The “walking capital of the world,” Te Anau (tee-uh-NOW; pop. 4000) draws countless trampers each year. A compromise between the secluded expanse of Fiordland and the commercial buzz of Queenstown, the town is a slow-paced base for forays into the wilderness. The scenery is enough recommendation: beyond the glacial calm of Lake Te Anau, green mountain ranges soar to alpine heights and beckon newcomers to experience the terrain that put New Zealand on the map.
The short main drag of the town center is called Town Centre and runs perpendicular to the lake and Lake Front Drive. The Southern Scenic Route (SH95) runs west beyond the DOC office (left as you face the water) toward Manapouri (20km), while SH94 runs inland east toward Mossburn. The Milford Road branches off from Town Centre and away from the lake to Milford Sound (120km). Shops are concentrated on Town Centre, while booking agencies are largely on Lakefront Dr.
In summer, be prepared to either book ahead or face paying outside of your price range. For those with transportation, bunking in Manapouri is an bad option. In winter, call ahead as many hostels close for the season.
All dining options in Te Anau are within a 5min. walk of Town Centre, and virtually all nightlife options are 200km away in Queenstown. The sleek Fiordland Cinema, 7 The Lane, provides an upscale moviegoing experience, showing mostly independent films and the occasional blockbuster. (☎249 8844; www.fiordlandcinema.co.nz. $15, students and seniors $12.) For groceries and freeze-dried tramping food, head next door to Supervalue, 1 The Lane. (Open daily 8am-8pm.)
As epicenter of activity planning for Fiordland National Park, Te Anau has infinite options for getting in touch with nature. Though most can be booked through Te Anau and most companies tend to headquarter in town, the coverage in this chapter has been split to help clarify things. For trips in Manapouri and Doubtful Sound, for trips to the Milford Road and Milford Sound,
Walks And Tramps. A starting point for three of New Zealand’s Great Walks and a gateway to the Fiordland wilderness, Te Anau could entertain outdoor enthusiasts for months. Detailed coverage of the following Fiordland multi-day tramps can be found elsewhere in the book: Dusky Track on, Greenstone and Caples Tracks on, Kepler Track on, Milford Track on, and the Routeburn Track on. A popular daytrip hike is the Mt. Luxmoore Track (8-10hr. round-trip), which travels part of the Kepler Track. Accessible by walking from the DOC office around the lake or by taking a shuttle with Tracknet (☎249 7777; $6, with pickup from swing bridge $9), this track offers fabulous lake and mountain views and sore legs at the day’s end. Check at the DOC office for a Mt. Luxmoore Hut weather forecast. Kepler Water Taxi (see Kepler Track) offers transportation to Brod Bay for Mt. Luxmoore trekkers as well ($20 one-way). Pick up an infosheet on Te Anau walks at the DOC office. Upland Journeys (☎0800 486 774; www.upland.co.nz), offers a variety of one-day guided hikes in Fiordland National Park, through many less-touristed trails ($200 per person per day for 2 people, $100 for 4 people). Real Journeys (see Booking Offices) offers one-day guided walks on the Milford Track, including boat connections (from $150). HikeSouth (☎226 6739; www.hikesouth.com) organizes multi-day guided walks of the full great walks in the area and other long treks in Southland (Milford Track from $1590; Routeburn from $950).
Water Activities. Te Anau’s name comes from the Te Ana-au (Maori for “caves of rushing water”) Glowworm Caves. Limestone walls worn away by 15,000 years of running waters have formed impressive caverns housing a glowworm grotto. Real Journeys runs to the cave up to seven times daily. (2hr. $54, children $15.). The scenic surroundings of Lake Te Anau make for fun times without the glowing fly larvae poo. Cruise Te Anau (☎249 7593; www.cruiseteanau.co.nz), on the pier next to Real Journeys, offers 2hr. cruises aboard the Carousel to the lake’s South Fjord, which include an easy walk to the hidden lakes area. Trout fishing and hunting trips are also available. (Tours $67 per person; trout fishing from $125 per hr.) Luxmore Jet (☎0800 253 826; www.luxmorejet.co.nz) offers 1hr. rides along the Waiau River, which connects Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri. They also offer fly and boat combinations with Wings and Water and Southern Lakes Helicopters (1hr. trip $85, children $40; combos from $205). Fiordland Wilderness Experiences (see gear rentals, above) rents kayaks for use in the lake.
Airborne Activities. Sometimes the best way to experience New Zealand’s largest national park is by seeing all of it at once from the air, just like Peter Jackson. Southern Lakes Helicopters (☎249 7167 or 0508 249 7167; www.southernlakeshelicopters.co.nz), offers flyovers of the area, with the ability to land at some of the least accessible locations in Fiordland. (25min. “Scenic Te Anau” $170 per person, 1hr. Doubtful Sound $470 per person. Other trips including heli-hiking from Mt. Luxmoore available.) Wings and Water, also on the waterfront, runs floatplane flights including a 10min. flyover of Lake Te Anau for only $75 per person. (☎249 7405; wingsandwater@xtra.co.nz. 20min. Kepler Track Overfly $175, 40min. Doubtful Sound Overfly $265. Minimum numbers apply. Charters available.) Air Fiordland (☎249 7505 or 0800 107 505; www.airfiordland.co.nz) offers several superb scenic flight options (from $250) as well. For a 20min. scenic flight with excellent door-to-ground service, call Skydive Fiordland (☎0800 746 754; www.simplifly.co.nz), whose sunset jumps are unique. (9000 ft. $245; 12500 ft. $295.)
Grounded Activities. High Ride (☎0800 822 882 or 249 8591; www.highride.co.nz), located 17km out of town toward Mossburn, runs horse treks (3-3hr., $80) through surrounding farmland and river valley and 4WD ATV tours of the Danby Hills east of Te Anau. (3hr.; 9:30am, 2pm, in summer also 6pm; $145. Pickup from Te Anau included.) Westray Horse Treks (☎0800 148 735 or 249 9079; www.fiordlandhorsetreks.com), also toward Mossburn, offers cheaper but shorter trips. (1-2hr., $60. Trips daily at 9:30am and 2pm. Bookings essential.)
Other Activities. Walk along the shore away from town (15min.) and past the DOC office to reach the Wildlife Centre, home to some of the earth’s rarest birds. The perilously endangered takahe is the center’s hallmark, and is well worth seeing. The Murchison Mountains, one of the few remaining natural habitats for the birds, loom in the background. (Donations appreciated. Open dawn-dusk.)
Officially opened in 1988 to commemorate New Zealand’s National Parks Centennial, the Kepler Track has become nearly as popular as its historic neighbors, the Milford and Routeburn Tracks. Beginning on the sun-dappled shores of Lake Te Anau, the track climbs Mt. Luxmoore for a breath catching ridge walk before descending through beech and podocarp forests to the shores of Lake Manapouri. With frequent openings, the Kepler remains the most accessible Great Walk, allowing trampers to set out on foot from Te Anau without transport costs.
Control Gates To Brod Bay Campsite. 5.6km, 1hr. From the Control Gates, which regulate the level of Lake Te Anau for the greater glory of hydroelectric power, the track edges into swim-worthy Dock Bay. Farther along, the long beach of Brod Bay has a toilet, several sheltered campsites, unpurified lake water, and the opportunity to start day two by watching the sun rise over Lake Te Anau.
Brod Bay Campsite To Mt. Luxmoore Hut. 8.2km, 3-4hr. From Brod Bay, the track steadily climbs a series of long, gradual switchbacks past limestone bluffs, through a forest of lichen-covered beech trees, before suddenly breaking onto golden alpine tussocks with expansive views. Forty-five minutes farther, Mt. Luxmoore Hut (50 bunks) is a veritable mountain chalet with arguably the best view of any hut in the Great Walks system. The South Arm of Lake Te Anau and the Hidden Lakes twinkle far below, while in the distance loom the Murchison Mountains, the last natural habitat of the takahe. Nearby are the Luxmoore Caves, where two flashlights per person, an intrepid spirit, and a slim waist are requirements for entry. Mt. Luxmoore Hut is a fine dayhike destination and an ideal waiting place for when inclement weather postpones plans for the next stretch.
Mt. Luxmoore Hut to Iris Burn Hut. 14.6km, 5-6hr.Alpine weather shifts are no joke, and if they were the punchline could be fatal; the DOC recommends checking the updated morning forecast at the hut before continuing on. In this exposed alpine section, the track steeply ascends for about an hour until crossing the Luxmoore Saddle, just below the summit of Mt. Luxmoore (1472m). A 10min. scramble brings you to the top for a 360˚ panoramic view of the region, with sweeping terrain unfolding in every direction. The track then descends, but remains above the treeline, to Forest Burn Shelter, the first of two emergency over night only shelters. The path to the second of these shelters, the Hanging Valley Shelter, is a prize in itself; the track follows the crest of several humped ridges. A steep series of switchbacks plunging into the beeches follows a worthwhile lookout (5min. round-trip) over a panorama of hanging valleys. Iris Burn Hut (50 bunks) overlooks a meadow, with serviceable tent sites about 200m away. From the hut, a 1.5km side trip leads to the Iris Burn Waterfall. The area around the hut is frequented by kiwi; light sleepers are awoken by their distinctive hooting.
Iris Burn Hut To Moturau Hut. 16.2km, 5-6hr. Days one and two are quickly forgotten on the easy, pleasant stretch from Iris Burn Hut to the Control Gates. The track briefly ascends past the hut, before opening into the Big Slip, a testament to the erosive powers of water: the mountains are literally falling down. Back in the intact forest, the track provides a reasonably level walk to Moturau Hut (40 bunks) by the shores of Lake Manapouri, which features a large communal area, a spiral staircase, and great sunsets. Trampers who complete the walk in three days often get an early start from Iris Burn and bypass Moturau by lunchtime en route to the afternoon Tracknet Shuttle from Rainbow Reach.
Moturau Hut To Rainbow Reach. 6km, 1-2hr. Beyond Moturau Hut lies the turn-off to Shallow Bay Hut (6 bunks), a small, unserviced hut with a toilet and a shore of free camping. Not part of the Great Walks, this hut is cheap ($5). From the turn-off, the Kepler winds through boglands, crosses the Forest Burn River, and then reaches the swing bridge that leads to Rainbow Reach and its shuttles.
Rainbow Reach To The Control Gates. 9.5km, 2hr. This less-traveled but beautiful stretch closes the loop back to the Control Gates. The track lies sandwiched between the fast-flowing Waiau River and Fiordland’s forested border, promising a variety of views and a good chance to fish for trout or see parakeets.
For those traveling to Milford Sound, getting there is half of the experience. From Te Anau to the sound, the 119km Milford Rd. (2hr. without stops and depending on bus traffic) climbs through Fiordland National Park. Pick up a guide to the sights for $1 at the DOC office. In winter, make sure to stop at the DOC office in Te Anau to see if the road is passable or if tire chains are required (chains can be rented from the Te Anau Mobil station; when required, vehicles without them are subject to fines). Te Anau provides the only reliable services for Milford Sound and the Milford Rd. There are no gas stations along the way. Droves of tour bus operators clog the length of the narrow road on their way to and from Milford Sound (see Transportation). To avoid most of the tour bus traffic in the summer, try leaving before 7:30am or after 11am. Most buses return to Te Anau by 5pm. There are 10 DOC campsites, most with pit toilets, picnic tables, fire pits, and fresh water access, along the route ($5 per person; self-register).
Te Anau To Lake Gunn. From Te Anau, the road runs beside Lake Te Anau for 30min. until reaching the wharf at Te Anau Downs, the departure point for the Milford Track. After this last outpost of Te Anau, the road enters the red and silver beech forest of Fiordland National Park. Traversing the glacial U-shaped Eglinton Valley, the road runs through wide expanses of grassland beneath the backdrop of the Earl and Livingstone Ranges. The short walk to Mirror Lakes allows a moment to reflect on one of the DOC’s most clever signs, particularly when the winds are calm. Just up the road in Knob’s Flat, displays on avalanches and native bats occupy the people who didn’t have to use one of the many toilets on site. Lake Gunn, farther down the road, harbors a 45min., wheelchair-accessible walk through the moss-covered glory of the forest. Beaches and fishing spots abound.
The Divide And Hollyford Road. A shelter at The Divide marks the starting point for the Routeburn Track and the Greenstone and Caples Tracks. From here, enter the Routeburn Track trailhead to reach the Key Summit (3hr. round-trip), which makes for a great dayhike with wonderful valley views perfect for those short on time. From the Divide, turn right onto Lower Hollyford Road for 1km to reach the track to Lake Marian (3hr. round-trip), which threads through lush rainforest and past waterfalls to an idyllic picnic spot in a hanging glacial valley. Just 7km farther down the Hollyford Rd. is Gunn’s Camp 1 (gunnscamp@ruralinzone.net), an isolated, quirky campground straight out of the 1930s, with stream-cooled refrigeration, coal-heated showers, and hand-pumped gas. The camp store features a small selection of reasonably priced snacks and drinks, as well as the only concession for Milford teardrop greenstone, a translucent stone that features flecked white “tears” throughout. (Dorms $20; cabins $45 for 2, $10 per extra person up to 6; tent sites $10. Linens $5. Power for charging appliances available. Store open daily 8:30am-8pm. MC/V.)
Farther down Hollyford Rd. is the Hollyford Track (56km, 4 days one-way), which penetrates lowland forest before reaching the sea at Martin’s Bay. The route’s low altitude makes it less scenic than other tracks, but it is one of few hikes in Fiordland accessible year-round. A few hundred meters up from the Hollyford Trailhead is the 30min. side trail to excellent views of the distant Humboldt Falls. Fiordland Tracknet (☎249 7777 or 0800 483 2628) runs to the roadside trailhead from Te Anau (Oct.-May daily; in winter on demand; $42). Both Air Fiordland and Milford Sound Helicopters run flights to Martins Bay and Big Bay at the other end. Call ahead for availability and prices. Huts along the Hollyford cost $10 per night year-round; they have tank water and pit toilets, but no stoves.
Meanwhile, back on the Milford Road, the journey continues past Pop’s View, a lookout named for a bulldozer operator killed in an avalanche, and over Falls Creek, where Christie Falls is visible from the roadside.
Homer Tunnel And Beyond. The final major landmark on the Milford Road is the Homer Tunnel; “completed” in 1953 after decades of work, the rough-hewn tunnel drips disconcertingly on your windshield and still has no internal lighting. Turn on your headlights to navigate the 1km of darkness. Traffic signals control the tunnel 9am-6pm, often causing delays of 15min. or more. A waiting area before the tunnel provides views of the MacPherson Glacier and curious keas. The trail leading to Gertrude Saddle (4hr. round-trip) is just before the tunnel; experience alpine territory, but bring a topo map to help navigate. The stretch of road near the Homer Tunnel is one of the more avalanche-prone pieces of highway on earth—an average of one avalanche per day in winter keeps a full-time clearing crew stationed nearby very busy. On April 1st, the Homer Tunnel Nude Run blocks traffic at night; contestants are allowed only a pair of running shoes and a headlamp, and the female and male winners are awarded a naked Barbie and Ken doll trophy.
After emerging on the other side of the mountain, hairpin turns down Milford Valley—pray not to get stuck behind a bus—lead to the Chasm, where a boardwalk (10min. round-trip) spans the Cleddau River and its surreal, water-hewn rock sculptures. Just beyond the Chasm lies the haunting Milford Sound itself.
 |
 |
 |
 |
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Foursquare
Newsletter
RSS Feed
Overview