio 65/b (☎06 57 28 97 12; www.myspace.com/contestaccio), If bumping and grinding to DJ'd music isn't your thing, then you'll probably love Conte Staccio. Live music ranging from indie rock to electro-funk draws a mixed crowd of internationals and not-so-mainstream students and locals. Two rooms—one with a stage, the other with tables for late-night nibbles—give you the option to enjoy the music from afar or rock out up close, though the smallish quarters mean that the huge stereos might blow your ears out before long, regardless of room. Head to the outdoor steps if you need a break from the music, but chances are the crowd outside will be just as packed. B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata towards the river, turn left onto V. Galvani ,and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. Beer €2.50-5. Wine €3-5. Cocktails €6-7. Pasta €8. Open daily 8pm-5am. Restaurant 8pm-3am. Music 11pm-5am. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
Akab, V. di Monte Testaccio 69 (☎06 57 25 05 85; www.akabcave.com), It's hard to tell what's inside and what's out at Akab, where the switch is so subtle that you don't know if your feeling is a cool summer breeze or some powerful A/C. During the summer most of the action starts in the central room, as live bands warm up the crowd and customers load up at the blue-lit bar staffed by buff bartenders. When the DJ starts, head back to room after room of dimly lit lounges and dance halls that, with ramps and flashing lights galore, feel somewhat like a psychedelic amusement park for adults. During the winter, the neon-colored upstairs lounge opens to accommodate the crowds. Though the cover and drinks cost a pretty penny, you'll be paying for one of Testaccio's hottest clubs and crowds. B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata towards the river, turn left onto V. Galvani, and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. Beer €5 on Tu. Electronic on Tu. House on Th. Rock on F. Commercial and house on Sa. Cover €10-20 on F-Sa includes 1 drink. Cocktails and beer €10. Open Tu 11:30pm-4:30am, Th-Sa 11:30pm-4:30am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
Coyote, V. di Monte Testaccio 48/B (☎340 24 45 874; www.coyotebar.it), Cowboys might ride off into the sinking western sun; but night visitors at Coyote will wander home as the sun rises in the east. Get here early to avoid Colosseum-sized lines and an entrance fee to match. Once inside, ascend the curving ramp to a huge outdoor patio where beer flows generously under green and red lights. Once the clock strikes midnight, what started out as a casual cocktail bar becomes a full-fledged disco spinning house, Latin, and Top 40 tunes. The wooden floors give the place an extra bounce as the stereo cranks up and the crowds begin to move. If you're sober enough before leaving, check out the trail of American license plates lining the wall—last time we checked, the eastern seaboard was heavily outweighed by the wild west and the sultry south. New Yorkers, donate a plate, please? B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata toward the river, turn left onto V. Galvani, and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. No food—hit Top Five Cover €10 F-Sa after midnight. Beer and wine €5. Cocktails €8. Open daily 9pm-5am. Bar 9pm-midnight. Disco midnight-5am. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
On the Rox, V. Galvani 54 (☎06 45 49 29 75), The lively crowd that frequents this huge lounge still “rox” out big time, even if the place isn't technically a club. Rustic arches offset by twinkling chandeliers give the place a spunky vibe that matches its nightly mix of students and locals. Pop music plays in the background, but the real buzz comes from conversation and the cheers of customers watching sports on the flatscreen TVs. With great nightly specials, even Tu becomes an ideal day for a night out. B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata toward the river and turn left onto V. Galvani. Pitcher night on M, €10. Buy 1 get 1 free on W. Ladies' night 2-for-1 cocktails on Th. Live music 4 nights per week in the winter. Student special long drinks €5. Happy hour buffet €7. Shots €2.50. Beer €4. Cocktails €6. Food €6-8. Open M-W 6pm-4am, Th-Su 6pm-5am. Happy hour 6-10pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
La Casa della Pace, V. di Monte Testaccio 22 (☎329 54 66 296; www.myspace.com/bigbang), More than a nightlife haven for artsy and intellectual folks, this “House of Peace” holds multicultural events, art exhibitions, and live music performances throughout the year. In the evening, join a truly mixed crowd on any of the floors as live music ranging from reggae to electro-funk plays on the stripped-wood dance floor. Multiple adjoining rooms, including the upstairs gallery space, slowly fill up with beer sippers, conversationalists, performers, and artists. Drop by Friday or Saturday for La Casa's “Big Bang” nights or check online for a schedule of upcoming events. Be sure to try out the mosaic-tiled bathroom, which rivals some of Rome's greatest—bathrooms, that is. B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata towards the river, turn left onto V. Galvani, and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. €7 membership card required to enter; buy at the desk, and reuse for all events. Shots €2.50. Beer €2.50-4. Cocktails €6. Open M-Th 3-10pm, F-Sa 10pm-5am, Su 3-10pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Caruso, V. di Monte Testaccio 36 (☎06 57 45 019; www.carusocafe.com), Move your hips to merengue rather than the same old pop mix. The distinctive orange glow in this club's cluster of dance rooms will warm you up for dancing; cool (though slightly pricey) drinks and strong A/C will cool you down when things get too hot. Plenty of tables and padded chairs sit beside rather random Buddha sculptures, so take this opportunity to lounge next to the big enlightened guy. Live bands take the small stage when the DJ steps down. B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata toward the river, turn left onto V. Galvani, and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. Live and DJ'd Latin music. Cover Su-Th €8; F-Sa €10; includes 1st drink. Beer €6. Cocktails €6-11. Open M-Th 11pm-2am, F-Sa 11pm-4am, Su 11pm-2am. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
Ketumbar, V. di Monte Testaccio 36 (☎06 57 45 019; www.ketumbar.it), Close in proximity but far in style from the rowdier bars and discos that surround it, this upscale lounge serves a fusion of Mediterranean and Japanese cuisine that is matched with well-made cocktails and wine. No need to rub shoulders here—a cavernous interior lit only by hanging votive-candle lamps lets you lounge with your date in relative privacy. Though pricey, sushi-inspired plates like the Tori Kara Rolls (fried chicken, cheese, and special salad) offer the rare finger food that won't leave your hands greasy and will still please your belly. B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata towards the river and turn left onto V. Galvani. Happy hour buffet €8-10. Beer and wine €5. Cocktails €8-10. Primi €8-12; secondi €12-18. Japanese plates €7-34. Open daily 8am-4am. Happy hour 8-10pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
Top Five, V. di Monte Testaccio 46/48 (☎06 57 45 453; www.topfivebar.it), When your stomach starts to growl after a night of clubbing, Top Five will be your top priority. Right beneath the thumping Coyote (see above), this bright American restaurant-bar satisfies late-night pizza cravings (or perhaps early morning breakfast calls). Kick back like a cowpoke beside an old American movie poster while enjoying €2 pizza or panini. Once your stomach is sufficiently lined, it might be time for another drink. At these prices, another stiff one is hard to turn down, even if your liver is begging you to stop. B: Piramide. Walk up V. Marmorata towards the river, turn left onto V. Galvani, and veer left onto V. di Monte Testaccio. Happy hour shots and beer pints €4; cocktails €6. Beer €4-6. Cocktails €8. Food €2-8. Open Tu-Su 8pm-5am. Happy hour 8:30-11pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.