Taumarunui Overview

When Chief Pikikotaku fell ill here about two centuries ago and commanded his men to construct a cover over his bed, the town of Taumarunui (“place of shelter”) was christened. If only travelers could command the same attention as they wander the underdeveloped town. Despite its shortcomings, Taumaranui (pop. 4500), situated at the confluence of the Ongarue and Whanganui Rivers and the junction of SH4 and SH43, is one of the starting points for the Forgotten World Highway and a Whanganui River Journey that begins just south of the municipality.

Transportation. TranzScenic heads to Auckland (4hr., 1 per day, $36-80) and Wellington (6hr., 1 per day, $49-98). InterCity also runs to Auckland (4hr., M-F and Su, $37-50) and Wellington (6hr., M-F and Su, $72). Taumarunui Taxis (☎895 5444) will help you get around town. Though Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking, most hitchers try the area by the Hakiaha St. railyards, past the former Main Trunk Cafe. Toward Te Kuiti, thumbers go from Ongarue River Rd. (SH4).

Orientation And Practical Information. Taumarunui sits along the Main Trunk Railway at the junction of SH43 and SH4 (called Hakiaha Street within the town limits). The Taumarunui i-Site is located in the railway station on Hakiaha St. (☎895 7494; www.ruapehu.tourism.co.nz. Open M-F 9am-4:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm. Internet $5 per hr.) Take a nature walk through Cherry Grove to get to the DOC field centre. (☎895 8201. Open M-F 8am-5pm.) Other services include: banks with ATMs (open M-F 9am-4:30pm) on Hakiaha St.; a pharmacy, 93 Hakiaha St. (☎895 7326; open M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa 9:30am-12:30pm); the police (☎895 8119), on Hakiaha St.; Taumarunui Hospital (☎896 0020), on Kururau Rd. (SH43), just west of town toward Stratford; Internet access at the library in the center of town ($3 per 15min.; open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa 10am-1pm) or at the i-Site ($2 per 20min.); the post office, 47-49 Miriama St. (☎895 8149; open M-F 9am-5pm).

Accommodations And Food. While Taumarunui’s glaring lack of budget accommodations will have you yearning for anything with four walls and a ceiling, Taumarunui Holiday Park 1, 4km south of town on the Whanganui River, is an option. Activities include fishing, swimming, and kayaking. (☎895 9345 or 0800 473281; www.taumarunuiholidaypark.co.nz. Kayaks $45 per half-day. Linen $3. Tent sites $10, powered $11. 2-person cabins $35; tourist flats $55, $12 per extra person. MC/V.)

Though quality dining establishments are scarce, Ruddies Cafe 2, on Hakiaha St. across from the library, stands out. Contemplate local artists’ paintings as you enjoy huge breakfasts, panini, salmon, and kumara fishcakes ($7.50 each). (☎896 7442. Open M-Tu 8:30am-4pm, W-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-4pm. Cash only.) Rivers II Cafe 2, 43 Hakiaha St., has French toast with bacon ($12) and stellar $6-7 roast beef sandwiches. (☎895 5822. Open M-Th 8am-5pm, F-Su 7am-5pm. Cash only.) Stock up at New World supermarket, at the northern end of Hakiaha St., the only major supermarket in the area. (Open daily 8am-7pm.)

Sights And Outdoor Activities. Most people who visit Taumarunui use the town as a stopover before their trip down the Whanganui River . Taumarunui’s sights alone are not be worth a prolonged stay. Those lucky enough to have their own wheels can get a taste of the backcountry by traversing the Forgotten World Highway, a 155km stretch of SH43 connecting Taumarunui to Stratford. Established in 1990 to introduce travelers to the region’s history, the mostly paved road winds through historic towns, farmland, and scenic reserves. After negotiating switchbacks and hairpin turns, drivers are rewarded with saddletop views of Mt. Ruapehu and Mt. Taranaki on clear days. Highlights include the Tangarakau Gorge, a 1920s wooden truss tunnel called the Hobbits Hole, and Whangamomona Village, whose proud residents declared their independence from New Zealand in 1988 (see The Other 2005 Election). Seventy-three kilometers from Taumarunui, an 18km gravel road off the highway leads to Mount Damper Falls. Plunging 85m into a horseshoe-shaped papa bluff, the falls is one of North Island’s highest and is best seen after heavy rains. The lookout is a 20min. walk from the parking lot. Despite its being only 155km, plan 2-3hr. for the drive, without stops. There is no gas along the route, so it’s best to fill up in Taumarunui or Stratford.