For one week each November, hordes of Thai and farang flood Surin to watch dancing, bejeweled, soccer-playing pachyderms on parade at the Surin Elephant Roundup. The other 51 weeks of the year, Surin remains a rare stop on itineraries, as most travelers press on to the Mekong River. Their loss is your gain. This peaceful town, boasting one of the niftiest night markets around, is a handy jumping-off point for the many small Khmer ruins and traditional villages that dot the surrounding countryside. Only 50km from the Cambodian border, Surin reflects the province’s unique mixture of Lao, Khmer, Thai, and indigenous Suay cultures.
Provincial capital Surin is 452km from Bangkok and easily reachable by bus or train from Bangkok, Khorat, or Ubon Ratchathani. Surin has few English street signs. The main street, Tanasan Road, runs north-south. At its north end is the train station, which faces an elephant statue. Several blocks down Tanasan Rd. from the train station is a traffic circle. Both the post office and the hospital are found on the street to the right of the traffic circle. One block past the traffic circle on Tanasan is the intersection with Krung Sri Nai Road, which alternates between a day market and a night market (beginning at 6pm), transforming part of the road into a walking lane. Tesabarn Sam Road forms the western border of town and crosses the train tracks in the direction of Pirom-Aree’s House. Sanit Nikonrut Road forms the eastern border, which runs from the train tracks past the bus station, and intersects with Krung Sri Nai Rd. to the south. To reach the traffic circle from the bus station, exit to the left, pass the soi with the sign for the Petchkason Hotel, and take the next right. Tanasan Rd. is at the first intersection.
Surin’s accommodations run from the luxurious to the slightly expensive and luxurious. During the Elephant Roundup, rates can soar by 50-100%, and finding a room is nearly impossible. Book as far in advance as possible.
Surin has some of the best Isaan food around, especially at the markets along Krung Sri Nai Rd. (From the train station, walk 1 block past the traffic circle.) At the night market, try hoi tod (fried sea mussels in crispy batter over bean sprouts flavored with sweet-and-sour sauce; 30-40฿); ask around for the “hoi tod lady.” Other Isaan specialties worth a try include lab (chopped meat with sticky rice) and tom sep (Isaan-style soup). Wash it all down with one of the many different juices or smoothies (20-30฿). If markets aren’t your scene, try some of the other restaurants and cafes around town.
Surin’s must-see event is the Elephant Roundup, which is usually held during the 3rd weekend in November (check with TAT for exact dates). The stars of this festival honoring Thailand’s national animal are the 200 pachyderms who awe audiences with feats of strength and skill. Highlights include a battle reenactment, a staged “elephant hunt” exhibiting traditional Suay techniques, and a tug-of-war between man and beast. The finale features a soccer match. Tickets (100-500฿) can be bought in advance from City Hall or at the gate if tickets remain.
Silk Weaving Villages. The landscape surrounding Surin is dotted with rural villages still dedicated to the traditional practice of weaving silk. A few villages that are particularly esteemed for their high-quality silk production— Ban Chan Rom, Ban Sawai, and Ban Khaosinarin —have become well-known tourist destinations. Every visit is slightly different depending on the cycle of the silk worms, so consider yourself lucky if you catch the stage when the silk is being spun from the cocoon. Anyone can visit, but the communication barrier and wary villagers make learning about the silk making process difficult for the average traveler. Luckily, Mr. Pirom (of Pirom-Aree’s House, see above) can act as a go-between. (To visit the villages solo, take a songthaew from the bus station, or walk toward the train station on Tanasan Rd. After the traffic circle, enter the 2nd alley on the left. From here, trucks (about every hr. 7-9am, 25฿) bring visitors the 20km. Return early to avoid a wait or an overnight stay in the village.)
Khmer Ruins. Surin is also famous for its proximity to the oldest Khmer sanctuary in Thailand. As in the case with the silk weaving villages, there are a number of different spots in the Surin area to visit some spectacular ruins. A pre-arranged tour is a great way to take in these sites and learn some information about the area. Prasat Ban Phiai, Prasat Ban Phluang, and Prasat Sikhoraphum are all in the vicinity of Surin but generally require a private vehicle to visit.
Other Sights. Mr. Pirom’s tours also venture to places like Ban Ta Klang, a Suay village 60km north of Surin featuring elephants that are trained and kept as pets. An elephant show (Sa 9-11am, 200฿) is held at the Elephant Education Center. Contact the Surin Elephant Village (☎019 665 284) for more information. ( To reach Ban Ta Klang solo, catch a songthaew from beside the infomation window at the bus station, every 40min 7am-5pm, 50฿. Alternatively, take a Roi Et-bound bus until Km 36. Make sure you tell the bus driver your destination before boarding. There are 2 bus routes to Roi Et: one drops you off close to the village; the other requires you to transfer to a songthaew or, although Let’s Go doesn’t recommend it, hitchhike 22km along the road to the left.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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